+1 on Tee'ing into 20.
Just a simple unequal aluminium Tee. I think there is already a plastic joiner in there if you look at the picture. Just replace it with the Tee.
I also moved the expansion tank to the left an inch so the outlet hose cleared the modulator.
Sounds simple, but it was actually most of the work. Had to take the bracket off and cut and weld it.
I ran some, but not all, of my brake lines in copper nickel tubing at the same time as I fitted braided hoses. I did from the modulator down to the back axle and fitted an extra union before it went over the back axle, also replaced a couple of the short connections. I put a loop in below the modulator as an "anti vibration curve", though I didn't know it was called that. I got the tubing from Automec
https://automec.co.uk/?gclid=Cj0KCQjw28T8BRDbARIsAEOMBczU4ebh0-eJFgF1M90yIErsmaXkEAuc5JSvyiGtjNVzuQt9f106kv0aAvPaEALw_wcB
It was already made up with nuts and the ends flared. I think Kunifer is a proprietary name is it? Pure copper tubing is not a good idea. It is not legal in some markets. One thing I learned was to use the tool for making nice bends. Doing them by hand doesn't look as good.
Looks a big canoe. You would need to tie the ends to the car front and back to stop it sliding I think.
It only proves p38 owners are all mad. I am in the same boat though.
Or take measurements with a pair of calipers and let me have a sketch.
Getting back off topic ........
Maserati steering bush:
Can't really see much from the diagram Richard. Looks more like a flexible rubber bung that presses into the bracket.
Sometimes a lathe is better for some parts, but if it needs to be flexible, there are flexable filaments available. I haven't printed with them yet.
Doing the cad drawing is half the work.
Suggestion ........ if you can send me a good one to take measurements from, I will draw it up,. That will produce an .stl file that can be printed.
It is going to trial and error so I can print it out in ABS to begin with, send it back to you, try it for fit and adjust as necessary. When we are happy with the dimensions, then decide what material to make it out of.
The strength of the part depends on several things. The ones I have just printed were in ABS, but there is a good choice of different plastics nowadays each with their own advantages and disadvantages. ABS is very tough and OK for outdoors as well. Problem is it warps when you are doing bigger items. The design is also a big factor in engineering strength. The part is not completely solid either. The inside has a honeycomb structure to save weight and also plastic. Lots of things to vary. Printing temp for instance and layer height. The print progresses by being built up layer by layer typically 0.2mm or 200 microns per layer for the part I did.
If anyone has any suggestions for other parts or brackets, I can have a go at doing them and post the files. I am not going anywhere for the next couple of weeks due to the covid lockdown. The brackets would have to be non critical items where failure of the part would not be dangerous. Also there is a size limitation of about 250x150x150.
I don't have a Nanocom, I have a Faultmate and as a registered owner I can go on Blackbox Systems own private Faultmate forum and ask either for official support or see if someone else has had the same problem . It is a mine of information. I am sure there must be a similiar one for Nanocom devices.
Colin, the owner of BBS, is a member on here. I am sure he will reply if you flag up the issue to him.
The blend motors also need calibrating don't forget. You will need diagnostics to do it.
David: No, I am not taking orders but the designs are free if someone has a printer.
The little plugs for the roof rails took me about 6 hours work. Doing the scad drawing, then print it, try it for fit, redraw it, print it again. It took several attempts to get it right. The drinks holder was version three I think and each one took 9 hours to print. It is more a hobby and hell I am not going anywhere at the moment. We are in lockdown where I live.
Yes, the cubby has to be emptied first, one slight disadvantage. It sits flat on the base of the cubby. The cans are also slighly forward and lower compared with the original.
If anyone wants them, I will put the designs on Thingiverse, which I think is the main library for 3D bits.
Hmm ........ maybe I should carry a boat anchor with me to throw out of the window ....... just in case.
Thanks for the feedback Richard.
I need constructive suggestions. It is about the third one I printed. First one didn't fit so I made a few changes to the dimensions.
To make it easier to print I changed it to a completely flat bottom. It does away with a raft and lots of support pillars. Even so it is stlll a 9 hour print.
I put the tray in partly to make the whole thing more rigid and also I thought it would be a useful feature anyway.
The holder hooks over the existing panel and I put a couple of triangular webs at the back of the cylinders to stiffen it up.
Also a bit of lettering !
The cylinders are for a 70mm can. I can position them further apart to see the switches better. I will have to play around.
Any other features you can think of? The scad drawing is parametric so it is easy to make changes.
We are now in Tier 2 lockdown area so no socialising for a bit.
Spent most of the time yesterday on my 3d printer. Making parts which are no longer available.
I have printed a dash mount cup holder LNR32685 with a few changes. It sits a bit lower and has a tray for coins and pens.
I have also printed some plugs for the roof rails
Originals are on the left and my version is on the right. The plugs fit and a fairly good match I think.
I fitted Goodridge braided hoses all round over 10 years ago from one of their outlets in Stockport, Cheshire.
Mine are +2" and I remember they had the patterns on record which saves taking measurements and thread sizes etc.
I also remember a choice of just the hoses alone or inc stainless fittings. I went with the latter and it pushed the price up quite a bit.
Sorry for the delay KCR. I have only just read your post on the dark side. I thought you had another source from JMCLuimni.
I have posted two parts manuals I have in .pdf format. No idea where I got them from. They are years old.
Can't do attachments on here as far as I know, only links.
Ask again on rr.net and I will send it.
I have pasted a few bookmarks of the sites I have used in the past:
https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/
https://www.paddockspares.com/
https://www.p38spares.co.uk/commerce/1/page/Home.html
https://www.lrdirect.com/home.php
http://p38webshop.co.uk/
Shipping overseas should be 20% VAT free which would offset the postage. Maybe just the larger companies are setup to do this.
I also fitted a new accumulator during the lockdown when my car was sorn'ed for 5 months. No real problems with it but it was 20 years old and it seemed like a good idea to change it.
Just unscrewed the old one after depressurising and screwed in the new one. The old one was bloody tight. I had to use an oil filter chain wrench to unscrew it. I feared there was pressure still behind it. It has a fine thread.
However, brakes were soft after I did it and I ended up bleeding the whole system. It needed a fluid change anyway. New bleed nipples on the back as well. I like a few new shiny bits underneath. Impresses MOT guys as well.