I'm a bit outside Glasgow but I work in Hamilton, neither of which are especially close to Loanhead. I do need to go through there at some point and visit a friend's parents at some point though...

I could probably swing by on my way up to Dundee at some point?

It's the little plastic-and-metal deelie on a bracket just in front of the EAS box with a curly plastic pipe going off to the throttle body.

You'll actually feel it clicking if you put your hand on it.

Is that from around the plenum/air filter side of the engine? Could be the canister purge valve which clacks open and shut with a noise disturbingly like a slipped liner once the engine warms up...

There are lots of places you could be losing coolant from. Now the one I can't figure out is, how come I've got a huge puddle of leaking coolant under the vapouriser, but the tank hardly drops at all?

Mine has a "zero degree" tank where the neck of the tank with the multivalve sticks out the side of the spare wheel well, at about the 10 o'clock position as you look into the boot. It's well-protected by the rear axle and Panhard rod.

Blow out the side of one of the head gaskets just starting?

Mine doesn't have ETC and being GEMS is old enough to have had two-wheel but not four-wheel ETC. If your ABS block is ANR2238 it's non-ETC, ANR2239 is two-wheel ETC and that appears to be the only difference between the two.

They are pretty much right in the corner of each footwell, one on either side. They're right below the pollen filters, so when you withdrew them it's likely that some twigs and crap fell inside.

I think you've found your tick, then.

Heater recirc flap? Mine make some scary noises when they open and close.

LPGC would tell you more but they're only meant to be used for ten years or something.

I'd say your MPG figures are about right. These days "zero degree" tanks are about as big as the takes-up-your-boot cylinder - mine is 95 litres and should hold 75 litres but the way the filler valve has been set up it just clicks off at 80 litres from empty. Roughly 250 miles tank range and 50p/litre makes my 4.0 a practical daily driver. As well as being cheaper to run the emissions are a lot cleaner and the oil stays a lot cleaner.

The conversions are pretty easily DIYable by anyone handy enough with the spanners to run a P38. The biggest nightmare of fitting the old systems was running the fiddly copper pipe - new ones use plastic pipe that you could tie your boots with.

I wouldn't buy a used one from eBay because you don't know what kind of condition it's in and the tank will likely be nearly out-of-date anyway.

If it was the pump that was leaking it would be dripping straight down from the shaft and you'd have spots of coolant on the ground right under the front of the engine in the middle.

If you're throwing a new engine in, I reckon this one is about as good as you're going to find. That's who I bought my 4.0 off, and while it isn't perfect it's been good enough for 560 quid delivered, on my doorstep two days later.

Quite a few insurance companies don't seem to raise the price for up to a 20% increase, so around 160bhp would be a useful increase without affecting the insurance too much.

IIRC purple and green are the lock motor and pink and green are the superlock motor on the door latch pigtail. If it's the wiring in the door itself that ought to be in RAVE.

Yeah, there are at least two forums now that are P38-positive :-D Good writeup and some good pics, too.

So have we got an idea what sort of header the key receiver is looking for? Sounds like the sort of thing an "aftermarket" box could be created for.

I gave some folk access to the mod stick. You should now be able to nuke posts and spammers. Be careful with it, and remember backups get run at 3am :-)