That is an interesting analysis indeed. Although it isn't so warm and comfy as cloth or velour, I like leather a lot.
On a car of a certain level, would not consider otherwise ...
Modern headlights have also lesser quality reflectors (thinner plastic walls), poorer chrome (due to the "ecological process"), thinner wires (so save money, more than weight), and flimsy electrical connectors (which give poorer power until they fail).
It is a natural that their output decays much faster than older design headlights ... I have a guy that refurbs lights for a living, very good, and he hates to do modern car headlights, he said they are nearly impossible to return to factory, and expensive parts as well.
Yeah, service staff at powerful.uk they were surprised, it hadn't happen so far. I was very pleased with them btw, hope to do business again if anything else of interest pops up
I am also a ... refugee from other forums, where the P38 is a lesser vehicle. Oh well, whatever ... inhere besides the cool vibe there is a tremendous wealth of specific knowledge. Great!
Welcome sarfarm!
Boys are gathering lots of stuff, this is very good!!
Me, still lingering on various issues. But soon ...
I had the LEDs from powerful uk and unfortunately I had to return them as they lasted around 6-7 months.
It was pretty good while it lasted though ... will try the OSRAMs when I gather some $$$ for them.
amazing well made explanation!
I am trying the Xado on a couple of engines here, but so far not seeing much change ...
That is a weird one ... I had once the same loading situation you had, besides the normal tailgate beeping the EAS went flashing but did reach normal height, and once I resumed normal operation it did not show any faults. Strange.
Now, of course with the door signal override switch I no longer care ...
Welcome!
Besides all what written correctly above, what sounds like an abomination is actually how most vehicles of "modern making" do track odo readings ... some of them even track it on the keyfob, which is now much more than a mere remote :-)
Yes, he does propose his ... thingies. They are big thingies ... and bring a lot of heat :-)
Thermostat it was called?
No it is not .... lol
just kidding
Me, I any Land Rover newer than Def/D2/RRP38 leaves me fairly indifferent. The vision of the brand and my own interests differ so much I have trouble finding any alignment. And is not price matter either ...
For the dough of the new thing, I'd rather buy something different.
I refrain from publishing my expenses so far ...
BTW that website has some stuff that is interesting ... prices are dead low - pity transport which is no less than 600 euro if I remember, which means must be something worth
Send a link, good to know there is an alternative.
If the area around the mounting holes are cracked, there are plastic repair kits that can be applied. I have a mate that uses a small machine that heats wire filaments and then they get embedded in the plastic. The result is very strong, better than the usual glue process.
If the plastic is missing altogether, it can be reconstructed, and then using the stuff above soldered again.
I need to do some rear panels and I will document graphically the process :-)
Needless to say, the quality of these plastics to start with is ... appalling. Very flimsy and brittle material.
I would not even look at that part new ... some complete and undisturbed second hand must be out there!
I forgot in my previous message to thank you guys for the continuous support!
Today I had some half hour break and open up the bonnet to check out pipe "20" ... and the 'plastic joiner' mentioned by dave above is not plastic at all, but it is a metal pipe that assists the hoses in the turn around the engine mount turret.
Looks like a perfect candidate for a Tee there, but my donor vehicle's pipe was all rusted up and disintegrating.
Will try to drain some coolant and remove it from my own, decided will give it to one of our "suppliers" and have him weld a ... bung (?) is that the word? and from there directly get a 10mm hose from the TBH return outlet.
That hopefully should sort out the issue cheaply and painless.
After you play with the (very good!) bulbs recommended by Gd ... or GD ... or if we say Gilbertd might as well go as "GTD" ... look some day closely at your headlights. If the glass is very scratched/darkened, and/or the shiny chrome is dull/yellow, and especially if it starts to flake off ... time to search for better looking lights ... no easy repair for our Valeos :-/
yes, usually the lower part is the one gone awry. pity to get to it you need to take the seat apart ... nice job for a rainy weekend though :-)
I've fixed mine and hope it holds, otherwise I will go the aftermarket way ...
Hello Rover7 and welcome ... do you actually have a Rhino?
Gosh, the pub is filling up with a lot of rare RRP38s ... we will become the cream of the cream with the rarest and most unique (and still running!) last of the true British Range Rovers!
Makes me wonder about by plain HSE lol
Well I got two options left .... go get a T-joint against pipe "20" in the drawing above (thanks for posting that!) or I guess I will need to bite the bullet and get the Allisport tank ... bloody expensive for an alu box tho ...
But for sure I don't want to go drill around stuff on plastic tanks, I've already suffered enough with the cooling system here.
Will report on next iteration.