Dunlops seem to be made with natural rubber, as Richard says like a tyre construction. Arnotts are thinner and are made of a synthetic rubber.

Well done, and here's to the next 400k.

I flew on a DC3 as well. From capital, Lusaka up to the copper belt.
The plane was an old crate. I remember being buffeted by the wind and all the luggage falling out of the overhead racks.
The door at the front into the pilots cabin kept slamming open and closed and I found out that it was being piloted by a local black guy who was having a flying lesson by an expatriot white guy who looked half pissed.
The plane suddenly dropped like a stone and we landed on a grass strip after bouncing several times.

I was in Chingola, about an hour away from Kitwe.

Mad-as: I believe it is the highest verifiable temperature. There is some doubt over the accuracy of earlier readings.

I worked on a copper mine in Zambia in the '70's. In the summer it was easily mid 40's but a dry heat outside of the rainy season. I learn't to cover up in the sun. Long sleeved shirt, wide brimmed hat, etc.

Later I lived in Durban, South Africa. It reached 40 deg C in the summer but 100% humidity. It was very uncomfortable.

I just wondered if anyone on here had driven to Death Valley in a p38. How did it perform? Did it overheat? Did the aircon keep up?

If anyone did I will buy them a cold beer. (collection only).

I have just been reading about Death Valley in California. It has just set a new record for the highest recorded temperature on earth of 54.4 deg C.
I used to live in Africa many years ago so used to temperatures in the mid 40's, but 54.4 deg C is unbelievable.
As a matter of interest any US members been there? and during the summer? and in a p38?

Yes. Early ones didn't have it.

How do you get a Halfords trade card?

If you do decide to order from Double S, there is a choice regarding the grade of stainless used.
With the cheapest option, the silencer boxes are usually made from 304 and the pipes from 409 grade.
409 is chosen because it is easy to form and easy to weld. The problem is the surface goes rusty. It won't rust through, but if you want nice shiny pipes on show it doesn't look too good. I know, stainless pipes that rust !!
When I spoke to them on the phone they said they could make them out of anything you wanted. The ultimate would be mirror finish 316 boxes and pipes, I guess. They do them for show cars and specials I believe, for a price that is.
Stainless pipes is one thing I would buy secondhand.

I have been on p38 forums quite a while and I have never heard anyone say their gearbox ECU has failed. They are usually very reliable.
I know the transfer box ECU can fail. It is quite common for the high/low solenoid to seize up through lack of use and take out the ECU.
Can't see what the logic is saying "fuel out of phase or pump/injectors". Maybe he was just guessing.
The MAF also has an important role in gear changes.

I have not needed to do it on mine as yet. It has done 163k and starts fine (or would do when I charge up my battery).
I have been meticulous about oil changes so I guess the chain has not worn too much.

The method is trial and error. First of all mark the position of the FIP relative to the surrounding casting with a felt tip pen. This gives a starting point.
Then with the engine off, slacken the bolts in the FIP and rotate the FIP towards the engine. From the front of the car this would be anticlockwise.
Try 2mm to start with. Bolt the FIP up tight and try starting it. Then try 4mm and see if it is any better.

As I said, I have not needed to do it but I know what to do.
There are some practical issues like the best way to force the FIP to move when the fuel injection pipes are solidly bolted to it. I think Kapila has done it so he may chip in. I think most people have reported that 4mm works best for them but do it in 2mm steps.

It can also be done live with the engine running using a nanocom or a faultmate. Same method to rotate the FIP but you can see the engine fuel injection timing live on the screen.

This is an old post but I have just found out some new info.

My p38 is presently sorned. Has been for a few months while I have been ticking off occasional jobs on it.
I thought I had been keeping and eye on the battery but just found it flat as a pancake. It was down to 11.6v.
However after 24 hrs on charge it has bounced back. Now up to 12.4v. Not quite there yet. Taking an age to charge with a small 3 amp Cetek charger.
It is a Lucas LX31MF which is described as a leisure/marine dual purpose battery. I thought it was a rebadged Hankook as the cases look the same. Eurobatt, who I bought it off, have just said it is not a rebadged Hankook but they are made in the same factory in Korea and use the same case along with some other brands.
The spec also isn't the same. It is 105 Ah and 740 CCA. They actually said it is 1000 MCA. Not sure what the difference is CCA vs MCA.
Also said Hankook do not make batteries themselves. They are a tyre company.

I have sorned my p38, although I have been running it once a month on tickover.
Went out yesterday and battery completely flat. Put it on trickle charge overnight. Only 11.6v and 50 CCA.
Spent an hour today looking for the receipt. Bought in Sept 2018. 4 year guarantee from Eurobatt.
It is a Lucas MF31 which I think is a rebadged Hankook. It has been on charge for most of today. Still less than 12v but CCA up to 260.
Buggered I would say.

All the things that tanis8472 mentioned plus get rid of the hot start device.

Then advance the FIP timing to bring it back within spec.
The timing chain stretches with time causing the the fuel injection timing to become more and more retarded. Bit like me.
It is just a single chain. It would have been better if it was designed with a duplex chain, imho.
The method in Rave requires a few special tools and a dial gauge. It is quite involved.
A non official method is to slacken and slightly rotate the FIP so the timing is advanced to compensate.

Very interesting. Congrats. In such a short space of time as well.

You are nearly there. You have done all the heavy work with just a few details left to complete.

I did not realise that you were going down the compushift route. I thought from your previous posts you were trying to get the p38 gearbox ECU, M57 engine ECU and the BECM/dash all talking to each other? Is the compushift going to be temporary or permanent?

I have got factory guards on mine.
Hard to disguise the rivnut but you could put a stainless steel button dome head allen screw in it. It doesn't look too bad.

Just a mobile phone in a holder stuck on the windscreen. I use Google for navigating on the road. You need to have mobile data enabled to use it.

When off the beaten track I have got an Android app that runs UK Ordinance Survey maps. Not sure about the legality of it.

It is not navigation, it just shows you where you are, or more usually that you are not where you thought you are.

The link you provided is a very neat job.

Maybe I should have been clearer, I was only thinking of replacing the low pressure hose from the reservoir (hose ... rather than hoses plural).

Mine is currently just held on with a jubilee clip. It would be nice to tidy up the whole area, as mine weeps causing a mess.

I did see years back someone who replaced their power steering hoses with stainless braided hose. Looked a really neat job.
I think it was in the States and someone did a kit at the time. I would like to do it. Mine are weeping.

I have got the diesel which has the gearbox oil cooler under the wing. It is notorious for shearing off the aluminium threads on the cooler when undoing it. I doesn't take much.
I guy from Foundary 4x4 gave me a good tip as they prepare a lot off off roaders. When fitting from new, as well as coppaslip on the threads, wrap the unions in Denso tape. Denso looks like felt cloth impregnated with a thick grease. It is used industrially. The idea is to keep water out.
The scientific principle is that solid metals do not react together unless in the presence of water and/or air.
I have not proved it to work as it has not been off since.