No leaks Morat she can sit for weeks at a time without sinking, It "levels" to that!!

The EAS diagnostics wouldn't idle when the original relay was fitted..

My issue is it sits like this with the timer relay in.....

Bloody air suspension, could swear the coils on my D2 were softer comfier and never sagged to one side even with shit shocks.

As far as being a tad more clever than the designer i'd disagree, just trying to make it look a little less comical, replacing the relay only results it sagging on one side when loaded up..
Ahhh!!

An oddity of this P38 is things keep changing...........

The Heights are all over the shop..

This is "standard" which to me looks like Motorway

And Motorway looks like Access.

Wade mode looks ok..

The odd thing also is the default setting for when i start her is Wade mode, and i have to drop her down to standard manually..
Oh and she isn't self levelling when there is someone in the passenger seat so she's on the piss when parked..

Especially noticeable when at a petrol station..

You can get 3 fingers between the arch and tyre on one side, and an entire leg the other side!!!!!

My EAS cable won't connect..

And i've replaced the EAS timer relay with a a standard 4 pin relay to help stop it self levelling when you turn her off.

otherwise it looks almost comical..

bastard thing.

Good evening gents..

Just was looking around my P38 and i've tried to ignore the scratched and dented bumpers since i bought it..

However now i find myself contemplating respraying them MC blue to match the bodywork

The issue is, only certain colours suit the body coloured bumpers, atleast IMO

what do ya'll think?

New Steering damper fitted..

Old was was dead upon removal of the old drag link..

The Blue ones are comfort biased..

And besides..

The old ones hadn't fared too well..

The new ones haven't made any detrimental effects to the ride, as far as i can tell...

Java.

Ahhh!!!!!

David..

I had that trouble, I used a MC blue from Ebay which was a completely different colour from the body of the car! second time around i used black for mine "java" IIRC less to go wrong with black!

Reason being the little stickers that denote the colour on rattle cans is Seldom correct..

Ashington autospares in Northumberland are a superb source for paint both custom and factory..

Covid social distancing might prohibit, unless you can order over the phone..

Dunno..

It looks alright to be..

Defo better than before!

I'd do them Marty..

Might not be for a few months though, as i working my arse off myself at the moment!

PM incoming

Thanks Richard..

The sealant seems to have done the Job

Oh yes definitely..

A small amount goes a long way..

You'll note the first coat looks like it hasn't done much, but it is the basis for the others and after a few coats it looks great, i used around 1/4 of a pot on my wheel, and it was one of the bad'uns!!

you'll could do 4 at a stretch!

Aye i'd agree there I saw a lovely green P38 today which was nice apart from the grill!!

The paint thins out when hot and lessens the possibility of orange peel and splatter ;)

Nice Job!

That 4.6 is gonna be a stormer i bet!

My 4.6's get up and go has got up and left LOL

love the VSE can't wait to see it going under its own power!

I'm sure you'll end up with a great result..

Throwing the cans into some scalding hot water before painting can help the paint be more cooperative.

H

dhallworth wrote:

That's really, really nice! Well done mate!

Have you got a link to the leather dye and varnish that you used?

David.

Thanks David.

Finish is quite good!!

Here is the dye..

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/slredirect/picassoRedirect.html/ref=pa_sp_atf_aps_sr_pg1_1?ie=UTF8&adId=A01713673BC2EIEPREOSW&url=%2FTRG-Easy-Dye-128-Orange%2Fdp%2FB00HF5Z9K4%2Fref%3Dsr_1_1_sspa%3Fcrid%3DXGF0A243DSCR%26dchild%3D1%26keywords%3Dtrg%2Beasy%2Bdye%26qid%3D1590443143%26sprefix%3DTRG%2B%252Caps%252C196%26sr%3D8-1-spons%26psc%3D1&qualifier=1590443143&id=4850827858825533&widgetName=sp_atf

I used "cream"

I SHOULD ALSO NOTE THE DYE HAS TO BE SEALED!!

for that i used this......

https://www.amazon.co.uk/resistant-waterproof-Suitable-interiors-furniture/dp/B07JL68XW5/ref=sr_1_7?crid=1IIQKSOJFTE45&dchild=1&keywords=leather+sealant&qid=1590443201&sprefix=leather+seal%2Caps%2C177&sr=8-7

The varnish was a Rustins Mahogany..

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rustins-POGM250-250ml-Poly-Varnish/dp/B001GU8A96/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=rustins+mahogany+wood+varnish&qid=1590443269&sr=8-4

Cheers.

Cheers!!

The finale!

In any case the varnish on the wood might be ok, but in my particular case the varnish had gone milky and was missing in areas..

The colour i found closest to factory is Rustins Mahogany.

1) - Sanding the old varnish to a key is essential, it also levels the surface, this is again a necessity, as with sanding the leather!!
I used a 240 grit

2) I'm assuming the PO was a Gimp and wore skin tight leather suits with spiky rings, as there was a wear mark in the varnish which matched perfectly to a spiky ring, fetishes aside. you have to level the varnish to any damage otherwise the finish will look shit...
No other way of putting it..

3) Paint on the coats thinly, again don't go lobbing loads on as it'll run and look crap, if done properly you won't need to sand/polish it..

The finished result is after 5 coats, use a quality brush otherwise you'll be picking off stray hairs, which isn't good..

Patience is key..

A quick before and after...

After.

If a numpty like me can do it, anyone can!!

i'd call that a result!!

"small edit"

The leather on the wheel which is freshly dyed has to be sealed, if not done the leather will go mank very quickly!

Wait 24hrs after dying before sealing.

The masking tape is now removed.

The finish is quite good, i have to varnish the wood next!!

The brakes on the Series properly maintained aren't too bad..

Atleast IMO

That reducer looks well "bling" blends in well!!

Can't wait to see a V8 in that space.