v8vroom wrote:
Gilbertd wrote:
The nut, or the thread on the bolt has probably been damaged when the broken UJ flew out from under the car. Last resort would be to use an angle grinder and cut it off but that would then mean you will have to take the output flange off the transfer case to replace the bolt.
The viscous coupling is a sealed unit filled with a silicone gel so you won't get any noise from it. Driving with one propshaft missing is a sure fire way of causing it to seize even if it wasn't already (which it almost certainly was). It connects the front and rear propshafts so you need to stop the rear from moving, either with the handbrake or with the gearbox in Park and the rear wheels on the ground. Then you try to move the front, usually by lifting one front wheel and seeing how much torque and over how long, you can move it. But that does assume you have a front propshaft connected. As you don't, you will need to do it with a socket and breaker bar on the nut in the centre of the flange the propshaft fits to.
New bolts have arrived but EVRi decided to lose my propshaft..which was due on Wednesday.
When bolting in the new propshaft, is it a straight 'bolt-on' job? I'm reading things online about balancing, etc, and how those can feel vibrations as the propshaft was not 'aligned'.
Also, the vehicle no longer goes into park - is this expected or another issue?
what i done with mine was lined up the weights on both props and bolted up if it vibrates just move it round one hole each time
as for not being able to select park the old prop might of hit the selector on side of gearbox just get someone to sit inside and select P while you look at the selector and see where it catches i had to bend mine back slightly with a bar when same happen to mine
there is a bit in RAVE about what way to set the chain and pump from TDC to take the slack up to stop hot start over certain milage
welcome to the group
hi folks not p38 related but today I was sorting out the throttle body on MY10 discovery4 and while it was off looked in side and saw both manifolds have splits in them
looks like a change of them on the cards
would anyone know if it a pig of a job or they easy like the p38?
thanks will take a look
would anyone know or where I could download a workshop manual for a 2010 Discovery 4 tdv6 ?
like the rave one for the p38 as always handy to have one
welcome to the group
hi folks sorry not been on much as I've disposed of my L320 sport i had
sad to say I've gotten my self a Discovery 4 3liter TDV6
hopefully you chaps and chapesses can still help me with advise if needed
they are the pipes for the ace bar
sadly not they are metal with nylon pipe to wrap around the rear axel
hi folks my L320 4.2 V8 2006 has got a ACE leak on the rear has anyone done a removal of the pipes if so what is the best way about doing the job
congratulations to you both
you got to have the ac working
just had new screen fitted to the sport today bloody stone chip cracked the screen in bottom of passenger side of the screen
been a busy boy by the looks of it richard
be glad when it all finished with
hi folks a friend of mine has some 225/60 R19 tyers on alloy rims they came off a Discovery 5 only done 100 miles they pirelli scorpions came as a winter set when he purchased his disco he asking 700 quid if anyone interested in them they have the pressure sensors in the valves also
@lez I'd keep it owning a range rover is like a drug habit whe. you got one cost money ti keep on road when you not got one you want one lol
could you not do the head gaskets your self ?
yeah if I can get a picture of the tow bar I will it shame it won't fit as would be handy to have one
was looking at the witter tow bar for mine if have to buy one
yeah if I remember the l322 is a sub frame
hi guys and girls would anyone know if a bolt on tow bar off a 2003 range rover vouge would fit my 2006 4.2 l320 sport I know the sport is a Discovery 3 chassis just wondering if the 2003 vouge model is same chassis base ?