I have got a pair of Machine Mart 6 tonne axle stands https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cax-6tbc-6-ton-axle-stands/
They are very solid and support the chassis very firmly. Had them 15 years+ and I would recommend them. You need to over specify lifting gear.
I have also got a couple of 2 tonne stands from the year dot, Halfords I think. Made of angle iron. Only for supporting one end of axle. I hardly use them.
I have a 3 tonne 4x4 trolley jack which is rapid action and high lift. I thought I got it from Machine Mart but can't see it listed. Given good service 15 years+, although it had new seals and an oil change about 2 years ago.

A method I have used to verify if it is the bag leaking, is to put a temporary manual valve in the airline to the bag. Blow it up, valve it off and leave it overnight.
If it still drops, it must be something else ...... probably the solenoid valve leaking. Get a cheap plastic ball valve with 6mm connections on Ebay.

Having just done my bushes and also all the steering parts on the front I can say it pays to shop around on prices. Sometimes Island4x4 was cheapest and sometimes Paddock Motors. Also some of the bolts were cheaper on Ebay. Often they are used on other L/R models and sellers bulk buy them.

I have just replaced my radius arm bushes with OEM. You can't just press them in. You need the special tool with tapered sides that compress the bush as RutlandRover described. Biggest problem I had was the bolts. Mine were rusted completely solid and I had to cut them all out with a hacksaw. You could probably just press the old bushes out though. I burnt mine out as I didn't have a press at the time.
Panhard rod bushes are dead easy. I just used a big vice.

I think you're right Aragorn. I will look round for a Timken. I have got spare front and rear hubs that I intend to rebuild once I do the one off the car.

I just want to get it back on the road and will have to use what I have got for the time being. Now I have got all the gear and I have done one it is much easier.

I got the inner sleeve off eventually. Heat didn't shift it and I couldn't get a cold chisel in there. I cut a slot in it using a Dremel with a cutting disk and then slit it with a chisel. Also there isn't a dust shield on the shaft. It was just part of the old bearing come apart.

So Dad makes sure he uses it the most.

Thanks Chris. It is a bit tight getting the cutting blade in there. Also it is easy to make a mistake with an angle grinder but I will have another look tomorrow.
I would prefer to use a gas torch and expand the inner sleeve, obviously without overdoing it. What about there being a dust shield on the outer face of the bearing? I can't tell without taking it off.

I already had some new bearings from wayback, Ebay I think. They are SAHA brand and are double row ball bearings. The bearing I took out was the original and is a Timken. As I said it is a double row roller bearing.

Not such a bonkers idea. If my son was that age, I would rather he had plenty of steel around him instead of tearing about in a hot hatch.
Also if dad is his mechanic it makes sense. It all hinges on insurance. Try Adrian Flux which is round your neck of the woods. I use them for my modded diesel. You could register the car in your name until he is older, with him as a named driver.

Diesels are very underpowered as standard but chipping them transforms the car. Go for one from 1999 onwards.

I need a bit of advice on replacing wheel bearings.

I have just completed fabricating a 20 tonne hydraulic press and I have used it to press out the inner part of my front hub, the bit with the wheel studs on. It started to shift at around 10 or 12 tonnes I would guess.

The bearing inner ring is made in two halves and one half is still wedged on the shaft. I am planning on putting some heat into it to get it off the shaft, unless someone says otherwise. I tried a puller but I can't get the jaws under it (my puller is half knackered anyway).

The inner ring is hard up against the back of the hub and I can see a thin disk. Is this a separate dust seal that I need to retain or is it just part of the original bearing that can be ditched? I can't tell until I get it off. It had the original Timken bearing fitted, which was a double roller bearing with a nylon cage.

I have also removed the circlip and pressed out the rest of the bearing from the outer hub. It was tight, right at the limit of 20 tonnes I would guess before it made a bang and started to move.

Reassembly? After cleaning up the hub I was going to press the bearing into the outer hub first, by just pressing the outer ring. Then fit a new circlip and press the whole thing onto the hub shaft, pressing on the inner ring only. Any comments appreciated.

I also notice my replacement is a ball bearing marked SAHA.

I have just revisited the post on the "other" site and they were talking about the front pipe going to the radiator.
I originally thought it was the rear pipe to the heater with the U bend on it. I must have missed that.
The front pipe could be done in situ and I would be temped to epoxy the bugger in as well, using Araldite or something similar.
I think the head would have to come off to do the rear one.

It does sound over the top for a s/h exhaust. They do occasionally come up on Ebay if you leave a search running. That is where I bought mine which is a double s.
It is one thing I would buy second hand. However there are stainless exhausts and there are stainless exhausts. You get what you pay for and I personnally wouldn't pay more than £200 for a system.
The bolts and flanges are nearly always carbon steel and on mine the pipes developed surface rust. After enquiring I found they are made from 409 grade stainless and the boxes in 304. The factory said they could make them in anything I wanted (for a price obviously) all 304 or even all 316 with a mirror finish for show cars.
409 grade does not have any nickel in it, just chromium. It is also magnetic which made me think at first it was carbon steel.

Hoppy,

Just realised you live in Winsford, about 15 mins away from me. I live in Kelsall.
Can't do much at the minute. One of my front wheel bearings has gone, so I am off the road.
I have also f**ked my back up welding up a hydraulic press, so I need to take it easy and put my feet up over Christmas!
Must establish contact.

Dave M

I have just dug out an old scan of my engine a few years ago and it was showing 76.05% when idling at 750 rpm.
Rotating the pump to bring the timing back is usually trial and error by ear. A guy called Rousecapri was the guy who had done quite a few, but not sure if he is a member on here. He was on Rangerovers.net.
Using Nanacom or Faultmate would be more accurate I guess. I personnally would not like to run the engine with a loose pump.
Stop the engine, move the pump then retighten it. Run the engine again and recheck readings.

I have got the factory nudge bar with safary 5000 spotlights mounted on the factory bracket.
Like to help but unfortunately they are off the car at the moment.

Worth investing in a radiator pressure testing kit. You can then pressurise the system with the pump that comes with the kit and see where the leak is coming from.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223234859483?ViewItem=&item=223234859483

I am just in the process of welding up a press using a 20 tonne jack. It is working out more expensive than buying one off the shelf.
I have started so I will have to finish now.

The tool for putting them in is in two parts - there is a conical lead part in that compresses the bush so it fits the hole.
The bush is actually plastic on the outside. I originally thought it was a metal outer.
The panhard rod bushes are a doddle. I just sqeezed them in using a large vice and a suitably sized socket.

I am embarassed to say it but this all started when it failed the MOT. I always take it to the same place - which is an MOT testing centre not a garage and I know the lads quite well. It had passed every year for about the last 9 or 10 years and the last 5 with no advisories. This time however he said the bushes were well shot ......... WTF.
He must have used a pry bar on the arms when it was up on the lift. I couldn't see much wrong with them with a visual inspection but when I eventually got them off the central sleeve in a few the bushes was detached from the rubber.
The car suspension does seem a bit tighter since I did them. I also renewed the drag link, track rod and panhard rod bushes at the same time.
I did not get the tracking done right away, I counted the same number of threads on the track rod. Since then however a front wheel bearing has gone and I am wondering if the tracking has been the cause.
Presently welding up a home made hydraulic press to do the bearings.

I have just done the radius arm bushes on mine. Sod of a job. I had to cut through every bolt. I used a power hacksaw to help.
Once the arms were off I burnt out the old bushes using a propane torch and an old wood chisel. Good job I have got good neighbours.
I went for OEM bushes and tried to press them in. Bad mistake.
The bushes are a good 1/8" bigger than the hole. I tried chamfering the edge of the bush to get it started and ended up knackering a bush.
The job can't be done without the special tool and I didn't fancy buying it and then leaving it in the garage to gather dust for the next ten years, so I took the radius arms round to a local LandRover indy. They did it while I waited. All 4 bushes for £25.