It is so long ago since I did mine. I have owned the car for 18 years now and I bought it with a towing bracket and just a black 12N plug.
I put a 12S socket on later along with a removeable towing bracket.
I remember buying an aftermarket control box for the 12S socket but it didn't work. I don't remember fitting a relay to the car. The caravan has a habitation relay which cuts the caravan battery when it detects the car engine running. You may be confusing it with that. Not all caravans have them.
The 12S socket has a permanent 12v on one of the pins and I remember running a separate heavy duty fused supply straight from the battery. I made up a plug and I charge the car through the 12s socket now. Sorry it is not more help. Must have been 15 years ago.

You could open it up to copy the inards with equivalent stainless bits, cut them out, then get someone to TIG weld them all together.

I have swapped over my driver and passenger seat bases. I did it at the same time as I repaired the seat heating elements.
I also added an extra 1" thick layer of foam to the side squabs to force the wrinkles out.
I remember having to do some stitching underneath to deal with tears in the fabric. So called leather seats were not all leather.

There are 10 kinds of people. Those that understand binary and those that do not.

RHS while sitting in the car. On the drivers side for a UK RHD car. On the passenger side for a LHD car.
You can see it if you lie on your back.

Careful, the guy that owns BBS is a member on here.

I have got a Faultmate and BBS has its own faultmate forum. Loads of good info and help. Some familiar names on there as well.
I am sure there will be an equivalent nano forum.

You may have to get them tailor made if they are NLA due to low demand.
I can recommend a company called Double S Exhausts. Some of my exhaust parts are made by them.
https://stainlesssteelexhausts.co.uk/
Mine is a diesel but I have spoken to them on the phone in the past and they said they have all the patterns on file and will basically make one off exhausts out of any grade of stainless that you want. May cost a bit more.

Medical experts were asked if it is time to ease the lockdown.
Allergists were in favour of scratching it, but Dermatologists advised not to make any rash moves.
Gastroenterologists had sort of a gut feeling about it, but Neurologists thought the government had a lot of nerve.
Obstetricians felt certain everyone was labouring under a misconception, while Ophthalmologists considered the idea shortsighted.
Many Pathologists yelled, "Over my dead body!" while Pediatricians said, "Oh, grow up!"
Psychiatrists thought the whole idea was madness, while Radiologists could see right through it.
Surgeons decided to wash their hands off the whole thing and pharmacists claimed it would be a bitter pill to swallow.
Plastic Surgeons opined that this proposal would "put a whole new face on the matter."
Podiatrists thought it was a step forward, but Urologists were pissed off at the whole idea.
Anaesthetists thought the whole idea was a gas, and those lofty Cardiologists didn’t have the heart to say no.
In the end, the Proctologists won out, leaving the entire decision up to the assholes.

The plugs should be there behind the front valance. You will also need to find someone with diagnostics to turn them on in the BECM.

My method to shift rusted bolts is to wire brush them first, then leave them to soak using proper penetrating fluid.
Wire brushing is the essential step especially if there is an exposed thread.
Then 1/2" breaker bar usually. The socket must be in good condition so it doesn't round the nuts. I use 3/4" gear on the big stuff.
Most of my nuts have now been off previously and I have been religious with Coppaslip.
I have fairly recently bought a Dewalt impact wrench and have not used it much on the car yet except for wheel nuts.

Sorry Kapila, never had a problem with mine.
It has never been touched in 20 years..

Try running a diesel. It goes black after just a few hundred miles.
Oil changes are every 6000 miles. That means 10 litres and a new filter.
A cost if you are on fully synthetic.

I am probably sticking my nose in, but I was concerned about a fellow member (Kapilamuni, who I have known for a long time), on the other site having a less then satisfactory experience with Island4x4. He is also a member on here so may chip in in due course.
He received Britpart parts when he ordered genuine and a refurbished starter motor when it should have been new from Hella.
My experience with Island4x4 has been good so far I must say. They are my first port of call. I ordered stuff during the lockdown a couple of months ago and as Richard says it was just one guy. He said he takes a walk into the warehouse to see if they have the bits before accepting the order. Can't be fairer than that.
I hope they are are not sending out stuff to distant customers knowing it is too expensive to return. Maybe I am getting cynical in my old age.

Thinking about the brakes ..... did the pistons push back in OK when replacing the pads? Everything nice and free?
I use a G clamp to get them in. They can jam if the brake fluid hasn't been changed for yonks.

It does sound like brake binding is the problem. Heating the wheel up can only be the brakes.
I would fit new slider pins all round. You can't keep cleaning up old ones. Calipers should be OK.
Also use silicone grease on the sliders, it is more water resistant. Or use coppaslip.
I am assuming the wheel bearings were OK when you rebuilt the suspension? Replaced as necessary and everthing reassembled to factory torque settings? No ABS warnings?
Brake disks are cast iron and are designed to run red hot. Wheel bearings would be smoking if they got very hot.

I agree what you say Clive about stainless steel stressed parts. It is very prone to cracking and usually stainless parts are made thinner because it doesn't rust. I doubt if any calculations have been done. Just make a few and try them out.
Someone sold a stainless steel Defender chassis a few years back. It wasn't around long due to cracking. If anything stainless stressed parts need to be beefed up and made thicker.

So what is your verdict on the wheel bearings? The RH one has gone and the LH is OK?

There is a black plastic bush that presses into the hub and then a thin copper mesh thingy that the ABS sensor slots into.
Both cleaned up on mine and I reused them.
As Richard said use silicone grease on reassembly. Polish the sensor with some wire wool.

I have never seen a rebuild kit advertised. That link is also dead by the way.
Does anyone know if the wabco pump was used on any other vehicles?

I have got Arnott Gen III's fitted to mine and it rises up +4" on the off road setting !! One of the few benefits.
I have never had a sudden failure to cause the suspension to collapse. I have confidence in it and I admit I do crawl underneath for inspections, not for jobs as such. The worst that would happen is that it would drop down to the bump stops and the car would be on its wheels. I might get injured but I wouldn't be crushed.

When I do need to do some serious work underneath particularly with the wheels off, I use substantial axle stands.
Also be aware that like other Landrover models with the handbrake on the back of the gearbox, the car can rotate and twist off the stands even with the handbrake on. It is therefore essential to chock a couple of wheels both sides of the wheel to stop it twisting.
When it is on the stands I give it a rock backwards and forwards to make sure it is stable.

Your wobble ........ tyres first. Swap them over as mentioned. Costs nothing. Check steering damper.
Are you in the UK? Did it get through the MOT ok?