nice finds! I've also got to look for such tray and kit, although not the most functional is a sign of a bygone era :-)
I would not bother with an unless you plan to use it in anger, or leave it to some heir .... I replaced mine with a shitpart (was in a hurry after the fan disintegrated and took the lower third of the radiator with it), and it works fine and never seen more than 87-89 deg C after it, while before I would not see any less than 95-97 deg C ...
Sorry, I see this only now.
My 4.6 Thor is with a flexi under the heatshield, my parts Thor also, and a mate with another 4.6 as well.
Also, the material do not look to be cast iron, but steel. Might have to do as to why it has a flexi joint ...
Danke!
Will do so ...
Great work! With the engine properly rebuilt, you might even save on fuel as it becomes more efficient to run.
Any specific work on the heads, or they are rebuilt to standard spec?
Such activity is somewhere in my future plans, but will see when (mine sips coolant almost daily).
Might contact you in private to ask some details about the operation.
My German friend, the Jansen site is quite comprenhensive, but did not find anything. Will search more careful in the future.
I can guess ... can it be you have a "half-electric" seat? I have seen this from other manufacturers ... say fore-aft is electric, but the backrest is manual, something like that?
I am also going to look for this clip, absolutely.
I have access to a friend with a scanner and 3D printer, in case I find a part to use as basis.
Another day without useful progress, managed to raise the P38 enough to access the rear pipes but visual inspection does not tell me anything meaningful.
In the afternoon I was going to look at it again in more detail, but I started to feel very weak and lo and behold I ran a test and came back positive for the damn covid. So now I am more or less dead in bed.
I will try to put the thing back together one of these days, and take it to a friend with a workshop, don't have the strength to crawl down and out of the beast.
Any tips to inflate manually the EAS to whatever extent possible, at least not to go around on the bumpstops like any lowrider of bygone era?
I obviously do not have a manual inflation kit and stupidly never got one and now an order will take weeks.
The compressor I hear it rumbling, but it could be not pumping and on its way out.
What course of action sounds more reasonable?
1) use nano to open all valves and put the "home compressor" nozzle on the pipe to the air tank (or dryer?), and then send to highway or normal with nano and see. The unplug the ECU to prevent any reset or adjustment.
2) send manually air thru the "home compressor" to each one of the four corners and see what happens, and then plug them back in in the valve block, unplug eas ecu to prevent rest/adjustment
this was not the time for this problem, unfortunately
I think the pic is from a D2 or something else, see the inner retractable curtains the P38 does not have.
I am also interested in this, my refurbish did not include the surround and it is noticeably different.
Nice work!
Been there ... nightmarish ah ah ah
You might want to put some additional insulation while your queen is "naked", but do not overdo it - the fit of the carpets and other things is very precise from factory (word!). I put a layer too thick in mine and I had all sorts of issues to refit some of the trim in the proper position ....
I had a similar case in a rear window, motor would work when powered, lock/lamp etc. would work.
It proved to be a bad contact in the BeCM.
Great!
I hope the evening was better spent enjoying a beer or other beverage of choice! :-)
Sorry I had a day from hell and returned only a while ago. Will check tomorrow.
In any case from memory, a non-functioning or "triggered" inertia switch can also negate engine start, nothing else.
I think your errors could be from something else.
Uhm, I remember playing with this as I used the inertia switch to make a poor's man anti-theft while it was in the old garage.
I can look physically at the wiring in the afternoon, but by seeing quick in the ETM one wire sends the cut-off signal to engine electrics (should be 1, white/orange), one is the signal to BeCM (should be 2, white/purple), and 3 is the signal to the fuel pump cut-off (white/blue).
I remember making a switch between two of these, don't remember which though, and you basically "lie" to the car about what state the inertia switch is.
If you are bold, and have no time, clear the footwell area and start hacking away no fear, worse case scenario is "does not start" :-)
Yep, but after six years it's probably worth taking a look at replacing the airbags. They may be OK but if you're jacking it all up and messing with the pipes on a system that is already deflated... you may as well?
Indeed you are right, but here in the far hole of "Europe" everything is hard, takes ages to deliver, and is more expensive.
So one thing at the time ... domestic problems delayed any action, except I did check the springs and they are pretty fine so this is rule out. I also noticed the front does not raise as well, which means air line.
After a lot of digging, I found the "air harness" runs together air to tank, air to rear left spring, and rear right together in the chassis, and split around where the exhaust is.
Now I have a non-original that has a broken clamp and it was in the list of things to fix since awhile. It might have moved a bit too much and touch the line, and burst it - or them. Sounds plausible.
This week will get some ramps and drive it over them, at least to get my head/hands in the area and "feel" the pipes.
More to come, but as I guess, it is not the car's fault, once again ... explain that to a non-P38 believer :-)
I do not remember an option in the Nano to "activate" seats, do not even remember if they know in the "inputs"/"outputs" as a testing option.
I am afraid will have to be by the old fashion system of clearing up spaces in the connector for a probe lamp, and see if something happens when you switch any adjustment. Looks like a fun job ...
What have I've done today?
I was in a rush with my mind turned off, and I went over a speed bump quite faster than I should have.
There was a nice loud "PAM" from the rear and the slowly sinking feeling of a rear axle going to the bump stops.
I was already late and with a lot of engagements for the day so I just returned 2km home and parked it for the day.
What awaits for me tomorrow?
Will jack up the rear axle and see what is the damage, but I ask what should I expect? All the rear sagged, could both springs (they are like 6 yrs old) have gone at the same time? Or if one goes, the EAS lowers the other side as well?
No faults or beeps on the dashboard ....
I was thinking during the day an air line perhaps, but I seem to recall they are independent to each wheel ...
Oh well, not the car's fault in any case :-(
I had to re-read, I thought you wrote "peasant" and was like "wow, and only a headlight pointing up?" :-))))
Try to see if you shake the headlight, whether it wobbles or not, this will give you an idea of the mounting status.
I will happily wait, don't worry.
I am making some order in the garage to free space, and finally came across something to offer to you guys.
Years ago (before roaming the pub), while looking for headlights in better condition, I came across a pair Phil was offering, in very good condition, and I bought them.
Much to my disappointment, I've learned afterwards RHD lenses and reflectors are not interchangeable with LHD, hence I cannot use them. I put them away and decided I would deal later with the issue, then Brexit came and I left it there and I could not eBay them easily.
Any of you guys might be interested? Lenses are very good, only one little chip on one, reflectors are good, and the fittings are all there, not broken or destroyed. Like all things Phil offers, there are good headlights.
The entire affair so far costed me around 150 euro, if I could get that money back I'd be happy. We can arrange how to ship them in the most economically way possible. Here photos, I can make more if needed.
https://1drv.ms/u/s!Aog9VsSxOLcFmhoSEzq6Ynzc5bnU
https://1drv.ms/u/s!Aog9VsSxOLcFmhw1RCruIQSd1lUS
https://1drv.ms/u/s!Aog9VsSxOLcFmhuXYgxMaciz-nfM