increase to 1.5. Then monitor the injector timings and fuel trims. Worst case scenario you'll need to do a recalibration but at least then it'll be setup correctly. Shouldn't need to pick the reducer type, just alter the pressure.
696 Alveston Red.
you ran diagnostics?
I just had a problem with my EAS. I stripped the block to redo all of the orings. After I did it, whilst driving, the car would just automatically rise up to extended ride height by itself. Refused to come back down usually. I found that it behaved best on motorway mode with the inhibit switch on but it still did it now and then. I was sure I hadn't done anything wrong when rebuilding it but alas I stripped it back down and looked at everything again. Turned out that the metal cap had bust off the new diaphragm I had put in. Put a new one in and that fixed it. Not saying that you have the same problem, but like I say, when mine was going to extended height by itself, it was a knackered diaphragm.
New caliper arrived Monday but just managed to get round to picking it up. Nice shiny gold. Lovely, but that won't do at all. Can't go round with gold calipers. So on with the paint. Hopefully should be a good body colour match.
From this
To This
Gotta do the rest now.
I pulled this picture from Ebay. It's easier to see when it's off the car. In this picture, you would need to rotate the input shaft anti clockwise to get the raised mark lined up with the indent.
With these 2 lined up, your steering wheel should be centered. My wheel was centered but the wheels weren't, which means the drag link is either too long (if wheel is past 12'oclock when driving) or in my case 2 short (wheel was at 11'oclock when driving). I lengthened the drag link by a couple of turns and that sorted it. Tracking may need an ever so slight adjustment but it's not bad at all. Make sure you have the steering lock off before adjusting the drag link :-)
If car has been tracked with an out of centre steering box, then you'll have to centre wheel to box and then have it tracked.
You might find this helpful
A leak at the injector pipe wouldn't cause it not to switch over. Unless it was all leaking out, which you would definitely know about!
had it against the wall to begin with and think I got somewhere near with the roll off but I was planning on taking it round to my MOT man and seeing if he would check them out.
Car was cleaned yesterday. I do it once a week cause the sea air and sand don't keep it nice for long.
on mine, ones like a dot/dimple and the other one is raised up. Pointing towards engine. A torch helped me see.
Sorted.
Sidelights t10 Wedge 13smd
Headlights (look slightly yellow and a bit more fierce in the picture than they actually are. 6000k. 3800lumens per bulb. With adjustable beam)
Couldn't get a picture of main beam as it just blinds the camera. Very impressed though. Like driving home in daylight.
Sorted. Took Gilberts advice with the cheap blow torch approach. I already have one I use for lighting the fire but I didn't expect it would work on the nut as I've usually seen the garage use acetylene. Anyway, 10 minutes heat up and the nuts moving nicely now with a bit of penetrant on it too.
Steering wheel at 12oClock now. Saved £30 on a new draglink.
Black box with an X. I don't have any of them on my car. ;-)
I only surmised at castellated nut as I was watching a video from landrover toolbox about steering etc and one of the nuts was castellated and it had the bit of split pin wire on it.
I put two and two together and guessed it would be the same thing as he's working on his steering.
I had some steering questions the other day. Marty pointed me in the right direction. My problem was the draglink was too short thus pulling the steering wheel to the left. Fixed now.
Martyuk wrote:
Steering wheel - it should be centered (flat) when the steering box is centered (the marker between the indicator bumps on the steering box). your front wheels should then have the tracking set with (from memory as to what Smiler told me) 5-15 minutes of toe-out. (0.6-1.8mm).
Once that is set and the steering box is known to be aligned with the steering wheel, you can then adjust the drag link from the box to the LH hub to make sure the steering box is centralised with the (now aligned) front wheels.
If the steering box isn't centered when the wheels are aligned, then you'll probably end up with it constantly drifitng, or having to apply more than normal steering correction when driving.
You shouldn't just take the steering wheel off and re-align it to center, as it a)won't have had any effect on the alignment, and b) can damage the rotary coupler, as that then won't be centered when the steering wheel is. RAVE specifies that the steering wheel can only be adjusted 1-2 splines MAX - if it's further out than that to the center of steering box etc, then you need to undo the lower steering rod and align THAT to the steering box by centering the steering box, and steering wheel and reconnecting it.
Martyuk wrote:
Assuming the tracking of the front wheels was set correctly by the previous owner - or whoever they took it to to be done, and is within the tolerances specified in the work shop manual, then the issue of the steering wheel center would either be in the connection between the steering box and the LH front wheel on the drag link (as the track rod will be holding the wheels at the correct value, and as the vehicle drives in a straight line, they find their centre point, and the adjustment of the rod to the steering box is a bit short, thus pulling the steering wheel to the left ). Or the steering wheel may at some point have been taken off and turned to line it up center (before the vehicle was re-tracked). Or the steering wheel is centered to the steering box still, and the drag link needs adjusting to get the steering box and wheel back to center.
The easiest way to see whether it's the steering box/wheel or drag link is to stop with the steering wheel centered, and check to see if the steering box is centered. If it is, then with the steering lock off (Ign pos 1) adjust the drag link so the steering wheel is centered.
If the steering box isn't centered when the wheel it, then that alignment is out, and will need to be corrected. once the steering wheel and the steering box line up - then check to make sure the steering box is central when the vehicle's front wheels are centered.
I believe the correct term for that bent wire loop is 'A castellated nut' or 'castle nut'. I may be wrong. Someone will be along to correct me. I think you need a tool to do them.
Lol@download rave. Stock forum response.
Just cause you read the Hadron Collider manual, doesn't mean your able to fix it.
Just spied another MOT Failure on ebay Gilbert. You gonna rescue it? lol
Martyuk wrote:
One thing that makes me wonder... is there a vacuum line from the manifold to the vapouriser?
I.maybbe way off the mark, but I would think that if this isn't connected, then you could end up with the vapouriser not increasing gas supply as it switches over, and especially under load...
When I first took my car to Simon, it was idling like shite on gas. The vacuum line had been disconnected from the manifold and a blanking Tee put in. Not sure why as when Simon refitted it, it all worked well. However the pipe being disconnected didn't stop the Gas switching over in my case, just made it run awful. Worth checking though.
**edit.
Looking at the diagram, the sensor is the one you refer to that is screwed in.
I'm no expert mate so I couldn't help in that way. I'm just agreeing with Gilbert. I just know that the vapouriser get's heat solely from the circulated engine coolant and that if you had a blockage or air lock as Gilbert says, it'll turn off when you switch it to gas. Looking at the pictures, it is sensing the temperature to begin with so I wouldn't be sure it's a failed temperature sensor.
Are you allowing the car to fully get to temperature before attempting to switch to gas?
Is the coolant pipe going to the vapouriser hot?
Is the vapouriser hot?
When the gas temperature drops to -60 is the vapouriser hot?
When the gas temperature drops to -60 is the coolant pipe hot?
What Gilbert said. -60 no good for gas.