Thanks Richard ... as I have all the cabling still "loose" by the pillar in proximity of the dreaded C0229, will do some testing when I have time, and refer here.

Well, it certainly has a certain "old school" feeling to it, and not quite flashy as some of the newer platforms (which are also more "touch-friendly"). Personally, I could not care less, as I am after information not fancyness, but yes, in some moment you will be "pushed" to update :-)
Thanks for having done that all work in the first place anyway!
Might send you some comment if I find something interesting to add.

I know this is a closed issue and I apologize to REDP38 for a partial hijack, but since the topic is interesting and relevant, and I do not value my question important enough to warrant another thread ...

So, the topic of the A/C request and A/C grant between ECM and HeVAC has been mentioned a few times here, and is clear before "switching on", the HeVAC ECU exhanges request/grant status with the ECM.

The ETM describes both signals as "active low", but my question is ... what are they exactly? Plus? Earth?
In the ETM I see both in Section K4 page 8, pins 13 and 14 on connector C0793 ... is there any way to override those, giving the HeVAC ECU an "always grant" signal and thus controlling the activation of the compressor from the driver?
You may certainly ask "why would you want to do that?" And I would answer "I like to be in control of the operation of my machinery, thank you" ... :-)

Hi Dave, welcome to the den of P38s.

A little hijack - Simon very very nice website! I will dig into it when time allows, is packed with lots of info!

Great Richard! Congrats to that faithful companion you got there!

Hi, I have the Heko on my RRP38, they have clips and go in the window channel. They are let's say acceptable.
I would like to try something else though, I had in the past ClimAir on the D1 and they were better built.

Could one of the codes be for GCC/Arab countries?

The electrochromatic mirrors are very expensive regardless of brand/model ... I did read somewhere they are no longer produced for the RRP38, so anything you can actually get your hands on is the last of the last ...

The tailgate "rubbish holder" is actually a fair idea, but it does require a lot of sheetmetal trimming to make it work ... and nevermind the usefulness, you can store only something long/large, light, and not bulky, like an umbrella or triangle ...

A weird one ... putting back together the centre console (cubby you call it?), it finally came time to fit the rear vents, old set I had was broken.
I've noticed they fit with screws on two tabs on the lower part of the vents, from the sides, but INSIDE the console, and I seem not to be able to find an access to it.... looked in the Workshop Manual but while it details how to remove the vents in the dash, does not say anything about the rear ones in the console ... any ideas?
Will NOT make a hole in the leather, before you suggest that ha ha

Not necessarily you should replace, try first to calibrate it, or use the Nano to see it is moves within the parameters.

Wandering out of P38 territory, I have a friend with a 1992 Classic and his daughter got hit by a bonehead, damaging the front right area (driver's side for you that drive on the wrong side of the road).
We managed to find everything but the indicator ... they seem hard to come by at a decent price. Anyone has one laying around?

I always looked at these things with interest, but also as above I believe this is only for Diesels.
Same for the "gearbox", it has some stuff on the sides.
Butcher it and try it!

Hi jacckk, I made the same job earlier this year and I used open-cell foam used for car insulation. Any good car-audio shop could have it, or search online there are lots of options. No thicker than 5-6mm (even if the foam, being open cell, compresses).

Greetings to all of you in this nice place!
Looking forward to a good 2022 to everyone!

Hi fellas been away long got much work elsewhere and little time, but I have managed to get the dash in, console and switches/buttons, radio and hevac and lo and behold most of it works! Still got to take some photos but ... getting there.
Got a couple questions though:

• switches: most if the "green" small bulbs are gone, I was horrified to find out they cost over 8gbp apiece! My my ... any alternatives you have tried?
• instrument cluster. I've fitted the cluster to a new dash (mine was warped) and the cluster fits ... funny, like too far back which means too much "inside" its place. This leaves gaps especially on the sides, which once you fit the surround (the one with the fuel cap opener) it looks awful. Tried fitting another couple times just to make sure I did not bend anything out of place, but still ... all 4 screws tight without issues. What has gone wrong?

All going well, I am left with this "problem" above so I can fit the steering wheel and steering column covers, a few odds and ends and get it out of the garage, insurance, MOT and then to sort out the rest, but at least to become mobile...

Hi there!
I think there is not comparison, this place is the place to be :-)

That is not bad at all! Cheers!

Nice find...saw it time ago and decided 18 pounds was just too much. I've instead given the spring to be coated with new zinc and hope will be fine ...

Wow ... you really know how to spend a day lol :-)

On mine, the bronze inner part of a couple of valves in the valve block were worn, too much to hold air, and it was leaking from there. I know it might be a rare case, but I would have never guessed it ... that part is not available, and it has to be sourced from some another "healty" donor block.

DavidAll, thanks for the photos! Will reroute and update!

Garvin where did you get new steering wheel switches? Are they still available?

Thanks Richard, always a hlping hand. Grrr ... will pass it where it goes - and this solves also the question of what was clipped in the underside of the dash, which was next he he ...