well done mate do you think you could get all the 8's
sorry was I forgot to state it come from a diesel p38
also got some cream leather seats they from a older model than I had so don't have the SRS wires in the base just the heated seat wires
https://ibb.co/cxQb4vV "enter image title here")
would any one be interested in this alloy rad 100 quid before I scrap if cam off my old off roader but no longer have it or p38
location norfolk
glad you got it sorted out and back up and running again
mad-as wrote:
i have small stick on ones that fit the p38 , they stop the noise when the window is just cracked , no thumping in the ears
PS stuck on properly they will not come off , use the prepping fluid .
thats the sort of thing I'm looking for I normally have window open a little when driving
a few people have said that they don't work to well on RR
the ones I was looking at had the clips that go in to the window channel I wasn't to sure it they would be ok or weather to go for the ones that stick on the side of the door trim
hi folks I'm thinking about putting wind deflectors on our RRS (I know not a p38) just wondering what are people's go to brands been looking at a few just not sure if to go for the stick on ones or the ones that come with the holders ?
JeremyAldermartenQC wrote:
karlos01 wrote:
" to undo the bolt you will need a special socket and mark the pump top lid and the side so you can relive the parts back together as it doesn't take much for it to be out and either run to rich or not rum at all
you will need a 7mm triangular socket to remove the securing screw."Thanks karlos01. I'm only removing the top cover. I believe that it is the next bit down (the actuator, which has elongated screw holes in it) that affects the running of the engine, the gasket there being called the 'positioning gasket'.My understanding is that the top cover (which has small circular holes) only goes on in one position and does not need marking. Only the tamper-proof screw goes through both the top cover and the actuator; the top cover has three short T30 screws into the top of the actuator. Thanks for confirming that the 7mm socket is the one I need. That is what I thought.
the tamper screw does go through the top and middle sections t30 screws on the top I would still mark both just incase something moves out of line it is a p38 after all lol I marked mine just to be on the safe side
to undo the bolt you will need a special socket and mark the pump top lid and the side so you can relive the parts back together as it doesn't take much for it to be out and either run to rich or not rum at all
you will need a 7mm triangular socket to remove the securing screw
no I don't think it does as some of that voltage goes back to the battery
welcome to the group as people have already mentioned there are some knowledgeable people in the group and I'm sure you pass on your knowledge to
juts remember to mark the too of the pump with the engine when you take the top off the way you can line it up nd shouldn't have to use a dial to reset the pump
it can be done just watch the video a few times
yeah it will have a maf sensor would be just under the inlet manifold
I would get it fixed/replaced if you know someone that way you know it shouldn't fail on it
can be done by attaching a gauge to the air tank line
You will have to connect it to the blue pipe from the compressor. But it will not be causing a soft fault. If you take the blue pipe off the compressor and put your finger over the outlet and it blows your finger off no matter how much pressure you put on it, air pressure is good enough. If you can stop it compressor needs refurb. There are no fault codes for compressor operation. It either gives enough air to charge the system or it doesn't.
have a look around the injector pump and the injectors for a sign of leaking first mate
the main places the injector pump leaks is the top seal middle one or the head one the head one is the one with the pipes to the injectors