that's ok the wire had rubbed on the casing looks like when it was last fixed or replaced the wires was pushed out the way properly
all fixed today had compressor off and found a broken wire on the solenoid other vent
the pump can be taken off and refurbed not many people do this now a days as it sometimes easier to source either new or a second hand one. the FIP is normally bosh one.
you can buy the seal kits for the pump (£20 off line last time i got a set ).
need a engine lock pin so you dont loose the timing on the chain. think it top dead center
just be warned the pump might come apart ok but could also be a pig to put back together again (plenty of vids on youtube about it).
once either refurbed or new pump is back in place you will need the timing kit so you know which way to turn the pump to take tension up on the chain
RAVE has a bit about it think it so many degrees one way for certain amount of miles.
hi folks got code C1A36 poping up electrical monitor.
General electrical failure.
could this point to a blocked vent valve ?
thanks David
got a code reader will have look see what comes up with.
sadly mine doesn't come with the info on the screen as it a GS model so it basic radio settings on the screen
have been looking at the comforder all terrain ones
thanks Gilbertd
I knew the 320 was a posh disco will have a look tomorrow and see what's going on
hi folks I know it not a p38 range rover.
my 2010 3ltr disco 4 is bringing up suspension fault it looks like the front has sagged down.
now I presume it would be the same set up as a p38 as it on air bags front and rear.
so was wondering is there a way I can put air in the system to check if the air bags are leaking?
could I also be able to check air pressure from the compressor
thank you for your help
hi folks got a MY10 discovery 4 3liter tdv6
need to change the tyers as they getting low.
what would people recommend as on road tyers at the moment but it is used down my horse field and with wet weather it will spin on the grass got stuck today and had in low range and still bogged down so on the hunt for some good tyers.
was thinking of a set of GT grabbers but wondered what people recommend
v8vroom wrote:
Gilbertd wrote:
The nut, or the thread on the bolt has probably been damaged when the broken UJ flew out from under the car. Last resort would be to use an angle grinder and cut it off but that would then mean you will have to take the output flange off the transfer case to replace the bolt.
The viscous coupling is a sealed unit filled with a silicone gel so you won't get any noise from it. Driving with one propshaft missing is a sure fire way of causing it to seize even if it wasn't already (which it almost certainly was). It connects the front and rear propshafts so you need to stop the rear from moving, either with the handbrake or with the gearbox in Park and the rear wheels on the ground. Then you try to move the front, usually by lifting one front wheel and seeing how much torque and over how long, you can move it. But that does assume you have a front propshaft connected. As you don't, you will need to do it with a socket and breaker bar on the nut in the centre of the flange the propshaft fits to.
New bolts have arrived but EVRi decided to lose my propshaft..which was due on Wednesday.
When bolting in the new propshaft, is it a straight 'bolt-on' job? I'm reading things online about balancing, etc, and how those can feel vibrations as the propshaft was not 'aligned'.
Also, the vehicle no longer goes into park - is this expected or another issue?
what i done with mine was lined up the weights on both props and bolted up if it vibrates just move it round one hole each time
as for not being able to select park the old prop might of hit the selector on side of gearbox just get someone to sit inside and select P while you look at the selector and see where it catches i had to bend mine back slightly with a bar when same happen to mine
there is a bit in RAVE about what way to set the chain and pump from TDC to take the slack up to stop hot start over certain milage
welcome to the group
hi folks not p38 related but today I was sorting out the throttle body on MY10 discovery4 and while it was off looked in side and saw both manifolds have splits in them
looks like a change of them on the cards
would anyone know if it a pig of a job or they easy like the p38?
thanks will take a look
would anyone know or where I could download a workshop manual for a 2010 Discovery 4 tdv6 ?
like the rave one for the p38 as always handy to have one
welcome to the group
hi folks sorry not been on much as I've disposed of my L320 sport i had
sad to say I've gotten my self a Discovery 4 3liter TDV6
hopefully you chaps and chapesses can still help me with advise if needed
they are the pipes for the ace bar
sadly not they are metal with nylon pipe to wrap around the rear axel