For those that use Imgur, I would also add that you can chose the picture size as well (small, square, large thumbnail, etc.) at the bottom of the list on the righthand side. As mentioned also use the direct link. A large square picture is really big. Large thumbnail is OK for this forum.
Strangerover, here is a pic.
I am going to put my bullbars and winch back on and I might change the mirrors to all black, which are more practical.
Just leave a search running on Ebay and you will be E-mailed when some come up.
Thanks for the practical advice guys. I have now stuck wheel arch extensions to one side of the car. One section at a time, inbetween downpours.
The extensions are the factory polyurethane ones, made of the same type of pu foam as the factory bull bars.
Tigerseal is the recommended pu adhesive but only for use professionally. It is nasty stuff and gets everywhere if you are not careful.
It is an isocyanate and cures with moisture.
I think my problem was that the Tigerseal was too runny when I stuck the section on. It is taking 60 to 90 mins to grip so needs clamping from the start.
T-cut is OK for the prep, I think. It cuts through the car wax and grime down to fresh paint surface. It leaves a film however, as mentioned, but it just needs a final wipe or two with solvent. Either rubbing alcohol (isopropyl alcohol) or meths.
Anyway, got the hang of it now. Just the other side to do. The extensions also nicely cover up a couple of areas around the wheel archs where the clear lacquer had flaked off.
I noticed I said Tigerseal cleans up with brake fluid in one of my earlier posts. Don't use brake fluid. I should have said brake cleaner.
Brake cleaner is OK for removing smudges on body panel paintwork.
Started gluing wheel arch extensions on.
Cleaned up the area first with rubbing alcohol, then T-cut the paintwork. I used Tigerseal to glue the polyurethane arches on.
Did the first one, all nicely in place. Came back 5 mins later and it had slid off on the floor, WTF.
Next try, I used clamps all round.Looks OK , then it started to rain!
Will carry on over the next feww days.
Tigerseal cleans up with brake fluid if anyone is interested.
It is not possible to fit fog lights to the auto diesel because the auto box cooler is in the way of the LHS fog light.
However while I was just browsing Ebay, I noticed there is a 2001 Bordeaux diesel auto with fitted fog lights.
Anyone know if there was a factory mod done near the end of the p38 run ?
I have copied and pasted details of the tank I used :
BMW E30 E36 M3 Coolant Expansion Tank 1712641 alt: 17111712641 (17 11 1712641) PARTS-CATALOG
It takes the BMW level switch and the p38 cap, so parts are easy to get but, as mentioned, it doesn't have the bottom spigot needed for the V8.
Genuine BMW tanks are quite dear. Quite a bit more than OEM p38 expansion tanks.
I have done the same. I replaced all mine with stainless self tappers over 10 years ago. I also copied the brackets using some sheet stainless I had.
Never seen stainless captive nuts though. I just used new OEM ones.
The wheel arch protectors shown in Richards post are just glued on. I have just bought some and I am waiting for the UK weather to improve.
Hitched up the trailer for a run down to the recycling center. I was driving around a couple of twisty roundabouts with the trailer on the back and the horn went off full blast when I used the RH indicator. WTF. It did it twice but has not done it since. It was only when I was turning right and only when the RH indicator was on. Nearly a case of road rage. Guy in front lost his cool a bit.
Any theories? Loose connection? ....... unlikely, never heard of it before. Maybe condensation on the switch gear?
Inside of the car is damp. Aircon not worked for yonks. A job on my to do list.
Also bought a set of (used) OEM polyurethane wheel arches on Ebay and just got a tube of Tigerseal to stick them on.
You have got me thinking now Richard. The gearbox pump is powered from the input shaft and, when the engine cut out yesterday, I kept it in D the whole time, so the gearbox would continue to have the input and output shafts connected because the pump would continue to run and the torque converter would still be spinning.
If I had taken it out of D and put it in N while coasting down the hill, there would be no drive through to the engine. The engine would stop turning and the gearbox input shaft would stop. The torque converter and gearbox pump would also stop. Putting it back into D would have no effect. I would have no drive.
It is a chicken and egg situation. The engine needs to be turning over to take up the drive. That is why tow starting won't work.
Am I making sense? Anyone disagree?
Poured about 50L of (virgin) cooking oil into the tank, which I had premixed with a bit of diesel.
Gave the car a wash and decided to give it a run to warm it up and charge the battery.
I had gone about a mile and the engine lost power and cut out. No phone with me! Luckily I was on a by pass road around my village with a long steep hill. I coasted at 40-50 mph in gear (an auto) for about half a mile. It was enough to spin the engine at 1500rpm. Eventually it fired up with a splutter. Phew! It was a cold day and I obviously did not add enough diesel with hindsight. Should have been a 50/50% mix minimum.
No pics for me either. I am in the UK.
update: just used my VPN. disguised my ip as germany ... no pics. Tried it as USA ... still no pics on this site only.
RR.net OK. I can see the pics.
I was running Microcat on my 64 bit Windows 10 pc using VMware running as a virtual XP machine. It worked fine until a recent W10 update disabled it. It said it was incompatible. Rave is fine however. I have all the acrobat .pdf files.
I have heard of it being done, but I have not done it to my diesel. I don't see the point if there is no need for it.
It seems to be done to get around wear in the in tank pump as Marshall8hp says.
For diesel to run back into the tank it must be letting air in surely? Check the fuel filter gaskets/unions as well as the FIP.
Are there any bubbles showing in the clear pipe to the FIP when it has been standing for a bit?
I have got a Volvo V60 and there is no ignition key switch as such. You just need to have the key on you in your pocket.
To start it needs to be in park and also have your foot on the footbrake.
It has an electric handbrake, that I don't like, which is also interlocked with the footbrake.
I was on Ebay UK looking for something else and he is still trading by the looks of it. Trades under the name of V8Performance.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MARK-ADAMS-Tornado-Land-Rover-Defender-Morgan-GEMS-5-0-Litre/180152502152?hash=item29f1ed0788:g:8P4AAOSwQYZW0DWu
Only two sales in the last 6 months and someone recently has not been able to contact him and given negative feedback.
Under the present crisis there may be a good reason for that.
Update. Just had another look at his Ebay score and while he has sold just two items in the past 6 months he has bought 3 items in the past month, so he is alive and kicking.
I have dealt with Emmotts of Colne in the past. A bit nearer for you. Doable in a day if you live in the South of Scotland I would say.
They have been trustworthy for used p38 parts. Google them and give them a ring. They sponsor LandyZone but don't let that put you off. Ha Ha.
I might give them a go as well. They seem to be known as Osram nightbreaker Laser. Can't see any "Ultimate".
https://www.amazon.co.uk/stores/OSRAM/page/F4D6C1DE-F0FB-4E94-8DED-F7679B2D9819?ref_=ast_bln&productGridPageIndex=2
I have got 100 watt bulbs in at the moment, which have been in for years. Got through the MOT without any comments. I should try some of these new generation bulbs. Am I right in assuming the dipping bulbs are H4 and the inboard main beams H1 ?
KCR, the diesel one under the engine comes in 3 parts, 2 side bits and the bottom tray.
bevel or bezel? You mean the plastic surround that fits round the speedo/rev counter in the dash?
They are (or were fitted) to my diesel. One under the engine and another under the gearbox. They do reduce a bit of clatter which I think is the sound reflected off the road back into the car?
Mine are currently off the car. They have been damaged and need patching up. A job on the list. The sound deadening material is also soaked in oil and needs replacing if I can find some suitable sound deadening pads. They are secured by special half turn screws and are still available.