Late diesels don't appear to have the dipstick on thirstymatics.
Of course if it's saying "GEARBOX OVERHEAT" and it's on a manual box, there's something profoundly weird going on.
(although if I was expected to spend most of my leisure time administering such a busy site as RR.net I would at least expect something from the commercial company that owns it).
Yeah, dammit, the site owner ought to be paying me to look after all this stuff!
Good to hear things are going well! I changed my subwoofer speakers with a pair of 6.5" speakers that I picked up from Bishop Audio. They might have a few more in stock.
I don't get why leaking NRVs would cause that. Surely if it's parked the solenoid valves are shut and no air will reach the springs?
He really is a dick, isn't he? I don't think I've had to ban anyone yet, that didn't have an email address at yandex.ru and an odd fascination with camgirls.
Mod Note: Let's maybe ease up a bit on the character assassination, eh?
The ROM appears to be in the memory addressing of $A000 to $FFFF. I have a document which has the memory mapping if that's useful to anyone? Assembly code and programming things like that is a bit beyond my skillset at the moment!
That would be right; the last 64 bytes of ROM are used as the interrupt and reset vectors (eight bytes, on 6809, which doesn't have all the extra goodies). So they're placed in ROM and when the chip is reset it looks at the 16-bit value at $FFFE to work out where to start running code. From there you just set up your disassembler to break it down into blocks.
Marty - I'm guessing your magic tool for poking values in the chip uses the on-chip debugger? What happens if you try to read values from $A000 to $FFFF, do you get anything sensible out?
Well I've already done most of the Ensoniq Mirage boot ROM and OS disk, and that's a 68C09... :-)
So KA suggests that it hasn't got a lock bit. I'd be really interested to see if you can suck the ROM image out of it.
Hmmm, so you'd need to get the chip decapped or find some way of reading out the OTP. I wonder if it's a flavour of HC11 that can be made to boot from an external ROM, and then flipped back to its "own" ROM, or for that matter if arbitrary code can be uploaded to it. That way it might be possible to upload something to RAM, jump to it, and read out the contents of the ROM.
Edit: It wouldn't be 68HC11K4 would it, and not KA? That's got certain implications for how you'd talk to the chip.
Martyuk wrote:
Yes, it would be lovely to be able to add some new features to the BECM, to add in some functions that over the years of experience of having a P38, we've all found would be useful... like and over temp warning on the dash, or a low coolant alert... And I'm actually pretty sure it would be possible, as I'm sure there are a couple of spare digital input pins on the logic board... the issue is being able to get a copy of the original coding, so that you could write the additions into it, and all of that, before reprogramming the CPU with it... Since there's not even a circuit diagram of the boards, yet alone someone kicking about with a copy of the BECM code, and the software to amend it, we are unfortunately a bit stuck...
What's the processor used in them, and how big a ROM does it have? It can't be that hard to disassemble it...
I don't think the seat wears so much as the cone that the rubber bit goes around. All three of mine have about half the cone eaten away.
You'd just replace the ECU with something equally more modern. There's bugger all to it.
Renewing the O rings doesn't work, because the soft brass cone wears down and they don't sit square on the seat any more, and it all starts to leak badly.
I suspect that my NRVs are pretty tired, given how much air seems to leak out of the exhaust port when the compressor is off. It seems that we can't get new NRVs from anywhere. So, I wonder if we could use something like these with a groove turned in each hex to take a big fat O-ring to hold it firmly in the block?
There's a machine shop just up the road from me that offered to do mine for 75 quid a side, which seems reasonable. Even if the signs at the end of his farm track during Indyref suggest he was on the wrong side.
I could do with asking about getting bigger holes drilled in an EAS valve block and a bit of milling and turning done, so I might stop by next week.
As Gilbertd says, 5 degrees BTDC, it's in the owner's manual which is in RAVE.
Or, unless it is showing signs of head gasket leakage, just leave them on and worry about that if it ever does.
Which, since it seems to be blowing out the side of number 6 right below the spark plug, it most assuredly is :-)
Morat wrote:
I'm trying to imagine turning that thing. Do you stand on the tank and kick the bars out the side? :)
Split the rear brakes, for skid steer.
Yup, if you hit refresh five times it shows the captcha. I've filed a bug with the folks who write the forum software and I'm poking at it myself a bit.
How weirdly specific, refresh it five times?