Like other countries have already, everything depends on the original homologation certificate for that vehicle (and they DO have and it is available upon request ...).
So if OEM is LED or Xenon, you can replace them as usual.
If halogen -> stick to halogen.
If you want to convert, if you need to obtain a manufacturer's homologation certificate, or pass a technical inspection where manufacturer's data will be reviewed, or an independent technical body that can authorize the modification (like TUV or Dekra in Germany and Austria).
These norms are standard in most countries (that I know for sure: Spain, Italy, Switzerland, Austria, Germany, Bulgaria).
You guys in the Island have always had a ... unusual approach to these.
That does not remove the fact that probably if the modification is done right, you will be rarely harassed ... I've done over 35k km in the last three years across southern europe with my tri-xenon mod on my A6's headlights, and never an issue whatsoever. And like me, many others ... countless of them :-)
First question: I've managed to refit the rear seats (duh!) but I noticed I cannot make them upright.
Something seems to be blocking the mechanism. I know it has to "lay down" properly, but is there any locking feature hidden anywhere?
I'll start putting up photos in some moment as well..
Gents, I've resurrected this to ask for help and advice.
As I am trying to pick up the pieces of the mess of my life in the last couple years (too many projects, too many engagements, too many complications), I took a hard look at my beloved P38 which is sitting since two years gathering dust.
I've took the commitment to move it to completion and start (finally!) using it, so I took it to my place where I can do something at it every day, even if few minutes, as opposed to the yard in my working place where I never seem to have time for it.
Now the problem is that ... most of the stuff I seem to have forgotten how to do it (urgh!).
So if you are patient with me will try to go step by step and concentrate on this topic most questions I hope you can help me with.... thanks in advance!!
This year IS the year!
I think you have nothing to worry about.
After spending tons of kms made with 95-108 degrees and equivalent tons of sweat and worry (would often see 115/117), when my fan disintegrated, I took matters in my own hands (alienating my former "pal-mechanic") and replaced absolutely EVERYTHING (except couple hoses which are bidding their time).
Never saw more than 85-87 deg. afterwards, and 90-92 when at standstill in the heat with the AC on ... which makes me think most stories about the RV8 "too hot" are mostly due to (normal) deterioration of the water cooling components over time, and neglected until the inevitable comes.
I had to do the same back then when I had a Wrangler, the pedals were ok if your were Quasimodo or his ilk, but quite unfit for mine - fairly normale - arrangement...
Had no issues with the P38 in this regard.
The Comets are really nice ... I get the feeling they all came in "Silver Sparkle"?
Hurricanes are available in both "Bright Silver" (the classic alu alloy look) and "Silver Sparkle" (the polished diamond look) ... great rims actually.
I will still stuck to my 16" however :-)
That metal ain't treated at all (like in most cars' interior unpainted metal), so with a proper treatment and - especially - fixing the water ingress you might not have any more issues later on...
Following with interest ... great idea ot use the sat nav shelf for whatever else comes handy!
These are great anecdotes! Pity might get lost in this big salad ... but so is the nature of the "pub" :-)
Pity LR did not follow up on the big Diesels, this had made the japs a winner option in key markets ... the 1HZ engine is as sweet as it comes, and a wonderful, simple, rugged powerplant, yet smooth and pleasant to drive. A nothing sophisticated ... just well made.
Sorry thread seems a duplicate of the other one ... not to repeat myself, forget the Boge if not coming directly from LR.
Mine are "OEM" and don't seem to do the job. I've run them from less than 1k km and then stopped the car (not because of that, lol).
I was told they are Turkish or something like that and not up to the OE ones.
I have a set of TF "standard" new, not mounted yet, and not sure if fit them or not. Monroes are the next option.
I like a soft but compliant ride ...
I unearthed my beauty and took her out of the underground garage where spent the last two harsh winter months.
Moved her to an intermediate location in our workshop and from there this week to the garage close to home where I hope I can find some spare hour every week to start putting the fricking thing together, I want to start using it and drive it a LOT.
Will need huge help in the times to come, I have forgotten how to put back together half of the things I took apart couple years ago ...
I have a similar story ... my queen came with orangish cellular dynamics, I've tried two friends' P38s with original shocks and were much smoother and compliant. So I happily bought Boge OEM but I've fitted them and almost immediately one would bottom out and knock, as if it was at the end of the compression ... being a complicated purchase (from where I am) it was not really possible a replacement, so there it was.
When I inquired one of my mates about it, his reply simply was "where did you buy it? If in Land Rover as OE is one thing, if as Boge from somewhere else the quality is not the same even if it says OEM".
Dunno what to say to that, I've got a set of Terrafirmas in a box waiting to be mounted. I am not convinced, but ... what to do?
What Bilsteins did you fit? B4s (I think are black) or B6s (yellow)?
Ride is always firmer with Bilsteins ... a good thing on most cars, not on the RR.
As far as I recall one of the reasons why are not so common is they were not standard offer but available only thru the "accesories catalogue", so special order. Nice rims.
We could turn this into the "rims topic", I had this in mind since a while ...
I seem to recall switches/buttons go where a "plain" plastic cover sits. I have to transfer mine as I am replacing steering wheels (well, this IS the year it's been two years my RRP38 is off the road and I am getting pissed), and it is a minor mod to do.
The electrical attachments points are also on the sides of the column and seem an easy "addition"
Glad you're done and sorry I came late on this
Can I get the air box off without having to drain the coolant and take the whole business out?
For the sake of information, you can work on the heater without messing around too much with the coolant. If you clamp together the hoses in the engine bay you can make a "bypass" and therefore contain much of the precious liquid within the engine circuit. The drain from the core area is limited, I seem to recall does not reach a liter.
I think it is a forever car. You will need to keep it forever nobody will want it and if you put how much it costs you need to run it forever to depreciate it 😆
On the other hand, it is so hands' on and "proper" land rover it is impossible not to keep it.
I think is the ultimate Range Rover, and possibly one of the most balanced Land Rover cars ever made (up there with the late RRC, Disco I and II, and late Defender if you are up for suffering eh eh)
Well, for some still is! A hole in the roof is a wonderful idea, if you can't get to an open-top car.
Now, on the other hand, the way Land Rover did it might not be the optimum way ... there are plenty other cars that don't leak anything even after years :-)
Well, here on the continent we are not so well verse in the ... intricacies of the English language. Rest assured, if you want to start up a conversation with a hot-tempered Hungarian or Greek* policeman on the difference between a "bar" and a "hitch" you will be in for a very entertaining event :-)
I guess I will look carefully at the Witter and see how to weld some sort of bracketry that looks OEM.
I am OK with the Falken Wildepeak, but on 16". Bit noisy. Have not gone beyond the easy greenlane.
A mate in Italy is running 255/60 on 18" and says is the best compromise for mostly on-road use.
Feel bad about opening a topic for this, but there is nothing similar to piggyback to ... need some ideas here
I have a Witter flange tow bar, which is OK for me, but sometimes it would be more useful if I had a receiver/hitch the "square" type, like the US ones. I am planning to fit a motorcycle stand, would like a sturdier support for the bak-rak, and I am toying with the idea to use it to assist in my idea for a portable crane like those available for pick-ups.
What do you suggest I do? Modify the Witter somehow or ditch it for an US type - which unfortunately would not be approved/certified in EU, although here in Bulgaria this would not be an issue since they really do not look right now at these things, but abroad they do ...