I had a similar case in a rear window, motor would work when powered, lock/lamp etc. would work.
It proved to be a bad contact in the BeCM.
Great!
I hope the evening was better spent enjoying a beer or other beverage of choice! :-)
Sorry I had a day from hell and returned only a while ago. Will check tomorrow.
In any case from memory, a non-functioning or "triggered" inertia switch can also negate engine start, nothing else.
I think your errors could be from something else.
Uhm, I remember playing with this as I used the inertia switch to make a poor's man anti-theft while it was in the old garage.
I can look physically at the wiring in the afternoon, but by seeing quick in the ETM one wire sends the cut-off signal to engine electrics (should be 1, white/orange), one is the signal to BeCM (should be 2, white/purple), and 3 is the signal to the fuel pump cut-off (white/blue).
I remember making a switch between two of these, don't remember which though, and you basically "lie" to the car about what state the inertia switch is.
If you are bold, and have no time, clear the footwell area and start hacking away no fear, worse case scenario is "does not start" :-)
Yep, but after six years it's probably worth taking a look at replacing the airbags. They may be OK but if you're jacking it all up and messing with the pipes on a system that is already deflated... you may as well?
Indeed you are right, but here in the far hole of "Europe" everything is hard, takes ages to deliver, and is more expensive.
So one thing at the time ... domestic problems delayed any action, except I did check the springs and they are pretty fine so this is rule out. I also noticed the front does not raise as well, which means air line.
After a lot of digging, I found the "air harness" runs together air to tank, air to rear left spring, and rear right together in the chassis, and split around where the exhaust is.
Now I have a non-original that has a broken clamp and it was in the list of things to fix since awhile. It might have moved a bit too much and touch the line, and burst it - or them. Sounds plausible.
This week will get some ramps and drive it over them, at least to get my head/hands in the area and "feel" the pipes.
More to come, but as I guess, it is not the car's fault, once again ... explain that to a non-P38 believer :-)
I do not remember an option in the Nano to "activate" seats, do not even remember if they know in the "inputs"/"outputs" as a testing option.
I am afraid will have to be by the old fashion system of clearing up spaces in the connector for a probe lamp, and see if something happens when you switch any adjustment. Looks like a fun job ...
What have I've done today?
I was in a rush with my mind turned off, and I went over a speed bump quite faster than I should have.
There was a nice loud "PAM" from the rear and the slowly sinking feeling of a rear axle going to the bump stops.
I was already late and with a lot of engagements for the day so I just returned 2km home and parked it for the day.
What awaits for me tomorrow?
Will jack up the rear axle and see what is the damage, but I ask what should I expect? All the rear sagged, could both springs (they are like 6 yrs old) have gone at the same time? Or if one goes, the EAS lowers the other side as well?
No faults or beeps on the dashboard ....
I was thinking during the day an air line perhaps, but I seem to recall they are independent to each wheel ...
Oh well, not the car's fault in any case :-(
I had to re-read, I thought you wrote "peasant" and was like "wow, and only a headlight pointing up?" :-))))
Try to see if you shake the headlight, whether it wobbles or not, this will give you an idea of the mounting status.
I will happily wait, don't worry.
I am making some order in the garage to free space, and finally came across something to offer to you guys.
Years ago (before roaming the pub), while looking for headlights in better condition, I came across a pair Phil was offering, in very good condition, and I bought them.
Much to my disappointment, I've learned afterwards RHD lenses and reflectors are not interchangeable with LHD, hence I cannot use them. I put them away and decided I would deal later with the issue, then Brexit came and I left it there and I could not eBay them easily.
Any of you guys might be interested? Lenses are very good, only one little chip on one, reflectors are good, and the fittings are all there, not broken or destroyed. Like all things Phil offers, there are good headlights.
The entire affair so far costed me around 150 euro, if I could get that money back I'd be happy. We can arrange how to ship them in the most economically way possible. Here photos, I can make more if needed.
https://1drv.ms/u/s!Aog9VsSxOLcFmhoSEzq6Ynzc5bnU
https://1drv.ms/u/s!Aog9VsSxOLcFmhw1RCruIQSd1lUS
https://1drv.ms/u/s!Aog9VsSxOLcFmhuXYgxMaciz-nfM
I use this instead of opening a new topic, since the question is fairly simple.
I have a P38 license, and I can see no probs my Thor engine ECU. However, recently I connected to a friend's GEMS but I was unable to see any engine faults, or communicate at all with the engine ECU. Others do work. Can I rule out licensing issues to the older variant and focus on a technical/electrical issue?
Replaced the earth from engine to bonnet, looked fairly corroded. Looks like an area of attention.
Hard to find a long strip so I joined two with a bolt.
Excited by this progress, I had a thick cable laying around with suitable ends and I added to the same engine bolt another earth directly to the battery.
Then I would risk it.
But I would talk with them beforehand, don't know if they take your engine as core or what, just to make sure there are no ... surprises or misunderstandings.
My CKP crapped out last Friday.
I started from the workshop to go collect a few things, I had a busy schedule, but after 5min run in the traffic light it died on me. As I have been having troubles with the LPG system lately, I thought it was that but no, cranking and no starting at all. Thought fuel pump as well ....
Anyway, back it up on a side street, went back to the service, got the mate's T4 and went home to collect the nano and see what comes up, and also if it picks up revs on cranking (suggestion from a mechanic friend).
By the time I was back, 1h later, it started up right away no problem. I was baffled.
My friend says "CKP, gets some shit on it when hot, cools down and it works. Change it".
While my colleague checks for availability, I was thinking how to get home and get the "spare" (wife's old Micra) at least for runaround and get work done.
I was advised to leave rangie there and take the bus or taxi. Stubbornly, I decided to risk the way home, slowly (10km).
After 7km on the equivalent of your "M25" it dies again, and this time engine warmed up enough that I would have had to wait like two/three hours .... on the shoulder of the ring road, bad idea.
Called my mate towing truck and returned to the workshop amid laughter and shame thrown by all participants.
First time I ever had the RR on the tow truck.
Part ordered, strangely it was in stock (the RRP38 is a rare care at these latitudes), surprisingly cheap (55eur retail price, I got it discounted), some spanner work (thanks EAS, and a little jacking assistance), et voila'!
Funnily, it was in my "preventive maintenance list" since a long time ... oh well, at 263k km and after three years sitting, I cannot fault it. Pity I had to add the tow truck to it. Shame.
The worst part was having to have the P38 trucked half of the city, fueling the usual comments "ah these land rovers ..."
Well, yes and no, you have also deteriorating further hand and block which could be reconditioned and saved for another engine in the future. Do not know the policy of V8D (still pondering on how I will get my engine done and how), but from a mechanical perspective it would be a pity to totally ruin what left.
Sorry, I am a romantic :-)
If you expect to use the car these 6 months, maybe not as "intensive" use as originally planned, Richard's idea is not bad at all. And will save you some money on the trailer trip to V8D!
Well, I am not sure because if you say in #3 pedal is "soft" at first start I would be tempted to consider an "air in the system" problem (like I have, I have read and re-read the RAVE procedure but I can't get it right, alone is nearly impossible it seems), but the pump running at each press it could be a separate problem.
As StrangeRover has said, it is an expected matter if life of the canister goes out.
You should make sure as Richard said, you got no air in the system at all.
Air in the brake system can come from the ... air :-) but it could be also not just air: brake fluid is hygroscopic and it does attract moisture and water molecules in the air (there is a membrane in the reservoir to equalize pressure), water/moisture content which besides lowering boiling point of the fluid and diminish brake performance, plays havoc with caliper pistons and seals "from inside". Considering caliper pistons have already a rough time from crud "from the outside" which can get past the caliper seals, once they get rusted you can expect more trouble, and more expensive as well :-)
Correct, the tacky/gummy peeling actually falls off and reveals the "normal" plastic underneath.
For the "wood" parts, I use normal car polish, the parts ones I can't remove I do it by hand with a microfiber rag, the ones I managed to take out, directly with the polishing machine. With the machine comes much better, most scratches and scuffs from use simply disappear...
Kurt, don't worry, the case was eventually for a friend who as you see is not much in need :-)
Other parts from now I will not go crazy for, I have other projects to finish first. Thanks!
Do you happen to know whether the two items are on detachable plugs ?
Pierre, you can unplug all upper switches (including lights), the clock power/bulb, ans air sensor, and remove the console as a whole. Depending on your audio system you might take the radio as well in its cradle. Then you can work with a bottle handy! :-)
...the surface of the black panel has gone a bit sticky and can't be cleaned properly...
The plastic surface deteriorates like many other cars from that era (and some more recent as well), and it cannot be cleaned or repaired - sanding and repainting with a quality plastics paint is the only solution.
Kurt! I have not forgotten you, still need to address the topic of the luggage case!
I actually would like a nice one, because mine was literally broken (some dork tried to remove it forgetting there is a retaining lug underneath the instrument binnacle surround), the one in the other donor car is stained from a leaking rearview mirror, and someone "enlarged" a switch hole to fit the LPG switch.
I have a nice one, but is a special edition 25th year or something, with a plate, and dont want to mess it up.
I have a good guy that makes wood type finish, and the results are pretty good, but he has not gotten the right shade of "brown" to match the original factory look.
I do agree on the console "cheeks", and must absolutely be on leather and wood ... gorgeous.
While I haven't updated the "long project" topic, I can mention I have already clocked up 1000km since returning the thing to life, and I have already suffered a few cases, first two-three were failed started and trouble brought by the LPG valve on the reducer, mostly due to debris (I had also now to change the tank as it "expired"). After two filters and constant bother when hot, I decided directly to replace the valve and be done with it (Romano, around 20 euro and some spanner work).
Since then, all well with the LPG. I want to replace the reducer as well, is got over 120k km and while I used the rebuild kit I feel is past its best.
Last Friday I had the first ever real breakdown in a P38 ... but I will narrate it separately, too much shame!
Richard, that is so darn clever, brilliant and simple. You make me feel like I haven't employed any brain cells at all on the matter ...
Using a splitter in the pipe means also you have less stuff to worry about besides the switch, like the ducting, which is a bother on the way.
I feel elated :-)
I have no exact idea to which parts you refer (sorry), but I can offer:
These along with others I have it the workshop manual in Section 06 Torque Values, 57 Steering, page 60 or 1361 in my PDF file.
Have fun!