Thanks Richard, always a hlping hand. Grrr ... will pass it where it goes - and this solves also the question of what was clipped in the underside of the dash, which was next he he ...
Sorry me bad I thought it was a Thor, saw after the orange blinkers ....
Leolito without looking in the ETM just a guess: fuel filler release button?
Yes, KCR, you were right spot on! I've found the switch and indeed it is that one! (BTW still owe you an email for the parts!)
Now gents I've got another question .... while looking at photos such as this:
I've noticed -regardless is RHD, I've seen several other photos - the main loom going to the central console - where the yellow corrugated cable protection makes an "Y" close to the steering, the cables go "above" the metal frame, where in mine they have remained below. Maybe I did not paid attention when was refitting the dash ...
Any of you who has gone thru the same pain care to remember if it makes any difference at all? Should I pass the loom above just in case something remains short somewhere?
I've promised photos, promise I will make :-)
Nice ride!
How is that engine going comparing to the 'standard' Thor? Anything interesting worth sharing?
Nice find!
Well ... I do not have photos of the (partial) result, but I am more than glad to announce to the fellas in the pub that after 2.5 years I have managed to refit the dash to my beloved! I take this as the first serious step to get her finally back on the road!
Obviously missing most of the fittings, and dont remember what goes where, but luckily there are plenty photos I made and also on the web that help somewhat.
I do have one that puzzles me a lot though ... on the left of the steering wheel (LHD, remember), coming from the loom that is zip tied to the metal "frame" of the dash, there is a flat black 4-pin connector with only 2 cables, one green and one black. Any idea what that might be?
Will make sure to take photos next time ... I was so thrilled to see the thing back in place I forgot!
Agree with Garvin, no need to use OE studs in this case :-)
As a regular driver of a car trailer 9and passed the B+E tests accordingly), I think whoever thinks to extend the possibility of driving such convoy without proper practice and verification is nothing short of an idiot.
Then on the other hand, you guys in the island seem to have had (and still do!) your fair share of dim-witted chaps in charge ...
i have never seen one "healthy" and working ... if any of you have such, I'd be delighted to see even a photo of how is the underside - that "unfolds" by itself when you open the lower tailgate ... all the ones I've seen are broken, some VERY broken.
Holy bright lights mod! Great work!
Mine was much simpler ... I just took couple spares of the underseat light and cut a hole in the boot panels ... so simple and primitive I am ashamed to show it - also because I've clipped the wrong wire and now one is "on" all the time so I need to re-do it lol
Gosh, I have to put up the B.S. sign! :-)
Maeshall, very practical but oh gosh, it is horrible to see :-)
You gave me an idea though, it could be mounted "temporarily" ... will look into it :-)
I used the standard plug as Gilbertd said.
I have no DAB, don't even know what it is lol
Agree, great post and great "this you must know" story for all dedicated P38 owners.
I lived (suffered) for long time with +100 temps, loss of coolant, bla bla before I went thru the entire circuit with new and proven components. A good, in order V8 should not see more than 95-100 in the most demanding condiitons ...
Marshall, you're the man! Thanks for the useful links! :-)
Ah, in my case (Pioneer X3500) also the ISO connectors were a direct fit to the radio, only the CD changer (which was discarded as no longer working proper) and the steering wheel (for which an adapter is available) connectors are not an usable option...
Paul, it goes straight in, provided you mount first its 'cradle' (should come in the box together with the radio).
Since the shape of the OE radio is not squareish, there are available some "inserts" to fit on the side.
See here
https://www.cartronics.co.uk/media/rangerover%20radio%20replace/New%20radio%20in%20Range%20Rover%20using%20original%20amplifer.jpg
Also, try the trailer with a different towing vehicle to see if the same thing happens - same could apply if you can try another trailer on the P38 ...
I forgot you guys are on the wrong side of the road ...
I think after the dash (top) is off, if you loose all the metal structure there is somehow a way to make it pass, also because you have access to the box perimeter bolts/nuts. The AC lines might be a problem if they dont 'wiggle' enough.
I cannot today, but maybe tomorrow will pass in the garage where I keep mine (still 'naked') and will take a good look underneath for both sides.
The extension limit only with OE type shocks ... I am still not sure whether to mount them, but I have a set of TF (std) which nevertheless seem to be longer than the originals ....
My trailer unfortunately does not have the stands, I am thinking (if I keep it) to add them.
In 'extreme' cases I have been using couple of bottle jacks, cheap and simple, but not always have to time to set them up ...