Don't worry, same for the other two zee big germans ... don't believe the silver star and the 4 rings are fairing much better! :-)

Sloth, you got a oil burner ... not the same :-)
I keep my bargepole, no worries lol !!

That'd be an interesting electronic play, P38 uses the 5.2.1 which is specifically made for the V8, but close to the 5.2 used by the M62 ... in any case it would be a tight fit, the RV8 is very "slim" upwards due to the small heads, the M62 is wide up ...
In any case I would not touch a BMW powerplant not even with a bargepole ... makes the RV8 look good in comparison, quality wise... only the fact that has VANOS should make you steer away from it lol
Decent Bavarian V8 if you really fancy that would be the earlier version pre-VANOS (that'd be M62B44, 540, 740, 840, etc. 4.4. with 282 horses), which again is run by a Motronic 5.2, or even the earlier M60 which was even more robust - nothwisthanding all the above have Nikasil/Alusil problems, that is.

I don't like new cars, and I seldom like their technology. A wet-clutch DSG or a 6-speed Tiptronic (ZF6HP26) are fantastic transmissions, but I don't like what is build around them and it is a nightmare to adapt.
Likewise for the engine ... money for power, nothing beats an American V8, but ... I guess will dwell on this more when the time comes :-)

You live in an advanced part of the world :-)))
Here is 'reuse and recycle', before "making" :-)))

I had recently a similar issue with the push button on the tailgate (although at the end it was a fuse), and upon dismantling the button I've found corrosion on the spring.
Replacement springs have some hefty price (at least 15gbp!), nevermind the entire button assy, which rarely goes awry.
As I had some materials for clean and re-zinc, I gave only the spring as well, and a finger of grease afterwards.
Excellent result.

I have a couple of button-switches hanging around, might give them the same refurb treatment and offer them up here :-)
The process is fairly inexpensive for such a small and light part.

If someone manages to collect a buch of springs from there and send them over to me ... we'll have working push buttons for decades to come! :-)

Welcome!

I have the Wildpeak on mine (granted, on 16s) and is a fair all-around tire.

Sad to hear ... missus "punished" you for wanting to go fancy with car mods? :-)

A fitting last voyage to a true Land Rover fan ...

The whole panel swap makes sense only when you have a significant dent which warrants kilos of filler which will become noticeable over time, degrading the worth of the paint job. Or - obviously - if you have rot beyond the normally acceptable.

According to Taylor (which many diss, but I consider an eternal landmark on these matters), Mondials (hint: Ferrari Mondial lol) were introduced in 1997, as an option (upgrade), and never offered as "standard", even on special editions.
When 18" became the norm on higher-end vehicles (Vogue SE, for example), it was either the Proline or the ubiquitous Hurricane model. However Mondials were available until end of production.

So yes, it would always have been an extra-paid option (eventually a dealer-fit option).

(I do not see photos if any).
If you want to play, you can mix and match what you want... I remade my seats re-utilizing my bases (with SRS) and padding from an earlier model seat, but in better condition, and with the leather from a third seat :-)

Yes, I guess your doctor would not consider fixing up the P38 among his preferred therapy options .... get well soon!!! :-)

The OBD power pin is directly from a 5A fuse in the fusebox, don't remember which, but there aren't many 5A there ...
Before I fixed the intermittent, and very bothering, electrical failure in that connector by the A-pillar, I ran a direct cable from the battery.

Except some muppet at Solihull thought it was GREAT idea to swap the transfer so the axles are the "other" way around ...

Richard, try it with a Lexus CT200h, that is a nice 'sporty' looking thing, which sadly has no guts (it wavers all over the place anyway)

Dude, don't go overboard yet. First they have to restrict usage of more polluting vehicles, then stop them altogether, then you can search for conversion variants.
By then I am sure there will be much more retrofit options that those who now only do it as a plaything ...

Which now I remember what it was ... before I close the rear luggage panels, I was wanting to fix the tow electrics so I can have both connectors, 7 and 13 pin.
I have now the original 7-pin which attaches to the right side, and I know the additional wiring is available in a plug behind the sub on the left side.
Question is ... how do the two looms "merge" together when both 7 and 13 pin connectors are present? Did this ever existed as an accessory? Or I just need to make it myself splicing here and there to make the additional wiring?
I need to take the bumper off sooner or later, so I can also prepare all the wiring and just tuck it aside until its time comes...

Will post pictures as well :-)

Finally I had some time to play ...
... first I wanted to remove the LPG tank as it has "expired" (so says the law) and need to be replaced. Plus I can clean the underside and see why is "damp" there (which I don't like), plus I stupidly dropped couple days ago a M6 tap there (another story), and I can also put the new tank and don't bother that area anymore. The tank is empty, so I can proceed.
I managed to remove the nuts holding the tank (rusted underneath), but to my dismay the valve is external and mounted towards the rear seats, which means to remove it, I need to drop the exhaust. While that is also something in the works, in the small garage where I am working that would be stupidly difficult. Will have to wait until I move the RR out, so that was the end of that activity.
... so then comes moving on to understand why the seats' backrests were not engaging, which I resolved and illustrated on my other topic. I also fixed the seats (finally!) and wonder why oh why Land Rover never bothered to protect the underside so these crappy bolts will not rust perennially ... anyway. Invigorated by this progress, I moved further.
... moving further I moved the car out of the garage, to finally pass the darn 12V for the aux battery in the rear (you might remember I mentioned this elsewhere). Moving indeed, but the garage door was not fully open and while the roof was somehow for paint, as the rest of the car, now def it is. Bugger. Anyway, I passed the cable as we discussed in Sloth's topic and now I wait to close the rear trunk panels and trim and see what will look lilke.
... and with that I moved on to the rear again, namely rear leftside (driver side for us normal people). Fitted the two bosses I had my guy made on the lathe, and drill through the small side-carpets and pass the bolts. This is to replicate "DIY" the "Load Retention System" accessory, STC8530, which is either unavailable or exhorbitantly priced. Left side first to make, since after it came the time to position the rest of the trim and works ...
... which were to position the subwoofer to see if the amp would fit - I will run the original sub through a Blaupunkt GTA270, directly from the source, and not from the HK system, although will use its powered line to the rear.
In between positioning the sub and the cables, the amp, the trim, etc. I think I put the thing on and off at least five times ... but it seems not only to work, also it fits in the slot/cradle where the CD changer was, great result.
So the last job was to cut couple slots for some luggage area additional lights - will reuse the central cubby ones, I have a couple spare, and that was a day, considering I had also two hours babysitting in the meantime, and moved three times between home and the garage ferrying around stuff I'd forgot.
Not bad. Hope I will get it in shape and running by 2029 at this pace, but hey, it was a start!
I had not touch it since a while ... can't wait to get it going again!

Well, sorry to bring the topic around but I wanted to clear the issue of the previous page, yes indeed the seats were not "bedding themselves" fully, therefore the catch was not working.
I laid down on the trunk floor and play a while until I noticed a gap of 2-3mm (really!) was not enabling the seat catch to fully wrap around the metal rod.
I blame that one the extra insulation I applied on the floor, and remove some around the area where the seat "lies". Still a bit on the difficult side, but I have already put the carpet back and don't feel like taking it apart again. Will get used to it...
Also the backrest catches are being difficult, for the same reason. Oh well - thanks again!
Move on to the next one, soon :-)