Something to consider: Based on photos (and V5 proof): "from £30..."
https://www.lockingwheelnutkeys.co.uk/
Or specifically:
https://www.lockingwheelnutkeys.co.uk/product-page/land-rover-1
£40 is reasonable considering the alternatives (as seen on all the YouTube video nasties covering this !):
eg. (Just FF to 4.30)...... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pyBHK2jjupg:
Now what was that saying about "cracking a nut with a sledge hammer " ?!
('Spoiler': He is simply just whacking a 19mm 12-star socket onto it.....
I do like the part where he says he 'wants to use it again' though)
Actually this is my favourite......
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bq77uKSMU6M
..... or just look at this link if you don't have the time to watch the video:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/mcgard-locking-wheel-bolts-removal-drill-diy.html
Even longer..... even more painful to watch (Sorry):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K-dr38wV7nA
Forgot to mention the "Hubitools LugDriller HU42025" in that last video is £400
Yes, it's strange there is only one photo - with Bow and Arrows; Perhaps it's because he 'did a Robin Hood' and gave the airbags away to the poor/more worthy ? Or perhaps it is just a reference to the 'Cowboys' who did this 'conversion' ?.......
(I was also going to expand on why it was in Scunthorpe but stopped myself - before I got into trouble...)
Not bad for ~ £150 but looks quite limited (and not just because it is only for GEMS ECUs); Keep us posted !
Hmm... then perhaps the 'problem' can be fixed with a roof rack and some stickers ?
http://retro-motoring.com/events/Silverstone-Classic-2013/images/IMG_2151.jpg
Maybe this was the inspiration ?
I actually like it !!
Safe, as it can be seen for miles...... it is unlikely to be stolen.... and only observers need the shades....
Oh dear, just checked the DVLA history.... Maybe those rear tyres will (or did) produce those 'bangs' ?
MOT date is before the 'New' (eg. might-be-tricky-for-diesels) MOT rules came in too......
The incandescent bulb issue is a Global phenomenon: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phase-out_of_incandescent_light_bulbs
The theory is a typical incandescent bulb lasts 2 years, LED perhaps 15-20 years (with less consumption of course)
.
When the first (expensive) tiny florescent bulbs arrived some years back I found they did not last long at all so I started to collect the receipts, leading to some 'interesting conversations' when I returned them within a 12-month period.....!
Just like the inevitable Car Tax on Electric Vehicles if/when we all change to LEDs the Electricity Utilities will find ways to maintain their profits and Smart Meters / Variable Pricing are part of that strategy too. As it always involves the usual 'Supply/Demand' Model all the excuses to raise prices (regardless) will not change much either.
Suppose I could convert my P38 though: At least Electric Motors have "one moving part"... apparently
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGjOY4JBmy4
Seems to help the reliability issues too !
Yes Gilbertd I did not really expect it to be very representative with only 18K motors but JLR seem to have taken note.....
but I doubt they care....
I don't think LR expected so many P38s to survive this long ... What would have happened without Fora like this, folks cracking TestBook and EAS software and the like ? (They would all now be beyond economic repair & scrapped of course)..
As for electric cars I suspect the(ir) plan is to get everyone to buy one and then tell them they have to pay to upgrade the mains distribution network in the street (as well as paying Car Tax by then...); No petrol cars by 2040 !! Hilarious.....
"WHAT CAR?" SURVEY:-
" The Land Rover Range Rover is one of the UK’s least reliable cars, according to a new report.
Some 18,284 motorists who own cars less than four years old were surveyed for the What Car? research.
A reliability rating of up to 100% was awarded to 159 models, taking into account the cost of repairs and how long they were off the road after suffering faults.
Japanese models continue to dominate the top of the reliability rankings, both for car model and brand rankings
What Car?
The Land Rover brand occupied three of the bottom five places on the ranking.
This includes the Range Rover (67%), Range Rover Evoque (73%) and Discovery Sport (75%).
The lowest ranked car was the Tesla Model S with just 51%.
A rating of 100% was given to the Toyota Yaris, Suzuki Sx4 S-Cross and Nissan Leaf (2011-2017).
What Car? editor Steve Huntingford said: “Reliability is a huge consideration for any prospective car buyer, as your car is likely to be your second biggest monthly expense after mortgage or rent payments.
“You want your car to last and you don’t want to have to fork out huge amounts to fix faults and keep it running.
“Our annual survey has shown that it is Japanese models that continue to dominate the top of the reliability rankings, both for car model and brand rankings.”
A Jaguar Land Rover spokesman said: “’Quality is our number one priority at Jaguar Land Rover. We are dedicated to delivering the finest vehicles to our customers, therefore we are disappointed with these results.
“We will learn from this data, we have instigated a number of quality measures and product updates in our business that have led to improvements in our award-winning vehicles.
“These new systems and customer focus will lead to improved vehicle quality and customer satisfaction going forward.”
Who Knew ?
Hard to tell from the photos but that's probably as good as it gets when doing it semi-outdoors ! It seems to match the original grey quite well too (which is also handy as you are not spraying the whole roof (?)
When doing this I am personally not too concerned about orange peel effects, more about how think the paint coat is..... and in these temperatures (still 20+) it will cure quite rapidly but be sure to check on a smaller piece with the Clear Coat as it may react with the Gloss. Good to note you have a water trap for when it gets colder too !
No problem rhyl46, and for what's it's worth if (like me) you are old (ie. experienced) enough to get insured for a 420bhp Jag I don't think they would be too concerned about a chip on your obviously well-serviced P38....!
Worth mentioning that with one of the (other) Classics clubs I am involved with one of the members has an 'agreed vaulation' policy requiring photos to be sent to the Insurance Company. They noted it now had a boot spoiler and this was thus a 'modification'..... until the owner pointed out it was an OEM accessory: The main issue here of course being Insurance Companies look more these days for reasons to increase Premiums and excuses not to pay out after an incident. (In fact far too many good/repairable cars are just written off by them these days - but that's a different story)
Sorry, rhyl146, did not mean to offend - I renewed my insurance just last week and they asked 'is it modified in any way ?'. Don't know the implications if I have a bender and they found something 'non-standard'. Again as in #2 it's all your choice (Legality/Emissions/Insurance/etc permitting) !
Overall I think I have been over-sensitised to the topic, in part due to all the 'snake oil' stuff that folks sell; You know the kind of thing, magnets in the fuel line/tank, devices to produce a 'better' intake vortex, extra ECT resistors to 'fool' the ECU into thinking it is cooler than it is etc - and lots of other ways of wasting money....
Then there are the 'second tier' of devices, inlet filters, different exhaust systems and so on. Not sure of the 'value for money' on many of these either but they do at least make the car sound 'faster' / 'better' (and I would be really interested to see how the Emissions levels changed before/after too...
The Tornado chip approach is at least the most effective way to 'improve performance' but at what cost ?
If we were talking about a new car (not our 100K+ miles examples) I could probably understand it better.......
Perhaps I'm just a Scotty out of Star Trek kind of person; "Ye Cannae Change The Laws Of Physics (Jim)" !
At risk of 'flak' have you told your insurance company you modified the car like this ?
Being a bit reactionary perhaps but I fully agree with #2 on this: LR did not make a 'perfect' car by any stretch of the imagination but they did optomise it for a wide range of uses. Perhaps I should mention here that I have had this kind of "ECU re-mapping" debate with other makes and (eventually) concluded that many of the 'improvements' are more or less illusionary; As you imply 'you can't get something for nothing. !
In fact if if the steel pin in the bottom of (OEM alloy) rear bags is seized in it can easily take 'a while' to get them out; Yes, take your time, it often takes hours the first time you do any job on cars.... all part of 'the learning' process (for next time ).of course.
Take the liners out: With those expanding clips that hold them in place I drill a small hole (Imm) in the centre of the plastic peg that pushes into it to expand it out....then I use a thin woodscrew screw to quickly extract those pegs, then the clips (the next time I remove them)..... then it takes maybe 10 minutes to remove a liner.
PS: As you can easily damage them get some spare clips anyway: I mean this type: e-bay 152012631480
JMCL: It is usually best to stick with the original colour anyway; Such 'blends' are a real pain to match up when the almost-inevitable 'car-park rash' happens..... and then you would have to return to the original paint-shop too of course (and which may be his plan of course....).
I fully agree with the 'preparation is everything' philosophy too, particularly as darker colours really show all the blemishes/imperfections/etc.
Looks promising Redraptor; Would be tempted to stay with Matt grey (and tell everyone it's a 'wrap') !
Have you decided on Base+Clear or Gloss yet ?
Good result Marty; Hopefully he will 'get it' with other cars now (rather that just send them off for new cats etc !)
'Had to check underneath' though 'to see it was connected' ?!
Some MOT testers do 'get it' without such edification.....
You obviously have a good eye Redraptor: I tend to ignore all my bodywork imperfections.... Having indulged in some 2K spraying myself recently - using the hot weather outside as my 'booth' (!) I will be watching your progress closely. My own work looks great (as long as you don't get within 6 feet !)
Guessing you know about this forum already Marty: http://mot-testers.proboards.com/
Sounds like they are getting confused, "tested and failed on both fuels" ?? Did they show/print these results out ?
I would argue a little more with them: Seems like lots of folks are being rather over-pedantic about the "new" rules....
It is odd that both your Hegos have failed though. As above an Italian tune-up works wonders, as does making sure
your Cats are good and hot before the Emissions test...
That's kind super4 but 'Gilbert' deserves that accolade not I - and of course I didn't even notice you had already posted up the Poole link !
The nearest I got to 'brilliant' with a P38 was to devise a method to turn off the SRS light on my early rig (in part encouraged by Storey's work with the EAS): I used software intended for - wait for it - Alpha Romeo cars of a similar vintage; Yes, I could turn the light off ... but only with the PC still connected; FAIL !!
If manufacturers could be 'persuaded' (eg, forced by law) to release electrical details of cars after (say) 20 years ther would be even more classics around: Plus we may actually Save The Planet like that rather than panicking about plastic straws up turtles' noses and other nonsense... better stop there....
