men looks like new ... keep going when is possible!
My last change was with a Marly 10W-40 with graphite, and I am not sure with what I will go once the next change comes (soon I hope, as I got it running after 3 months in hibernation - more on the relevant thread) ...
I agree oils have modernized a lot and manufacturers follow suit - my Guzzi has an engine basically unchanged since the late 60s, and while the old recommendation was 10W-40 or 15W-40 in the early/mid 2000s they moved to 10W-60 and have remained on that. I changed to 10W-60 on mine, but I always need to refill a little within changes (the old 10W-40 one was not doing that).
I think in the venerable RV8 a ultra-modern, sophisticated 10W-60 would sound like a waste, but running always warm ... might be the right choice. Will give it a try, doesn't hurt ....
I guess it depends more on the engine condition than on the technology - I've noticed 5W-40 for a high-mileage or tired/worn engine is a waste, in those cases better to throw it what I call "liquid grease" and pity for the cold starts, engine is compromised and life is limited by then anyway :-)
I agree modern oils 5W-30 and the like are designed/engineering with emissions/low friction requirements in mind, not with lubrication and cooling requirements that are the real reason why an oil is needed ... my woman's recent addition CT200h (don't stone me, I was merely an observer) uses 0W-20 and I cringe at the thought ...
Nice ideas all! I like the "double" tailgate lamp ... will make that!
I wired two lights on the sides, above the wheel arches, and I used the typical "door sill" light from our junkyard audis.
Sloth is right, I tend to agree more than exotic collector's items, in time most P38 will only appeal to a few enthusiasts, which I think the British call 'anoraks' ...
The 'special editions' are really valued only because of the rarer accessories, some of them really hard to find.
Keeps fingers crossed!
I work in a large area without heating (30x10x5mt warehouse, split in two sections by a nylon curtain) and in addition to your "gear" I suggest a neck warmer, and couple thermos with nice tea for breaks. When you are in "action" don't feel the cold unless you get close to zero temps inside. Standing still however wears you down quickly, which will happen when you are at the bench doing the innards of the case ... that's where the tea comes handy!
Remember good footwear, if your feet get cold that is a near unrecoverable moment :-)
Never imagined the sump was so accessible ... great, on the list :-)
That BMW metal tank don't look to be fitting to a Thor engine... you need two up top by the cap, one at the bottom, and the large return one. I don't see them there.
I have ran for an year a 2nd hand one so ....
PS: I got my setup almost sorted out! BMW header AND sensor for level AND TBH return inlet! Soon pics and full report! :-)
Beowulf, taking the sump out for a look and clean would be on my list, can it clear easily the axle? How did you do it? Tks!
In mine changing motors did not fix any issue, I found the foam insulation had disintegrated and blocked the 'flaps', which were also partially destroyed.... unfortunately that is (was) a dash out job, extremely ... rewarding, I must say.
This is a common problem and we do deal with this all the time, it happens also in AC radiators and steering cooler lines.
Sometimes no matter how much you go at it, it will not budge, and if you break/twist the radiator/cooler end, you're done for.
On our projects, with the AC and steering pipes, I have found is much easier to undo them at the "far end" - say by the AC compressor, by the steering pump, and so on. Usually the "far end" is closer to heat/more protected area in the engine bay, and thus saved from the muck, salt and rust of being up in the front. Yes, it is much more work, and sometimes removing the pipes requires to dismantle other components and/or great feats of athletic prowess (with associated colorful language) but you save the cooler to start with ...
Other options include to "break" the nut, and thus save the threaded section. Then you can fit another new nut.
You can also cut the pipe somewhere else, remove the cooler, and work on the bench with full access from all sides. The two parts of the pipe can be again welded by anyone capable of. We have one guy that even "rebuilds" rusted/corroded parts of the pipes (usually by the rubber mounting points where muck sets in), then you save the pipe (for some cars are very expensive or non available).
For very thin ones (say, brake pipes) we just cut the ends, get the overall length, then make a new one with new threads ... and bend it carefully following the contours of the original one. Lots of work :-)
Another useful way is to check the bottom end of the overflow brass pickup little pipe - the one you see when you open the cap - it should be "wet" drowned in at least 1cm of coolant, not "dry".
Better to have a lil less coolant than too much, for the reasons illustrated above ...
Just a note, if the 4 screws of the knee panel are still with their cover caps, pry them loose VERY gently and use plastic tools, they get scratched very easily and are visible, so once ruined you will regret it.
Likewise, the screws need their proper size screwdriver to fully engage in the cross.
Once you remove the knee panel, the flimsiness of its mounting points will show in all its true glory. Go carefully over each plastic "pillar" where the screw passes through, in order to check for cracks or broken bits in the (flimsy) plastic. If there, pass through with some heavy duty glue like poxipol to save them from certain destruction.
When you put back together the panel, do not over tighten, lest accelerate the breaking process described above. Is enough the panel just not to rattle, it is not structural so does not need too much pressure by those pesky screws ....
Use a heat gun but delicately and only to "soften" the glue, and work your way with a plastic spatula.
For re-gluing, use a dedicated upholstery glue, I've tried "conventional" ones and they don't hold much. Do not exaggerate otherwise the leather gets "mushy" on the opposite side and might be noticeable ... lol
What was wrong with your old lid? Worn leather or it came apart from the lid?
Well, I am Italian so ... driving spiritedly (observing the norms, almost always) it is part of my driving style :-)
Every motor, new or old, needs a good whacking once in a while. Keeps carbon deposits to a minimum, removes condensation from engine and exhaust, and remember it is not only the skinny pedal that needs exercise, but that fat one as well to make sure brake pads are fully forced against the disc and do not crystallize over time, diminishing braking capability.
Important is to make sure all components are fully warmed up, and it is a progressive "sprint".
A couple of WOT at the traffic lights followed by long period of "granny driving" won't cut it :-)
Glad to help :-)
Sorry dhallworth, in my case I was just lucky! Indeed the OE Valeo is very expensive, if you were to find it at all!
I do not remember Nissens has a part no. for the RRP38 specifically, but I can tell you the Audi cores for the Typ 100/C4 are numbers 70220 - example:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Nissens-70220-Exchanger-interior-heating/dp/B00CKPXOK6
and 70230 - being the only difference between the two the diameter of the outlet pipes
https://www.autodily-cardo.cz/-25/vymenik-tepla-nissens-70230/
These are aftermarket replacements to the original Hella core, whose original part number 443 819 030 and is now nearly non-available, and remaining stock quite pricey.
Hi super4 I think I've got what you need. I browsed some past posts and see you have GEMS so you are with the 'all-clear' lens correct?
Send me a PM when you can, always good to have a pal in "El Reino de España" and we can work out the details.
GilberTD (or GTD for short :-)) has mention this in few occasions
https://rangerovers.pub/topic/989-message-centre-odometer-display-not-illuminating?page=1.0#pid16010
ah ah ah ah ... put a smile on my face! thanks for that!
Clean it first! Brake cleaner might be good for debris and muck out of the plastic moving parts and the rails?
If you go Audi, I believe the model was the one for the 100/A6 up to 1997, which is originally made by Hella. Very expensive nowadays as a "Genuine" German part, last year got a batch of those I remember retail was like 105 euro apiece.
If you go Nissens (far lesser quality, but do their job ok) you got two models, 70220 and 70230, being the difference the outlet diameter of the pipes 16mm or 19mm.
Don't go cheaper/more Chinese than Nissens, you might regret it (as see if often as I deal with such Audis)
When I made mine I've decided against it, as I've found a NOS Valeo at a similar price ...