no mate. nothing like that. just the bonnet sometimes bounces a bit like it's struggling to settle on a height. I'm gonna get out and find a flat spot in a bit and get the sensor heights as Gilbert said.

As I've previously professed, I am not a car fixer man, so don't take the mick that I dunno what stuffs called. However, if I think I can fix something, I'll have a good go.

I've been for an underbody steam clean this afternoon (the car, not me!) so I could hopefully trace the oil leaks.

Firstly, there's this round thing. What's it do and how do I stop it leaking? I imagine there's some sort of gasket in it? There's a couple of little leaks on the mating surface too which I assume would be a gearbox out job to fix? I've circled them all in red in case anyone has a dicky monitor.

The second one looks like it's gonna be a right nuisance. I bet loadsa stuff has to come off to fit a 50p part. Again I've circled around it in red. This is at the front of the engine, looking up from underneath. Oil had been dripping down and under which led me to think it might be the sump gasket. That's all dry now so the root of the problem is here.

Thanks

Nah definitely compressor. When I go to switch engine off, sometimes it's running and switches off a split second after.

Could a faulty pressure switch cause the same symptoms? I'd guess that if it wasn't closing or reporting pressure, then the compressor would be told to run? I saw a video about checking pins for the pressure switch to see if it's open or closed.

I noticed that the front left was below the rest.

I put it down to unlevel ground. I'll get it level later and read them again.

When I'm at traffic lights with my foot on the brake, the compressor can be heard running. 9 times out of 10, as soon as I take my foot of the brake it stops. Too often to be a coincidence I would think.

Got all that gear from the last time we did the fault dance.

No faults listed.

Any chance Relay 20 could be to blame?

Got an issue with the compressor playing away to itself most of the time still.

Every time I start the car, the ride height flashes for a couple of secs and the orange "going up" symbol comes on the dash as though to say it's going up but the car actually never moves anywhere.

Compressor kicks in and out all the time and at traffic lights with foot on the break, sometimes you can see a little dance up and down of the front end if you watch the bonnet.

Yesterday I parked up and as I got out, I noticed that the back was higher than the front by a good 2 inches or so. looking at the distance between the wheel and the arch.

I'm wondering if it's a faulty height sensor at the front?????? How do you check these?

I don't lose any air when parked up and I'm fairly confident that's it's air tight. Block and compressor were rebuilt. about 6 weeks back.

I recall that when Morat put his Nanocom on it, the EAS reported an "unknown fault"

Any ideas?

Thanks

If you're interested, I also got these

I put 2 of these on when I did my top end.

No problems and decent quality. Look same as the Landrover ones I took off.

Thanks a lot fellas. 30quid fix it is then

Asking for the father-in-law

He has a hot start problem on his 2.5 diesel.

Starts no problem on a morning. Can drive a mile or so to the shops, come back out and it'll start again no problem. If he drives much further and the engine gets any hotter, when he goes to start it again, it takes anywhere between 5 and 10 seconds to fire up.

He's asking me cause clearly he thinks as we both have p38's, that I would know. lol.

He says he's looked it up and it's something to do with the injector pump and it's going to be anywhere between £700 and £1500 for a new one. He then presents me with a potential fix from the other forum regarding this kit.

He says he's happy to bodge it with the kit as he doesn't do many miles at all, which he doesn't. I'm not sure why he even has a car.

Will this work or is there another solution?

Thanks

yeah seen it. it seems one of the better conversions. lines look ok. Bodywork is tidy for the age. I imagine a bit of it has been repainted when they did the conversion.

it's also a diesel and has begun to overheat.

I'm still unsure about the side vent mod. I have a pair that I bought ages ago. Not sure it's the right thing to do. End of the day, I have a p38. If I wanted that look, I should probably buy an L322.

No danger of that Gilbert. Did the front oil pinion the other day. More oil on it now than what there was before. God Damon fibre washer. There's always something to do.

lol. pictures of the finished article or of me doing it?

For anyone wanting to know how to get them off........

A trim remover or a really flat wallpaper scraper is a good idea. I bought a trim removal tool for a fiver. The lip of the rubber that sits outside the glass pillar will bend out of shape if you try and pull on it so carefully slide your scraper or trim tool inside. Also, be careful with the whole thing as it's aluminium inside and it'll bend out of shape.

Remove lower external glass trim. 2 screws on inside of door. 1 at each end. Pull up and ease the trim off. It will be wedged down but it will come up. careful though as you might split the rubber.

Next, with the window down, remove the inside window rubber. This rubber sits over the top of the external one and removing it helps a lot so you're not having to really pull and potentially damage anything. Put your trim remover or scraper down inside the lip and push down. Work your way along. I started at the top first. Once I had enough of it off, I could start gently pulling it down by hand. Then once I got to the corner, pulled the sides away and worked my way down to the bottom. The sides will go down inside the top of the door panel an inch or so. Once you're near the bottom, gently pull the rubber up and it will slide out. Careful again with this rubber as it also has aluminium in it that will bend easy.

Now you have that off, you can take the exterior one off. Pretty much the same process. Work your way around and gently pull the sides up out of the door. When you reach the glass, it will be a bit stiffer. With the internal rubber removed though, you'll be able to pull the window to the left or right a bit which will help. Careful at the corners as the aluminium isn't joined. It's just rubber and if you pull too hard it'll tear. Doesn't matter if you're chucking it away, but if you're wanting to keep it, that would ruin your day!

Refitting.

Have a clean of the surface and get rid of any dusty, rusty rubbish. Fit the top first. This way you'll keep everything square and in the right places. When fitting the sides, pull into the centre of the glass to get the rubber down inside the door. Don't bend it to get it in or you'll ruin it. Fit one side first, pushing the window to the opposite side. Then repeat the process on the other side. As you go, make sure the rubbers are pushed firmly home and that they all line up where they are meant to in relation to window edges. A gentle bang with the palm of your hand will sort it and work your way around the whole window.

Once it's in, stick the window up and make sure it's all seated right.

Next, put the window back down and refit the internal rubber using the same methods.

After that, stick the external trim back with the 2 screws, put the window up and job done.

Hope this helps someone!

lmao. 11 posts in and we've just found out there might be a hole in it?

Nice one. Soon be destined for sale then?

He says he's fitted a recon compressor.

possibly one way valves in block? should be enough air in reservoir to lift car without compressor running using eas unlock.

As Gilbert says, stick your finger on and see if it's sucking. Or the other way, stick your finger on the blue pipe and see if it's blowing. Shouldn't be able to keep your finger on it if it's working right.

sorted. Window rubber, heater core temperature sensor, genuine range rover boot liner and bottle jack. £30. Can't argue with them scrapyard prices.