Ok I guess it’s disable it for now then as it’s a PITA when driving to notice how far out the mirror is.
Ahh yes but the passenger side mirror dips as it should but would like to keep this. Surely the drivers mirror shouldn’t dip on a UK model at all?
When I superlock the car generally after I have reversed into a space the drivers mirror needs to be adjusted again. It’s almost like it a European one stuck on. However the mirror tilts upwards?
Any ideas?
I do hope you get this fixed. As soon as I know when I am near you I will let you know.
Is this something that we might be able to get from a breakers? Where in France is she, my work takes me to quite a few places?
No closing date if we hit five see if we all want to order one and if not hang out until 10 etc.
If you want removing from the list post back.
Ok so there is atleast one other person whom wants a Nanocomm
5% 5-9
10% 10-14
Doubt we will get any higher.
I will add names below as they show up on here..
All wired and tested working fine.
Please note my original wiring write up above was incorrect (I have now changed it), if you have already started you are going to get weird things with the indicators.
This is a very simple job and could be done for pennies.
Hope it helps and thanks for the assistance again guys.
its around 8-12 amps at 12v. hence why I don’t want it live when the engine isn’t running!
Just been out to get the manuals and the leisure battery is not taking charge, great another thing to fix tomorrow.
Excellent, I am going to tow the caravan to north swindon next weekend as working there for a week. Main thing was reversing lights working, if I can't get the fridge to run on 12v then I can sort that at a later date.
You mention that the White/Orange can carry 30Amp is that switched with ignition, and if it does draw too much would it do any damage to the BECM?
I will check tomorrow but always nice to know in advance.
So wiring would be as this..
Orange/White (Ignition Switched Live) - Power Supply Switched - Red
Pink/Orange (Permanent Live) - Power Supply Steady - Green
Green/Brown (Reversing Lights) - Reverse Light - Yellow
Black (Ground) - Earth Return (For Power Supply Switched) - Black and Earth Return (For Power Supply Steady) - White.
Thanks Gilbertd, I did indicate that I have found that connector thanks for highlighting what the colour codes are for.
I presume if I want to run a live feed via a relay to run the caravan fridge when the engine is running I need to run it from either the battery or the BECM, places online have said that you can run it from a spare point on the BECM and ground it to chassis locally.
Today I set about swapping out the twin 7 pin tow connectors for a single 13 pin one. Obtained the following from Screwfix with nice easy screw terminals and pin outs.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/maypole-mp129-13-pin-european-trailer-board-socket-w-gasket-12v/48923
I have connected up as follows... (Edited to correct mistakes)
As Follows,
13 Pin Number - Colour of LR Wiring Loom - Description of Control - LR wiring in car.
RH Light Cluster Wiring
Pin 1 - Yellow - LH Indicator - Green/Orange
Pin 2 - Blue - Rear Fog - Orange/Yellow
Pin 3 - White - Earth Return - Black
Pin 4 - Green - RH Indicator - Green/Yellow
Pin 5 - Brown - Right Tail Light and Number Plate - Red/Black
Pin 6 - Red - Brake Light - Green/Purple
Pin 7 - Black - Left Tail Lights and Number Plate - Red/White
LH Light Cluster Wiring.
Pin 8 - Yellow (Grey 7 Pin Cable) - Reverse - Green/Brown
PIn 9 - Green (Grey 7 Pin Cable) - Power Supply Steady - White/Orange
Pin 10 - Red (Grey 7 Pin Cable) - Power Supply Switched - Pink/Orange
Pin 11 - Black (Grey 7 Pin Cable) - Earth Return (Contact 10) - Black
PIn 12 - Blue (Grey 7 Pin Cable) - N/C - N/C
Pin 13 - White (Grey 7 Pin Cable) - Earth Return (Contact 9) - Black
Tested and almost all working ok. The reversing lights not working (Edit : Fixed). This turns out that none of the 7 pin connectors are working (Edit :Fixed). On inspection both cables go up the right hand wheel arch! The 7 Pin Aux one should go up the left hand wheel arch behind the CD changer. Both the cables were run and very close to the exhaust so thats not a good idea. I have now re-routed the grey aux cable to the left hand wheel arch and will wire in tomorrow. Annoyingly I cut the grey cable down by 15cm when I fitted it first off. Now its really short but will reach.
Does anyone have a correct wired system? I need to know the following connections in the car, there is a loom with a bare un-used connector with the following. Edit: Thanks Gilbertd
Left Hand rear wheel arch...
Orange/White - Ignition Switched Live
Pink/Orange - Permanent Live
Green/Brown - Reversing Lights
Black - Ground.
RH wheel arch
Green/Orange - Left Hand Indicator
Black - Earth Return
Red/Black - Right Tail Light and Number Plate
Orange/Yellow - Rear Fog
Green/Yellow - Right Hand Indicator
Red/White - Left Tail Light and Number Plate
Green/Purple - Break Light
I am guessing I am going to have to run a feed from the battery to the Red Switched connection if I want to run the fridge in the caravan when towing. (Edit - No you don't need to.)
Ahh I am a numb nut Swap around the propshafts. The sliding part should be nearest the gearbox/transfer box.
I was shooting back out before I updated the thread!
OK an update, today took it back to the garage that did the transfer box and viscous coupling and they kindly swapped both the diffs props around and refitted the balance bell onto the front diff.
This has cleared the problem, I doubt this was just the balance bell as the vibration was severe.
Your props should have the part that slides inside the propshaft towards the centre/gearbox of the car.
Edited to change diffs to props.
Yes that’s a good point!! Hoping I can do it tomorrow but my drive is welly boot muddy. Local garage has no power as our power supply is off tomorrow in the village. So unless it stops raining it might mean a trip out and £10 to a garage outside of town.
Thank Gilbertd I always try to leave as much detail on my posts as possible to aid others in future so thanks for posting that, I had seen the 11:1 phase thing. When I changed the union joints I never dismantled the propshafts so that shouldn't have changed.
Is there any way to tell which bolts go to which holes on either side of the prop or do I have to do each one and test it? Basically it can be fitted in 4 different ways if that makes sense. Does that matter?
Quick update, trawling the web someone found that the front prop was fitted with the part of the prop that slides from the inside was fitted at the front of the car against the diff. Apparently this causes vibration and should be mounted to the transfer box/viscous coupling. This car has been to two independent LR dealers and neither of them have spotted this!
Will swap it round tomorrow if it stop pissing it down and update this thread.
OK, the saga continues.
When driving I get vibration at 45mph this is certainly not normal and goes away at 60mph. This is not really through the steering this is like the chassis is vibrating. I have changed the Transfer box and Viscous coupling today which has fixed the tyre scrub at low speeds but I still have the vibration.
I can't pin point when the vibration started on this car but as you can tell from the list below a lot has been changed.
November 2016 Collected car broke down with a bang on M25
1 New Front Diff Garage Replaced £400
December 2016 loud knocks/bangs from transmission, car feels like stuck in tram rails
2 New Union Joints Front
3 New Union Joints Rear
4 New Front Diff
5 New Rear Diff Fixed knocks and bangs from running gear, Teeth broken on main large cog. £500 odd including tooling.
Vibration felt at speed from around 45mph to 65mph, battery will not take charge
6 New Battery Fixed - £115
Vibration felt at speed and car still jumps around on the motorway likes its stuck in tram rails.
7 New Wheels and Tyres Fixed car jumping lanes on the motorway! £165
Rear Brakes making too much noise
9 New Rear Breaks and Pads Worn through pads, garages should have told me! £85
Car scrubs tyres when doing donuts in car parks :-) and have vibration at speed.
10 New Transfer Box and Viscous Coupling. Fixed car scrubbing tyres.
Update:
Car vibrates at around 45-60mph
11 Swapped around props, now part that slides inside the propshaft is by the gearbox, facing the centre of the car. Fixed vibrations.
OK so my money is on the alignment of the props, yes I didn't mark them before I took them off, I really should have. Do any of you think this could be the issue and as I didn't mark them is there any way to tell other then rotating 45deg each time until I have done all three other positions and road tested each time? Oh and i need to get a vibration damper back on the front diff. Surely it can't just be that!
Thanks again for you help chaps...
List of to do's...
Washer jet replacements
Full service
Blend Motors
Carlos2 wrote:
Going to try Gilbert's suggestion at the weekend but I'm starting to think BECM clean plus a new battery just to make sure. If that doesn't work I'll put it into the garage (gulp!).
Once again I appreciate all the help.
I would be careful putting it into a garage as many don't really know what they are doing either. Get as much advise as you can from on here before you do anything like take it to a garage. Someone on here does replacement BECM's and sends them out with the kit to sync it to your car and keys. You just then return them.
Someone will be along soon to advise.
Rcutler wrote:
I am no expert with P38's I am learning, but how old is your battery. It might start the car and take charge but I have heard of wierd electrical gremlins being fixed by installation of a new battery.
I have heard that they can even push out ok voltages but not be stable and upset the BECM. If Its 4 years old I would put £90 down and order one online. This was recommended to me however I went with Halfords as the car wouldn't start when I was out.
https://www.batterymegastore.co.uk/hankook-mf31-1000.html
While you are there check that your alternator is running ok. It should be putting out around 13-14v when the engine is running.