Which now I remember what it was ... before I close the rear luggage panels, I was wanting to fix the tow electrics so I can have both connectors, 7 and 13 pin.
I have now the original 7-pin which attaches to the right side, and I know the additional wiring is available in a plug behind the sub on the left side.
Question is ... how do the two looms "merge" together when both 7 and 13 pin connectors are present? Did this ever existed as an accessory? Or I just need to make it myself splicing here and there to make the additional wiring?
I need to take the bumper off sooner or later, so I can also prepare all the wiring and just tuck it aside until its time comes...

Will post pictures as well :-)

Finally I had some time to play ...
... first I wanted to remove the LPG tank as it has "expired" (so says the law) and need to be replaced. Plus I can clean the underside and see why is "damp" there (which I don't like), plus I stupidly dropped couple days ago a M6 tap there (another story), and I can also put the new tank and don't bother that area anymore. The tank is empty, so I can proceed.
I managed to remove the nuts holding the tank (rusted underneath), but to my dismay the valve is external and mounted towards the rear seats, which means to remove it, I need to drop the exhaust. While that is also something in the works, in the small garage where I am working that would be stupidly difficult. Will have to wait until I move the RR out, so that was the end of that activity.
... so then comes moving on to understand why the seats' backrests were not engaging, which I resolved and illustrated on my other topic. I also fixed the seats (finally!) and wonder why oh why Land Rover never bothered to protect the underside so these crappy bolts will not rust perennially ... anyway. Invigorated by this progress, I moved further.
... moving further I moved the car out of the garage, to finally pass the darn 12V for the aux battery in the rear (you might remember I mentioned this elsewhere). Moving indeed, but the garage door was not fully open and while the roof was somehow for paint, as the rest of the car, now def it is. Bugger. Anyway, I passed the cable as we discussed in Sloth's topic and now I wait to close the rear trunk panels and trim and see what will look lilke.
... and with that I moved on to the rear again, namely rear leftside (driver side for us normal people). Fitted the two bosses I had my guy made on the lathe, and drill through the small side-carpets and pass the bolts. This is to replicate "DIY" the "Load Retention System" accessory, STC8530, which is either unavailable or exhorbitantly priced. Left side first to make, since after it came the time to position the rest of the trim and works ...
... which were to position the subwoofer to see if the amp would fit - I will run the original sub through a Blaupunkt GTA270, directly from the source, and not from the HK system, although will use its powered line to the rear.
In between positioning the sub and the cables, the amp, the trim, etc. I think I put the thing on and off at least five times ... but it seems not only to work, also it fits in the slot/cradle where the CD changer was, great result.
So the last job was to cut couple slots for some luggage area additional lights - will reuse the central cubby ones, I have a couple spare, and that was a day, considering I had also two hours babysitting in the meantime, and moved three times between home and the garage ferrying around stuff I'd forgot.
Not bad. Hope I will get it in shape and running by 2029 at this pace, but hey, it was a start!
I had not touch it since a while ... can't wait to get it going again!

Well, sorry to bring the topic around but I wanted to clear the issue of the previous page, yes indeed the seats were not "bedding themselves" fully, therefore the catch was not working.
I laid down on the trunk floor and play a while until I noticed a gap of 2-3mm (really!) was not enabling the seat catch to fully wrap around the metal rod.
I blame that one the extra insulation I applied on the floor, and remove some around the area where the seat "lies". Still a bit on the difficult side, but I have already put the carpet back and don't feel like taking it apart again. Will get used to it...
Also the backrest catches are being difficult, for the same reason. Oh well - thanks again!
Move on to the next one, soon :-)

With certain acrobatics, blend motors are accessible. However you should know which one to access in the first place. Then, having handy some diagnostic tool is a godsend.

In a dark and sometimes unhappy place, but never alone! ah ah ...

Best wishes for a happy and healty time!

... and you can be sure by choosing a 'proper' installer the thing would be done the way it has to be.
Most LPG installs I have seen are horrible work, done on the cheap with a million zipties all over, ECUs thrown around in the engine bays unprotected, and so on ...

If I has offered another P38 I'd had to ran away from it before wife catches me and that will be the end of me :-)

Yes, this is a correct approach. Sometimes, if they have never been removed, they are a pain!
I also noticed the paint on them chips away, very poor manufacturing choice. Other makes have the color "embedded" in the plastic directly, and this means they tolerate much better the handling.
I've looked carefully and the parcel shelf area ones are the only with a 'shiny' cap, no fir tree type but normal "press-on" clip, and beige-brown in color.
Fascinating topic for a Friday night! Gotta love RRP38 owners!

From the poorness of my location, you got to be crazy to go buy a handle new ... any breaker must be glad to get rid of it :-)

Richard, the clip you called "middle" should be the one that goes in the plastic covers of the front seats' "feet" (towards the rear seats), except the very long one mounted on the front (towards the driver and passenger's area) ... all these they literally disintegrate ..
The last one looks exactly like the parcel shelf ones ... I've noticed they are unique and found only in that area.

Uhm, mine is a Lightstone and its "donor twin" is a grey (don't know but I think is Granite), but the roof stuff (handles and such) are in the same color, which should be "Mist grey". It seems upper of the middle line, all plastics and roof fittings are the same across the models, regardless of the lower trim. So anything you can find locally, should fit.

The first photo seems to be the "quarter turn" for the rear luggage trim area (say, the cover for the subwoofer), this you need to find it in Lightstone indeed.
The third photo I cannot make it, I thought it was the 'shiny cap' in the rear parcelf area, but it does not seem to be.

Pierre, what thickness have you used? up to 2mm is fairly light and flexible, 3mm upwards not so, for bitumen/bytil based.
the closed cell 6 o 9 mm are also doable.
For the material I use (say, CTK), 2mm "basic" is around 3.45kg per m2, a 3mm "premium" (more dense) is 3.7kg per m2
I use no less that a full box for a large station wagon (A6 size) which are around 2.5m2, that means 8/9kgs.
Add the foam, and I guess when you make the entire car must be around 15 to 20kg. No more than the rubbish in the thunk ... :-)
In any case, worthwhile addition!

Go top price (and be willing to negotiate). The condition warrants it!
Is easy to under-sale or give away the fruit of your efforts and you'll never get that back ... don't make a present to the next guy! Make it worth!

Sorry I still suck at English 101 ... I mean the luggage area, I already have a hole in the firewall for the purpose (PO made a crude battery switch that I removed). I will prowl around trying to do it nice.

Sloth how did you sort out passing the big-ass battery cable from the front to the wheel well? I am getting materials to address my additional battery setup (mentioned it elsewhere like a million years ago) but I am not sure where to drill to pass through.

Over here, as long as a modification doesn't make the car less safe to you or others, then it is OK.

This is a very civilized and smart thinking. Unfortunately, most lesser countries - especially European - have decided that the only one empowered to believe how much of an improvement to safety is the manufacturer. This is, if he allows such mod by issuing a specific certificate, then you can validate the mod, otherwise it is "illegal". Now there are some workarounds in the form of independent bodies (such as the TUV I've mentioned above), but not always avaialble in all countries.
As a tinkerer of cars since early age, I have been battling against this backwards mentality since I have memory (over 20 years now), and I see no improvement whatsoever in this mindset.
Approach in later years is I don't care any longer, and I am ready to argument that technically. Luckily for me, I am off the hook, or so it seems .... :-)

I wouldn't send my car off to do stuff like that regardless.

And in a COVID world, I think many would abstain to send their cars off to have someone else they don't know leave some sticky goo oever every surface for you to catch something afterwards ... lol

But if anyone needs any replacement clips, I've got 7 brand new, genuine Rover ones, going spare.

Will keep this in mind when I tackle this job as well, mine has always been noisy above 75mph and it has a small gap on the right side. Being a non-original replacement, I suspect poor refitting.

wow ... stunning!
hats off to you :-)

Agree with Marshall, when I made my (poor) repair, it took just a full cycle on both ways and it found its way.
It does sit a little low on one side, but this is glass' adjustment, not motor/mechanism issue.
Will someday spend the proper dough and get the damn thing original brand new and stop bothering ...