I tried to fit in the way you did but couldn't get it to go in. I had little other choice in the end. It was a tight fit though.
I'll post a pic up tomorrow...foe the life of me i can't figure out how to upload a photo using the Imgur app or mobile website. I'll have to get on the PC in the morning.
Installed and working :D
Still need an extension for the reverse camera though.
Installed the head unit a little differently to Marty. I cut the box down but instead of sliding it in to the depths of the dash I glued the screen housing to where the lid used to be. This made it one piece again and put all the cable connections at the bottom, accessible through the now open hole where the factory radio was. There's still enough clearance to fit some kind of single DIN storage in there too.
All speakers in all doors are working, not sure if I have the subwoofer - I don't think that worked for a while. Last time I know it worked was when I gave it a bit of a performance test. Possibly blew the amp on it :P I also noticed one of the cones has completely separated from the housing. I tried to take it out but it wouldn't move even with all the screws removed - glued in as well?
Went out today and started playing around with my chopped up aux cable. Ground cable went to the ground pin and the other two I treated as a positive and negative signal...though i now realise that was probably wrong as the aux cable will carry left and right channels rather than a positive and negative of the same channel.
I initially i got nothing.
Then I got music.
Then I realised that I still had sound with only of the two input wires connected. Then i found that with both input wires connected the music was quieter and I LOST some elements of the song. Some tracks I lost vocals, others I lost parts of the music. I guess it was dropping either the left or right track of the audio source when both wires were connected. Possibly as I was connecting two positive wires?
Then, strangest of all, the radio started working! No idea why, I hadn't changed anything.
Either way, this allowed me to confirm that all of my amps work. I didn't seem to have any bass in my front doors anymore so I need to look at the connections there.
At this point I charged ahead and started the rest of the install. Running the wiring for the reverse camera (pain in the arse getting it through the rubber conduit at the top of the tailgate, the cable is also too short and stops next to the passenger seat :( ), running extra speaker cables to the dashboard and pulling the dashboard panel out to cut up.
Yeah, I realised i could use the speakers in the car shortly after posting. I also realised I don't need to go out and buy a 3.5mm socket that has bare wire on the other end...i can just cut the end off an aux cable...
So that's my plan for tomorrow. Aux cable in to ipod, wires at the other end in to the door amp input pins, power up the radio so the remote turn on fires up and see what happens.
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The DSP option disappeared when the amp died. Still not there now.
I'll have to get hold of a 3.5mm socket to test with and a small speaker.
Oh, if it helps...after I did the wiring yesterday fuse 15 blew and my central locking stopped working. Related?
I have permanent 12V, switched 12V and ground at all door amps.
Dashboard end is all stock so far, not messing with that until I get the amps themselves working - so there's no attenuators installed etc. Just the regular radio.
I've checked my connections and as far as I can tell they're all making a connection. I went with crimp connectors rather than soldering as A) my soldering skills leave a lot to be desired, B) I expected to have gotten something wrong that will need changing and C) we have several inches of snow and I'm working outside - crimping was quicker and easier.
Here's some photos of what I've done so far. My work is a lot less professional looking than yours Marty :P
Amp board showing part numbers and intended location (LHR etc)👍
Birds nest of cables and crimps:
Each door amp connector. For the most part these are wired with the colours from RAVE for each connector - some of these colours are different to the corresponding pin in the DSP connector. One or two the wires doesn't match either the RAVE diagram or the corresponding DSP wire as some of the wires I ordered didn't actually arrive, I had to use what I had spare. I'll include images of the spreadsheet I made showing which door amp pin went to which DSP pin further down. In each of these images pin 1 is to the left - I followed the pin numbering printed on the connector.
LHF connector:
RHF connector:
LHR connector:
RHR connector:
These wires were left over from the DSP connector. I found another spare wire that I missed yesterday, a thin brown one, that isn't shown here:
Here's the snow, although much of it is gone it's still bloody cold out!
DSP wiring:
LHF wiring:
RHF wiring:
LHR wiring:
RHR wiring:
Would that be different to raising the volume with it connected? I tried turning it up and have it several full rotations of the knob.
I had that thought after I posted but couldn't remember if that was so the DSP would work with an aftermarket head unit.
Just wired the door amps in and switched on the factory radio....nothing.
No pops or bangs or static and no music.
Four dead door amps, every single wiring connection not making a good connection or a dead factory head unit?
For the attenuators (http://www.rangerovers.net/rrupgrades/entertainment/headunitadapt.html), can I test them prior to install? Measure resistance at given points etc?
What should I be looking for?
I've done continuity tests but not had a tone from my meter - I think this is normal for resistors though.
When I made them, I twisted the three 120 ohm resistors together and soldered them in that way, rather than as three individual resistors. When joined together the meter measured the resistance across them as around 40 ohm - is this correct?
Merry Christmas all :)
It's not a stainless system but I got one of these earlier in the year: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F262391772282
It fit perfectly with no fiddling needed. They have cheaper options available if your car is older than mine (different requirements for the cats, even cheaper if you don't need cats at all) and cheaper if you join their "trade club" amd buy direct from them instead of ebay.
The packaging on it said Allmakes.
You were typing as I was Marty, missed your reply.
I'll just connect SW1 to the appropriate pin on the ISO block then.
Cheers :)
I found this on the manufacturers website, it's just says connect the 3 head unit cables to the 3 vehicle cables. The GND wire is related to the steering wheel controls.
http://www.eonon.com/car-dvd-blog/post/Basic-Wiring-of-Eonon-Car-DVD.html
The manual that came with the unit is fairly useless, it's more for operating it once installed than actually installing it. It has waiting diagram of sorts but it has the same info as the image I posted.
It does have a reverse camera so I'll need to tap in to the reverse signal.
Thanks Richard :)
Going back to the image of the radio I posted, I think I'm mostly OK with it. The steering wheel controls are confusing me a little.
2 - Connect to the reverse light circuit at the BECM
3 - Connect to handbrake circuit at the BECM
4 - Connect to Pin 6 in the ISO block
5 - Is this ground related to the steering wheel controls or should I just connect this to any convenient grounding point? The ISO power connector does have a ground pin in it already
6 - SW1, for steering wheel controls
7 - SW2, for steering wheel controls
8 - AMP control, don't need to do anything with this as it spurs off the wire in pin 5 of the ISO block which is the remote turn on anyway.
The wiring diagram on Marty's website shows the factory radio only has one steering wheel wire - pin 2 - and no additional ground wire for it. Should I just connect the SW1 wire of the new radio in to pin 2 of the ISO block to connect to the vehicle's steering wheel control wire? I've guessed that wire 5 (GND) might be related to the steering wheel controls as I've seen some systems working with three connections, where different combinations of signals across the three correspond to a specific radio command.
I'm guessing the P38 doesn't work this way and uses a variable signal on the one wire, meaning I'm going to need a steering wheel control adapter?
Ah, ok - sorry, I'd misunderstood what you meant with +/- then.
I've got the parts to make up the attenuators and planned to put them inline with with ISO wiring - is this correct?
Now I'm getting confused with the subwoofer bit. Do you mean take the standard subwoofer wiring that is connected to the factory head unit and attach a phono to speaker wire adapter which will plug in to the green phono on the new head unit?
Like this (but only using one channel on it): http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/accessories/line-output-converters/rockford-fosgate-rfi2sw-speaker-line-to-male-rca-adapter ?
Or like this: http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/accessories/line-output-converters/phonocar-4-196-line-level-converter ?
Sorry, my only experience of car audio has been of plug and play systems.
I noticed in your post on the other forum that you mentioned being unable to source matching colour wires for each connection. I think I've managed to find matching colours for every connection but through a couple of different sources. Which colours were you unable to find? I'll send a link to where I found them.
I've put Mintex pads on every car I've owned (including this one) and never been unhappy with them.
Fairly inexpensive and do a good job.
I know it's outside the realms of your DSP replacement post on the other forums as that is aimed at cars still using the factory radio, but any idea if I can retain the subwoofer using an aftermarket unit?
The one I'm buying has a sub connector like this:
.
Would it just be easier to buy a small aftermarket amp to power the sub than try messing with the wiring to make this work?
I don't think my mind is set up for wiring diagrams and circuits...
Martyuk wrote:
You'll need to join the +ve, -ve, and 'wake up' wires together from each amp into the one wire that's in the loadspace.
I'm reading this as there being only a single wire in the DSP plug that serves a positive and negative signal as well providing a remote turn on signal. Is that right?
I'm looking at the chart from your website and can see that there is an individual wire for remote turn on (pin 10) and four wires for audio input signals coming out of the radio - FR+ (pin 9), FR- (pin 17), FL+ (pin 38) and FL- (pin 30).
I can split the remote turn on four ways but can't I use the four audio signal wires to serve the two front door amps rather than joining any of them together?
And yes, I'll need to run additional wires to the head unit for rear signals.
Will I need to do anything with the sub?