Doesn't do it all the time. Might be 4 or 5 times a week, but sometimes I get a surging like idle.
You can hear it surging a little and the rev counter is gently twitching up and then back down to normal. It seems to be adding about 30rpm. I thought lpg mix to start with but then I checked the petrol and it still seemed to do it. Might the IAC valve be the culprit?
done.
Got myself a new headlining!!!
Before anyone says anything, i'm not responsible for that snakes wedding of wires. I inherited that and i'll sort it when I redo the rear entertainment. If anyone requires a vcr or a sat nav unit, you're very welcome to them.
There were a few dings in the board itself. Looked like someone had maybe rammed something in through the boot in a previous life. Bit of fibre glass and sanding did the job.
I'll put a picture of the finished article up later. Sunroof shade looks good though.
It'll go towards your boot badge. :-)
50p says you'll be ringing Marty for a new one.
Lol. That's proper A-Team thinking.
"I love it when a plan comes together"
I wonder why there's even the option to disable the EKA.
Yey result!
Would this process not have worked if the EKA wasn't disabled in your BeCM?
So if the above is correct, you can bypass all of the alarm system and messing about with the EKA just by grounding out a wire?
Since Gilberts car isn't going anywhere fast, he'd be the perfect candidate to try Orangebean's web findings.
Hmmm.
I've had trouble in the past with fuse 17 blowing and getting both abs and traction failure. I thought i'd traced that down to some dodgy wiring that the previous owner had done with regard to the rear entertainment stuff.
I'll have a look at the connector on the BeCM.
traction failure sometimes goes along with ABS failure doesn't it which is fuse 17? So if it's an earth, it'll be on the fuse 17 circuit?
Would it be worth pulling the abs sensors and giving them a blast with some contact cleaner?
What's "traction failure" and what causes the message?
I've had it happen to me a handful of times since I've owned the car. The only thing that's noticeable when I get the message is that it resets my radio code. Next time you start the engine the message has cleared. I get no other side effects.
I can't replicate the circumstances. Could it be a dodgy ground somewhere?
hell fire!
As long as you're still in one piece though.
Rad weld required or is it beyond that point?
Gilbertd wrote:
super4 wrote:
do you think EAS v4 it can do things like reset idle of the TPS ?
The blurb clearly states that it can reset adaptive fuel values so if it can't reset the TPS, I'd ask for my money back. TPS idle voltage is one of the adaptive values along with long and short term fuel trims.
Why not just email them Super4. Put the speculation to bed!
I dont think yiur engine is thor so i dunno how relevant this will be.
I had idle problems months ago. It was a combination.of the cruise control cable not being set right (which was holding the butterfly open a fraction at idle) and a build up of sticky dirt in the butterfly itself.
It had been like that a while and the engine had adapted to the fact that the butterfly was never fully closed. I sorted it, ran it for a day or so and it reset and ran fine.
Yep. New Bearmach drive flange went on with the first seal.
I've not read up on my question so i'll just ask.
Can't you use any Rangerover keyfob and recode it to your vehicle using a Nanocom?
Tied was out this morning and the beach looked great. I was so tempted to get down on the sand and take some shots. I then thought better of it as I once got a transit van stuck on the beach. Would never live it down if I got the Range Rover stuck and the tied came in. Although, a picture of my car wing mirror deep in water would probably top trump anyone else's' picture. lol.
I like your wheels GeorgeB
Although i'm on with the leaking diff on my other topic, in the interest of keeping things tidy, i'll post this in here where I originally asked about it.
What colour is this? I know it's hard to tell from a picture, but would you says it's red (gearbox) or black (engine) oil?
On page 1, Gilbert suggested that the leak could be gearbox front seal if it's red or engine rear seal if it's black.