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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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Yes, sounds familiar Brian; Many Retail organisations have been doing this type of thing for years too.... they use "Loyalty Cards" for all kinds of nefarious/marketing purposes

The interesting thing is that if we went into a shop and they said "by entering this shop you have agreed to be tagged, identified. followed (even if you don't buy anything) and we can sell your details on to other shops" we would be straight out of there of course !

There is definitely a rush by some organisations to send out stuff before the GDPR 25th May deadline too...

Incidentally I won't Tweet either; They 'own' you....see https://twitter.com/en/privacy#update !!

That's true Chris, but I suspect it depends mainly on just who 'they' are and also where they are based (?)
I believe the privacy problems really started when Data-Bases compared (and sold) our personal details:
How did we ever allow this ?

About 10 years ago I was a big supporter of ID Cards. The plans for these were dropped in 2010....
something to do with "possible infringements of our personal liberties etc" (and other similar nonsense) !

Incidentally here is a 'Handy Guide', only 184 pages long.....

https://ico.org.uk/media/for-organisations/guide-to-the-general-data-protection-regulation-gdpr-1-0.pdf

Have to admit I am not a big fan of cookies, particularly the third-party variety, and some of this stems from RRS.net several years ago.....
whereby I had realised it was actually trying to set 37 of them.... and just how this would "enhance my web site experience" eluded me...

Most would not be too worried about (primary) browser-identifying cookies etc but it has all 'developed' much further beyond that.

IMHO the main problem with GDPR legislation is that it is probably 15+ years too late......

I would be more concerned with Diesels as they are making the Emissions requirement more stringent: Apparently some folks are panic selling their diesels (or, more sensibly, just getting MOTs done early - ie. before May 20th.)

Happy to help Gilbertd: hope it is/was the CPS (-it sounds like it). No doubt the mini does not throw up a Fault Code for it either. just like on our P38s....
Reluctor Ring pins are steel and should be (relatively) OK .... That said I know the CPS core/pin is just a few tho. away from those pins but I don't know what makes them actually touch together either (unless when really hot...?)

Fair point - I should have mentioned I was suggesting the (flying lead) ADU734O/SEB100 variant for Aragorn's '94 GEMS....

As many will be aware the LUCAS/TRW buyout was really just the name and their stuff comes from (very) afar now due to 'global
manufacturing trends'........http://www.lucaselectrical.co.uk/lucas-history.html

Have to admit I assume almost all 'mass manufacturing' of automotive components is 'elsewhere' these days....
but I also assume virtually all 'genuine'/OEM stuff on e-bay actually isn't either...

I replaced my CKP/CPS with one also designed for a mini/metro/maestro = ADU7340 = for about £20... and (..wait for it..) Made In England !!

EDIT: From a quick check on e-bay there are LUCAS equivalents SEB100 for about £25-30 too (but/and of unspecified origin...)

Incidentally I don't know quite why these go out of spec. either (as it's basically just a coil around a core/pin). The distance to the flywheel pins is
critical ( but unlikely to change unless damaged) so perhaps the magnetic properties change over time/heat (cycles) etc ?

Yes an iffy crank sensor can do that !

Sounds promising Sloth: Hard to tell though if it took 18 months for that iffy plug to corrode so badly,
'Keeping an eye on (suspect) things' is our 'owners motto' of course.....

Sadly e-bay is rife with all kinds of suspects/fakes, especially electronics stuff (as many have found out the hard way....
it seems I have become an expert on counterfeit memory cards like that): Markings/Holograms etc are cloned too,
and apparently regardless of bad feedback stating this !

Many of the (genuine) manufacturers have areas of their web sites telling you what to look for (but often 'too late'):
http://www.ngk-sparkplugs.jp/english/techinfo/fake/

(Yes of course the Counterfeiters also read this data in order to improve their fakes...)

Yes. I wondered if a (small !) liner leak could be cured with it too... In fact you can buy a whole kg of the power for about the same price (or in the US that bottle sells for about 3 times the price, but it does have an additive... yellow dye !.... )

It will be interesting to see just what Sloth finds when he looks at that plug again in a few hundred miles...

Didn't think you were 'having a go' Chris, just rightly saying "don't put cr@p in your coolant"! Think that chap was using 'Liquid Steel' (aka Snake Oil) ? It still surprises me too what folks will add to their rads - not just the proverbial raw egg - and then expect this to 'fix' it.... When it is the "Bars Leaks"/Pancake Mix-type stuff I usually tell them to expect to need to replace their rad (relatively easy) and/or the Heater Matrix ( usually a right PITA).

Sodium Silicate however is a powder - you dissolve it yourself - and has the advantage in that it becomes hard (as ceramic) only on contact with air+high temperatures: As stated it can certainly work on tiny leaks which is why folks try it with (small !) porous block problems.

no10chris wrote:

Davew wrote: " I may well get castigated/castrated for this but I start to think about Sodium Silicate-type resolutions if it is such a leak. ">

If you could see the rad I’ve just taken out of a 4.0 that had such stuff put in, you would avoid like the plague, it TOTALLY blocked the rad, no water flow what so ever..

Should have explained better Chris... As stated I expected some 'backlash' but I meant Sodium Silicate only... Not the (expensive) stuff with 'additives' particularly those that resemble pancake mix that will block your Heater Matrix too. (Or even those 'gimicky' variants with tiny copper flakes etc) .

With tiny leaks Sodium Silicate can work... (with limitations), eg. http://catalog.miniscience.com/Catalog/Sodium_Silicate/Default.html

In this case there is no (apparent) loss of coolant, or coolant pressurisation effects etc of course, just the compression test anomally, but as also stated it could still be a tiny leak

That said I like the latest comments about NGK fakes (- although this would then likely show up on the other plugs too ?).

Well that compression reading is even stranger if the engine was hot... as it's unlikely that water in the pot could give a better seal/pressure reading... (unless it had turned to steam...).

How's the oil look, any emulsification ? Ph test on the coolant ? (Yes, both are tricky if it really is a tiny leak... at the moment..)
I may well get castigated/castrated for this but I start to think about Sodium Silicate-type resolutions if it is such a leak.

Yes a coolant-getting-into-pot issue (eg. blown/iffy HG) usually gives that 'steam cleaned' look to the plug... Water quickly evaporates in the pot and does not usually produce such rust/corrosion either .. plus the plug thread also looks really quite nasty/rusty, too, also odd.

EDIT: As Aragorn just posted up, no it's not just you ! (and I agree with your comments below. too !)

Don't know how long you will be running your P38 but it would certainly be useful to check the 'new' plug in a week or two as you say.... assuming it does not clag up sooner than that.

When you say this pot gives a much higher reading doing the compression test how much higher ?
Normally if you have a 'path' though from pot to the water jacket it gives a low reading of course....

Could be a tiny liner leak but that would pressurise your coolant too...

Is this a sign that the pressure switch has failed?

Probably, these switches sense both low and high (over) pressure, so presumably it's not doing the former without some 'manual' help....(?)

That pile of plastic bits ? In the past someone has smashed the lock open because it had 'superlocked' them out.....

From "The Dark Side/Site":
http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/doors/doorlocks.html#opening

Well it's really just a "Blah Blah Blah / semi-amusing anecdotes / hackneyed stuff" piece of course.... but at least it ends:

"A P38 is a perfectly viable choice. The trick is to think of it as a plaything rather than a maintenance-free means of transport.
With that sort of mindset you shouldn't go far wrong."

  • Can't really argue with that, and to be fair I've done lots of tinkering in my 'shed' !!

Similarly on 16"/Boges so I also agree with those 'stock' wheels/shocks comments above.

But forget iSoft mpwphc: Might be fine for standard / more recent vehicles but the Golden Rule here is 'the older the P38 the quirkier the protocols used' ... claimed "ISO9141 compatibility" is simply not enough (except for more basic engine stuff)

Welcome mpwdhc: But RRTH probably likes your (amusing but very accurate) description of him....
( I think his plan now is simply to remove all non-americans from rrs.net; Yes he is 'racist' too....!)

If your bags do misbehave today at least you are definitely in the right/best place now for real advice...
I have only ridden in a spring P38 once and felt distinctly sea-sick....

Clive603 wrote:

Given smooth curves from both sensors it should be possible to get things to work OK. If the curves aren't smooth then there are probably flow issues around the sensor bodies requiring fiddle factors in the ECU to get a true representation of flow. So long as the conversion table for the Bosch gives same output a SAGEM under all conditions the ECU won't care.

-One of the things I noted was that the same Bosch MAF was often used for different cars but 'simply' using different-sized diameter intakes:
Without getting too far into the Fluid Mechanics I would suspect any 'fiddle factors' may not be linear enough though across all rev. ranges....(?)