I've logged a bug with the guys upstream. Weirdly the recaptcha thing only appears if you refresh five times, not sure what on earth is going on there.
Sorry you had that issue getting logged in again. Both your accounts are active and if you want to remove one just let me know in a PM.
The big long pipe goes to the brake pedal valve and is usually okay. You won't be able to turn any of the wheels with only one in the air because of the viscous coupling in the transfer case - well, you can, actually, but only very slowly and by applying a lot of force!
The MAF probably needs a clean anyway but I'd take just about anything the ECU says with a pinch of salt until the heads are done.
Upload it somewhere (imgur or whatever), then click on the "image link" button in the toolbar, fifth from the left, looks like a little hill. Paste in the URL.
Or you can upload and put .
The GS and GSA had inboard front calipers, great for freaking out the spotty youths in Kwkft. It was not until I owned a GSA myself that I worked out what the funny bent 17mm spanner in my dad's old toolbox was for :-)
They were just not that 'home mechanic' friendly, ever renewed frontpads? You had to dismantle half the front end.
On CXes - jack up, front wheel off, split the caliper, change pads, reassemble caliper, bleed front brakes.
On GSAs - remove spare wheel and heater cardboard tubes, split calipers, change pads, reassemble calipers, bleed front brakes. On RHD ones you needed a specially-bent 17mm spanner to reach one of the bolts.
There's a bit of hysteresis in the system so it doesn't constantly jiggle up and down trying to get to the exact value.
They are indeed Dunlop bags, with Dunlop stamped on both the rubber and plastic bits. But the boxes they come in and the safety and fitting leaflets are all branded Britpart.
If it's going to high height, it's trying to lower and failing. Check the plugs between the wiring loom and driver pack, and driver pack and coils - and try cycling the valves with the EAS software.
One or other of the rear corner solenoids isn't opening.
5 years old (5 weeks if Britpart)
The new Dunlops I bought came in Britpart boxes...
It's a bit of a weird one, and I can't even reproduce it on a test server with an exact copy of the current database :-/
Annoyingly I was in Edinbugger most of the week on a course, and could have swung by Gemm on my way home.
Re chopping holes in the boot floor, you should get a "0 degree" tank which has the neck on the outside, which you then poke out through a hole about 3" in diameter sawn into the spare wheel well.
Mine is definitely a bit smoother and has more poke with new plugs, gapped to 0.7mm.
Since it's a different topic, it might be better to create a different thread for it.
It's not like it costs anything :-)
I bought my tank from Dougie Martin in Westfield. He's got a garage there where he does LPG conversion, MOTs and stuff. Always very clean and tidy, with expensive stuff on the ramps. Simon at Angus Autogas in Arbroath is a bit further away but he's a big Range Rover nut too.
And as you say, there's LPGC of this parish.
Tell you what, even the headlamp flasher bit works properly. I've never seen a P38 like this, about the only thing not there that should be is the boot cover. Well, and the battery cover but I've never seen one of those outside of the brochure...
Gordon, am I on commission for the number I bring over from the other side? I make that 4 now lol
Oh man wouldn't that piss on RRTH's chips, an Achievement Badge system for poaching his users!
EDIT- cheesus, who'd have thought you can no longer buy new sidelight bulb holders for a P38?!
Aw bugger, really? Mine appear to both be knackered.
"GEARBOX FAILURE", "ABS FAILURE" and presumably "TRACTION FAILURE" are all pretty common faults to show up when it's running out of electricity.
Aha, it thinks it's in Paris - pretty reasonable since the server farm is in Roubaix.