I took my dash out without removing the steering column. Now I do not remember how to put it back together after 3 years, but that is another problem :-)
I left the metal structure in place, with a dremel I just made a cut on the lower side enabling me to remove the heater matrix laterally, without issues. After that I rejoined the metal "corner" and that is ... is not structural.
Only if you want the heater box out (say, to change the AC evaporator) , it does need to come out, and this does mean taking the the steering column out for clearance.
Plenty space to fiddle with ducting and fans' housing, if it comes time for such repairs as well.
When can those be found? Mine are knackered ...
I had a similar issue on an Audi that had wear on the tube that "holds" the (detachable) tow ball. That wear is noticeable is you grab the ball and shake it, even uncoupled. Might be a similar issue?
Is been a while I have not towed with mine (sigh), but I do recall a smooth and proper 'towing ride'. Miss some HP on inclines, but that is understandable ...
One thing I never liked is when loading/unloading, the rear of the car lifts alarmingly, to the point of almost lifting the wheels ftom the floor. I never liked it since I was worried on the capability of the EAS height sensors to resist the extension without issues ... I will need to think of something when I get restarted with this, to "lock" the trailer preventing the movement...
Not that easy ... there could be a lot of factors making a fault show up.
The A/C is independent of the fan operation, its engagement dependant on other conditions (engine operation, pressure in the refrigerating circuit, etc.).
When you say the fan ... which one (you got two), have you run all the speeds in manual?
Do you actually hear the compressor kicking in and the fans (engine bay) running?
Any very very very kind soul that would be willing to endeavor in getting this item from this fella in Worcester, put it in a box or wrap it, and send it to my courier in Dartford, Kent?
Certainly all costs would be covered, and whatever compensation (if liiiiitle!!) will be covered as well :-)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/144117833343?hash=item218e179e7f:g:IkIAAOSwAEdg9Bm3
Reason is ... is considerably lower than most places that sell this online, I guess also because of the collection in person requirement ...
Thanks!
The plastic lens pieces don't look really designed to be taken out LOL
I have a light bar lying around there for camera testing purposes and will look into it, and refer.
Nice positioning for the camera, good.
about the earth strap to the bonnet, makes good check to see if not rotten, if so, is quite ineffective.
I've rerouted mine from the engine directly to the neg lead on the battery.
Hi, sorry for being late been something hectic lately ... here's Marty's photo he sent me a while ago, for reference.
I don't have it mounted yet but after a million thoughts I decided to copy Marty's idea to mount in the recess of the handle for the upper tailgate. Basically, cut a hole in fit it - with proper fitting - in the middle of this:
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/qTQAAOSwb71enCc-/s-l640.jpg
He claims once you get used to the lens being in the middle of the handle, life becomes easy again :-)
For fitting there, you would need to remove all upper trim parts to pass the cable, and obviously also all the boot side trims as well :-)
Or you can do a piss-poor job like most auto shops do, and just pass it "outside" the tailgate trim, use zip-ties all over, and the like ....
My camera of choice was the Pioneer ND-BC8, higher price than the usual chinese variety, but guaranteed compatibility with whatever I will fit as a screen/display, which I am not sure which will be (many ideas crowding my mind, will share) ...
https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Accessories/Rear-View-Cameras/ND-BC8
welcome to the pub!
Get the multiplug out of the rubber connector and then you are ready to unbolt the door directly, with glass and all - mind the weight though.
I would leave the hinges on the body, it saves from having to repaint them.
Bear in mind you will need to align the door after ...
agh, I would hace checked all the system before going for the compressor ... when I was sentenced "it is dead" I though "screw this" and after some playing with the ETM I found the fault was a pressure switch ... replaced that and never again an issue!
A world of chinese opportunities awaits ...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133296652567?hash=item1f09198117:g:098AAOSwPfBeFFek
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173123547499?epid=9009811980&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item284ef7b16b:g:vhMAAOSwGwlaDW9h&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAACkPYe5NmHp%252B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsSDAeS9EQtjPGVfKXTxF0%252Bjpth3avixuDOHAe6jI4rjsQ8vLC8W9fNa2QtDCREO7WLCRq2dXtfMYaGYX4jyA9tsc%252BaJpEvZ1FhA4YbYBSUf1cEXsmTTt2rIJCMtLYouvbf4NBJDy3%252BjEEje0OgdcAtJ9MszW0gy6Z2b%252BVnj9Hc7tbaUVWtfAjEp%252BphKEN8Ne5VvNiPsU15B8A8TaqwHEX7xkYU1vZfzznHsSyCCyTKGM8oC%252B5mzQZC%252BAXhKxJhEsXT%252Fo8es3UlIH7iYmDv6NEvRoO%252FABnaQmgFpfPhx7MfO2yx9gjmH5%252FhcOfXq1nENyXY7A0SaFNS0bQY8fgsxjO9HsD25ND4UJegD8DJqAVBOQuNR%252F9xZZ%252FbnOPcHbwuvAGJmrfYFA65pDLyhWTCYSTKBhiuYDwnvLqXatowdLcRUJagffQfKwN8%252FDyD07GaXMGRO0M8yZ%252FAriqnVYtIrWBBZRb6lKWba0GkwHMSKCeNRgozN4Vdwejj%252BQxDvzwNLYQupwEpL90EGk8x6s1KlU4bo7WEapgibpO%252FqMkcNnglgD5bogVWHJBhxdhDKDAfI1GYIqUWJewJBCWfh6YRggVs0qn2n%252B9kFQHwsJR2rCm2hN6W4XvtMvJIcq04m7rOSmP0L%252Bkebz%252FgtINFBebIcfT9RzCqS7kWddYIOk8xUNPvBpfN%252BPkJBazPtdOIUnm2a2zm%252BnS2OWAf8Q84fmR1Bz67%252F4iykdjO35CYZyjqcnBxSzn5TiK7nFgWOx1IdjmmaSEVYm%252BqqadmnFw836czSpvas5pCrEZUl9p3az8f2WCoQ0tPq3tOZINY%252BrbkUNoFpkVv%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2334524
just make a wide search and find the one you like the most
Use normal cloth tape, 3M or similar, much better than PVC/insulating tape in 99% of the cases.
The way these vehicles were put together, wiring wise, is appalling.
If you feel unable to find these clips anywhere, try to find part no. EYC10008L "clip-trim retention", should be common to other LR models. Still ...go to a breaker I am sure for a couple smokes, coffee or a beer, you will leave with a handfull or two.
Usually they go out with the trim piece, but often remain in the hole in the body, directly with the (now broken) plastic trim tab. Small, long-nose pliers or two small scredrivers working in unison are needed to take them out. Work one side only, the plop out easily - sometimes they fly out as well lol.
ah lol great story!
I know of who has done it, he said fairly complex job but made up of many simple tasks. I can inquire more if needed ...
Uhm ... perhaps it all rotten politically and socially wise? Sifting through the news does not seem to be so heavenly in spite of being the "virtual" center of the EU ... I'd never choose those areas for permanent living, but that's me :-)
I come and dwell in southern latitudes all my life!
Where LPG is plentiful, none the less ...
Craig, sorry if I sounded rough and don't want to be misunderstood (I am a sucker for old tech, must still be one of the few ones still with a glvoebox full of CDs), my main concern with specific apparatus is the navi/GPS functionality. The AVIC I've mentioned has discontinued support and no-one has cracked the hardware, which means no maps' update.
I mention this because I also see a lot of old posts ... but with really old stuff.
The FT-500BT does not tick all your boxes but size-wise fits great, which was the reason that prompted me to get one.
Pete (welcome?) will look into your solution ...
Well, I am alos gearing towards a tablet-type device, but I think after 5 years there could be something else newer in the market ... these old posts are misleading, not from their technicality, but for their age!
When I first got the P38 I found an AVIC FT500, praised among some as the perfect fit, and it might still be, but now is a piece of ancient machinery ... good just for the museum.
There are tons of products in the market though, and choice is a difficult matter :-/
Also because is a huuuuge wiring diagram!!!
Careful not to mix pre and post 99 diagrams (do NOT ask me how I know ...uf)