rangerovers.pub
The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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riddlemethis wrote:

What about asking a question on registration about something that maybe only owners of a P38 would know, ie what is the left hand bottom corner relay for or something along those lines . Although its possible to google these it might deter those that cant be bothered.

I know there was one website - b3ta, maybe? - that required a simple literacy test involving things like "their, they're and there" and "could have/could of" type questions as part of the registration process :-D

Ah, bloody idiot that I am, not "logging in", "creating users".

I've enabled reCaptcha on signup and login, which ought to keep the riff-raff out. On login if you've done one before it should just be a checkbox "I'm not a robot".

Could I ask a favour and get some of you to try logging in as new users in a "Private Browsing" window (CTRL-SHIFT-P in Firefox), prefixing the username you choose with "test-" so I can just make sure I haven't locked it down too much?

Now that I've fixed sending emails I'm going to require a registration email, and also most likely a captcha. Flagging spam is fine, it gives me more data points to try and track down what's going on with the database :-)

I think the blue splodge is a lens flare. I haven't adjusted the headlamps yet, just fitted them. The beam pattern shining across the field looks "about right", but I'm a little surprised that the LEDs seem to be mounted on the sides of the lamp. I'd have expected top and bottom, to match the way a normal H4 works.

In answer to a couple of questions on a deleted spam thread, flagging posts sends me a message because it triggers a bug that crashes the database when you try to delete the thread.

Flaskbb is advanced but simple enough to work on, nice to use, adaptable, mostly reliable, and full of all sorts of weird edge-case behaviour, which is of course why it's eminently suitable for a Range Rover forum.

Now, I'm off to unwedge the database again ;-)

Doesn't look like that horrible a job to get the camshaft out, lots of dismantling but nearly all of it done from the top or front once the sump's off :-)

My heatshields are all a bit loose and clattery having rusted around where the nuts are welded in. I was thinking about just taking the whole bloody lot off and wrapping the manifolds in exhaust wrap to keep the temperatures down. Any thoughts? Good idea, terrible idea? I'm wondering if it'll maybe quieten down some of the noise from around there too.

I've got that. I stuck in half a litre of ATF mostly because I'd mauled the cap a bit and couldn't screw it back down (it was a pull-out cap and had a security seal to stop you unscrewing it, but I didn't notice that) and run up to Halfords about five miles away for the oil to do my last oil change and the oil came out very black. That's half a litre on top of the oil that was in, not half a litre total!

The tapping on startup now sounds "sharper" but it goes away a lot quicker. I am hoping that this and all the other clacks and clatters will go away when I do the camshaft, timing chain and oil pump.

I read somewhere - possibly http://www.lpgforum.co.uk - that you should gap them down to 0.7mm, and when I did that it made quite a difference. I'm still on the set of plugs I fitted not long after I got my P38, so I suspect it's probably due some.

It's weird, the driver's side lock in the DSE pops up but drops back down again just like the opposite of a mislock - when the door locks and unlocks! Trying to pull the button up from the inside it felt like the linkage was flexing rather than actually moving any of the working parts of the lock.

Should be possible to ban users, I can do it if I'm logged in as admin (there are reasons why I don't run around flaunting my admin rights, when I'm posting normally - and it's not modesty, oh hell no).

Isn't there a thing where you can end up with the coil lead plugged into the idle stepper socket and vice versa?

It burst one of the heater hoses running along the back of the engine, and sprayed coolant onto the red-hot exhaust manifold. When I opened the bonnet (clouds of steam) there were suddenly little bluey-green flames and acrid smoke...

Still, one bright point is that my #1 fob was turned around in a day by Duncan at Fobfix.com

Hmm, maybe a topic for handy folk you might not know about like that would be good.

I wish I'd snaffled some of the Dell 620s that hit the ewaste bin just before Christmas now...

Coolant, in mist conditions, is flammable. Just needs a hot exhaust

Can confirm, having set fire to the coolant in my Citroën CX during a "spirited blast" down the A90.

I cut the crimps carefully with a cut off wheel on a dremel which let me pull off the rubber hoses revealing nice hose barbs. Then just fitted new hose with good fuel hose clamps.

Might do that on mine.

The handbook says Dex III. Unless the oil looks really horrible I'd be inclined to leave it alone.

I wondered about a broken flexplate. Would it also cause an instant "GEARBOX FAULT" message? I don't know what the gearbox has in the way of sensors, can it tell if the input shaft and engine RPM are "reasonable looking"?