The original heater o-ring is natural rubber and would have been already replaced by this time, so I would guess the one in is probably nitrile rubber by now which last longer.
If you don't know the history, if it were me I would put a new one in. Also change the retaining screw for a stainless allen bolt.
Your Nanocom obviously can't read the boost pressure directly as it is a different engine.
I think I would fit an aftermarket boost gauge to see what the boost is, if you can find a suitable tapping point.
Just a length of plastic tubing and mount the gauge temporarily on the dash.
Is there a waste gate on the turbo? I have got a VNT turbo here that I was going to fit to my M51 engine. I made a boost control system for it.
Car passed it's MOT. No advisories. Stress level down to 3 to 4.
Back home now. Door bell rang and Amazon delivered bottle of whisky (early). Stress level now down to 1 to 2.
Don't know for sure as I have a later model with no dipstick.
I do however have an old dipstick in my shed that at one time I planned on fitting then changed my mind.
There is a screw fitting on the end of the tube that simply unscrews from the block. Not a big job if you do have to unscrew it.
Refitted the front grill. Replaced the roof rails. Changed a bulb in the dash.
Sorted out fully comp insurance and unsorned the car. The car has been sorned for 6 months.
Road tested the car around Cheshire's leafy lanes. MOT booked for tomorrow afternoon.
Stress level up to a 7 or 8 at the moment.
How long the compressor runs, and hence the temperature, depends on the terrain I think.
It should only run when the suspension height increases. That would be coming off a motorway below 35 mph and driving off road when the it is manually switched to off road height. Driving at the same height would use a negligible amount if any. Maybe slight height adjustments for bends in the road. All assuming no leaks in the system and the compressor is working OK.
The rear cross bar could do with a roller fitted to it to get the canoe on and off a bit easier, otherwise it is a two man job.
I cleaned out my roof channels a month or two back. I didn't check the method of construction too close but I was under the impression the channels were stainless steel? and attached to the roof at the factory with welded rivets? anyone know?
The roof leaks are from weld points that have corroded through I guess.
Silicone brake fluid is non hygroscopic, in other words it does not absorb moisture from the air, one of the main reasons for brake failure.
It is used in race cars and can be used in brakes that run at very high temperatures. I don't think you have to change it either.
Disadvantages, as far as I know? Expense. Doesn't mix with normal brake fluid.
Don, glad you got a result. The price isn't over the top really. It includes the cross bars and they have got to be worth £75 at least.
I lost the clips for my cross bars and had to buy a new set for £44 + postage. Soon as I got them, I found my old ones! Typical.
I also had to cut out new neoprene gaskets, and respray them at more expense, so if you add that lot up, yours aren't too bad.
Be careful with the roof channels. The cover slides for the rails are thin aluminium and should slide easily backwards and forwards. Don't force them and I would be careful using a screwdriver on them. One of mine started to bend. Press them down and push horizontally and gently. I have not long cleaned mine up. I used a big scrubbing brush and dishwashing liquid to clean the outside of the roof channel.
When they start to move, work them backwards and forwards and hose inside the channel. Mine was full of leaves and muck. Dry off and use a quick spray of WD40.
There are three mounting points each side for the rails. When you get them you will see how they fit. They expand to grip the roof channel.
The gaskets don't do much. Just finishes off the look and stops rattles I guess.
One more thing, you can leave the rails and cross bars on permanently. Mine are OK in underground car parks, with standard tyres and at standard height.
I don't think they do a canoe fitting as such but the accessory catalogue shows a surf board mount, if you can find one that is, or copy one.
Roof rails and bars are rated for 75kg, which is a fair weight.
There are a set of roof rails and the cross bars on Ebay at the moment. You will have to be quick, it finishes today:
I have got a Landrover badged folding bike that I fitted with a 1000 watt electric motor in the back wheel. It is powered by Dewalt XR batteries.
Does that count?
Morat, that looks exactly like the one I had.
It was many years ago, back in the late '70's actually. Prices were starting to climb but nothing like what they go for now.
If I had my time again, I would buy up old British motorbikes and fill up a shipping container. They went dirt cheap when the Japanese imports started hitting the UK in the late '60's and early '70's. Manx Nortons, BSA Goldstars, Velocettes, not to mention Vincents.
I had a 1949 HRD Vincent Rapide that I left at my parents house when I worked abroad.
My mother said she needed the space and it had to go.
She sold it for peanuts while I was away. It still brings tears to my eyes.
It has been a long time since I measured my current draw after RF problems (since resolved with a mk3 receiver).
I invested in a decent clamp on dc meter and I remember it was 0.63 amps awake and less than 10 milliamps (0.01 amp) when asleep which was exactly after 2 mins. The 10 milliamp reading may be a bit inaccurate because it is at the lower end of the range of the meter but I don't think it is too far out. I did read on one of the forums that earlier BECM's used a bit more current.
Strangerover: your 2001 is about the same as my 2000 which was 0.63 awake. That was with everything off and the key out and with the bonnet shut. I have got a metal bolt with a slot in it that fools the bonnet latch.
For someone doing them fairly regularly it would probably be worth making up a jig to hold the radius arm in the right position while the bush is being pressed in. Weld a bit of old angle iron. My bushes are next due in another 20 years, if I am around.
I did all my front end bushes last year. The panhard rod bushes are very easy to do. I pressed the old ones out and fitted the new ones just using a large bench vice and a couple of suitably sized sockets as spacers. It was a doddle.
The radius arms are a different matter. The arms need to come off the car obviously, a big job in itself. The bushes are all plastic and rubber. There is no outer metal sleeve as such. I burnt them out with a propane torch and an old wood chisel as a scaper. Then took the opportunity to clean up and paint the arm. I used emery paper on the eye of the radius arm then lubricated it to ensure the bush went in cleanly.
So far so good. All of this is straightforward.
Now the difficult bit. The bush is slightly bigger than the radius arm. It needs to be compressed to get it started in the hole. I have a hydraulic press and I tried filing a chamfer on the bush. I wrecked the bush. Others say they have done it sucessfully though. The special L/R tool is very expensive. In the end I found an Indy that had it and he did it while I waited. Didn't charge much.
I bought the bearing I think it was romanbob used. I would use that in a hydraulic press if I had to do it again.
Use OEM bushes all round not poly.
Gordonjcp:
Thanks for your offer of assistance. However I have already set up my Pi as an Apache webserver. I also installed NGINX.
The setup just needs completing. It does work and can be accessed from the net but needs the login & passwords setting up and a decent first page that shows the documents in some sort of order.
I am playing around with HTML code to get a decent layout but I am new to HTML coding. It is not the sort of thing that could be taught via email, but thanks anyway.
I have already uploaded a number of documents a while back along with Rave and Microcat to RutlandRover's google drive? I think it was. The link was down for a while.
Wazzajnr mentioned using his Dropbox which prompted me to post what I had done.
All the files are on an 8Gb micro SD card on the Raspberry Pi. It has no hard disk as such.
It was an exercise I did during the lockdown to show what could be done with a £10 Pi. I also toyed with the idea of using my server for posting my photos instead of using Imgur.
I am with NoIP already and one of their domains amongst many others they have is .stufftoread.com.
I just jumped in and bagged Landrover.stufftoread.com and Rangerover.stufftoread.com as my domains.
When you retweeted my post I assume your comments were directed just to me.
To make it clear, I know you own the site. (I did however think previously that it was jointly owned by you and Richard.)
I have absolutely no interest in owning, buying or interfering in this site, so why the lecture?
My intention was to be helpful and post a permanent link to my little Raspberry Pi with all the files on it. It is just file storage nothing more. Another link just for "handy downloads".
I have mixed feelings about D###tek. He invited me down to stay with him at his place in the south of France or rather park my caravan up in his field outside. He has a french wife. Never met him though. Told me a story about loosing a patent infringement case over some electronic gizmo he designed. Cost him dearly apparently.
Changing the subject ........ I have set up my own server using a raspberry pi zero. Cost me all of £10.
I have a stack of L/R technical documents and I downloaded all of the RR.net pages when that nice guy posted the link a while back.
It works and can be accessed via the net. I have the domain name: landrover.stufftoread.com
It is not switched on at the moment however. It is not secure and the front end needs setting up. It just lists a stack of files.
I am trying to get to grips with HTML language but I think I have lost too many brain cells.
I left LZ for the same reason. I was dave4x4 on there. I didn't like the comments by either W###ers or D###tek.
Because they got away with it, others jumped in as well. I thought I don't need this.
Apparently ex Royal Marine invalided out when he got injured.
I don't know who owns LZ. It has a tie up with Emmotts of Colne and I suspected maybe W###ers was latterly a workshop foreman.
...... geometrical infelicities ?? .......... had to look that one up!