Renewing the O rings doesn't work, because the soft brass cone wears down and they don't sit square on the seat any more, and it all starts to leak badly.

I suspect that my NRVs are pretty tired, given how much air seems to leak out of the exhaust port when the compressor is off. It seems that we can't get new NRVs from anywhere. So, I wonder if we could use something like these with a groove turned in each hex to take a big fat O-ring to hold it firmly in the block?

There's a machine shop just up the road from me that offered to do mine for 75 quid a side, which seems reasonable. Even if the signs at the end of his farm track during Indyref suggest he was on the wrong side.

I could do with asking about getting bigger holes drilled in an EAS valve block and a bit of milling and turning done, so I might stop by next week.

As Gilbertd says, 5 degrees BTDC, it's in the owner's manual which is in RAVE.

Or, unless it is showing signs of head gasket leakage, just leave them on and worry about that if it ever does.

Which, since it seems to be blowing out the side of number 6 right below the spark plug, it most assuredly is :-)

Morat wrote:

I'm trying to imagine turning that thing. Do you stand on the tank and kick the bars out the side? :)

Split the rear brakes, for skid steer.

Yup, if you hit refresh five times it shows the captcha. I've filed a bug with the folks who write the forum software and I'm poking at it myself a bit.

How weirdly specific, refresh it five times?

I've logged a bug with the guys upstream. Weirdly the recaptcha thing only appears if you refresh five times, not sure what on earth is going on there.

Sorry you had that issue getting logged in again. Both your accounts are active and if you want to remove one just let me know in a PM.

The big long pipe goes to the brake pedal valve and is usually okay. You won't be able to turn any of the wheels with only one in the air because of the viscous coupling in the transfer case - well, you can, actually, but only very slowly and by applying a lot of force!

The MAF probably needs a clean anyway but I'd take just about anything the ECU says with a pinch of salt until the heads are done.

Upload it somewhere (imgur or whatever), then click on the "image link" button in the toolbar, fifth from the left, looks like a little hill. Paste in the URL.

Or you can upload and put .

The GS and GSA had inboard front calipers, great for freaking out the spotty youths in Kwkft. It was not until I owned a GSA myself that I worked out what the funny bent 17mm spanner in my dad's old toolbox was for :-)

They were just not that 'home mechanic' friendly, ever renewed frontpads? You had to dismantle half the front end.

On CXes - jack up, front wheel off, split the caliper, change pads, reassemble caliper, bleed front brakes.

On GSAs - remove spare wheel and heater cardboard tubes, split calipers, change pads, reassemble calipers, bleed front brakes. On RHD ones you needed a specially-bent 17mm spanner to reach one of the bolts.

There's a bit of hysteresis in the system so it doesn't constantly jiggle up and down trying to get to the exact value.

They are indeed Dunlop bags, with Dunlop stamped on both the rubber and plastic bits. But the boxes they come in and the safety and fitting leaflets are all branded Britpart.

If it's going to high height, it's trying to lower and failing. Check the plugs between the wiring loom and driver pack, and driver pack and coils - and try cycling the valves with the EAS software.

One or other of the rear corner solenoids isn't opening.

5 years old (5 weeks if Britpart)

The new Dunlops I bought came in Britpart boxes...

It's a bit of a weird one, and I can't even reproduce it on a test server with an exact copy of the current database :-/

Annoyingly I was in Edinbugger most of the week on a course, and could have swung by Gemm on my way home.

Re chopping holes in the boot floor, you should get a "0 degree" tank which has the neck on the outside, which you then poke out through a hole about 3" in diameter sawn into the spare wheel well.

Mine is definitely a bit smoother and has more poke with new plugs, gapped to 0.7mm.

Since it's a different topic, it might be better to create a different thread for it.

It's not like it costs anything :-)