yes, usually the lower part is the one gone awry. pity to get to it you need to take the seat apart ... nice job for a rainy weekend though :-)
I've fixed mine and hope it holds, otherwise I will go the aftermarket way ...
Hello Rover7 and welcome ... do you actually have a Rhino?
Gosh, the pub is filling up with a lot of rare RRP38s ... we will become the cream of the cream with the rarest and most unique (and still running!) last of the true British Range Rovers!
Makes me wonder about by plain HSE lol
Well I got two options left .... go get a T-joint against pipe "20" in the drawing above (thanks for posting that!) or I guess I will need to bite the bullet and get the Allisport tank ... bloody expensive for an alu box tho ...
But for sure I don't want to go drill around stuff on plastic tanks, I've already suffered enough with the cooling system here.
Will report on next iteration.
ah ah ah ... my daughter still too small to think about it, but the day she learns will be shocked as well!
Thanks for clearing up the Zebedee matter, is been bugging me for a long time as well but did not want to start up a topic for it ...
While I did enjoyed coil sprung LR/RR in previous years, I would agree with a "purist" in considering the leaf-sprung Series the 'core' and tradition of the brand. Certainly non relatable to the modern interpretations .... say "New Defender" oops.
Sorry for adding OT to the topic.
that sounds .... very low. if they are mint, worth snap them right away!
Update: I did some research and confirmed what that I would not want to have the throttle body icing up when I do not want to ... so here we go .... messing around to see how to T-join the pipes I had the plastic pipe disintegrate at the slightest touch (I did had to touch it) ... options for replacement are:
Now I was also wondering where to do the T joint ... if I use the pipe coming from the top of the radiator back to the expansion tank, could I run into any issues? It looks like the right one (same size) and also both coming back to the tank ... I am only concern for some airlock and therefore coolant being unable to escape the radiator in case of overheat ...
It is always recommended to disconnect battery, but I've done at least a hundred removal/refitting of steering wheels and seats with battery on, and never an issue or dreadful explosion.
You need to deal with the inevitable airbag fault, though ....
I am also a sucker for hard print... and the original does not seem to be that expensive ...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROVER-P38-PARTS-LIST-CATALOGUE-VOGUE-SE-HSE-DSE-TD-Owners-Manual-Handbook/133487341097?hash=item1f14772e29:g:nqIAAOSwr6RZhCzn
Sorry I run 16" and have no experience on Michelins.
Coming from an AT to a full street tire would certainly benefit noise performance and fuel consumption.
Interested to hear how it goes out of the hard surfaces, compared to the AT you had ...
I find that every time I fumble around the brake switch area ... I break it ... :-(
ha ha ha ... sorry I thought it was another RRP38 lol !
Then yes fitting into another vehicle not BeCM dependant is a simple thing.
Congrats on the FJ, I lots of respect and like for old Cruisers (I got a 70 series myself). You will turn it less reliable by adding LR parts though :-)
BeCM does give the output coming from the HeVAC switches.
At least you would need a HeVAC unit with the seat heater switches, and the seats themselves obviously :-)
Now, you might or might not have a BeCM that allows that, you should check the connectors, providing you have access, to check if the wiring is there. Otherwise, you will need to run some cables as well to allow for that.
Sameway for the connectors in the back of the HeVAC.
I gotta run now but someone else will fill in ... at least will give you: seat heater outputs are in connector C0877 (12-pin green, tunnel side, rear first from the back), pins 1 and 2.
Cool, I had not given thought to the arch liners, indeed they mess the inner edge.
Good points on the rear d-pillar trim, strange looking at the manual it looks so easy ...
I know ... I just wanted to instill some fun "fear" in the topic! :-)
We need emoticons perhaps :-)
The 'bulging' is usually sign of too much dirt/rust inside the sill cover, I have not taken out the lower ones (yet) but these parts usually have a metal strip inside to keep the shape, once it starts to rust it ... grows and ... bulges :-)
Time to replace...any repair is temporary.
Noticed Richard's photo shows the lower trim under the rear windows in place, should it also go out like the ones in the doors or it needs the entire window frame out? I am planning to respray mine as soon as I am done with the interior (hopefully before deep winter!).
If you can remove the top windscreen trim and there is left a sufficient gap in between the roof and the glass, no need to remove the windscreen then, tape will suffice to keep the area clean to work.
Yes, and also make sure it stays in place ... when they are not under pressure, sometimes get "loose" and it is easy to "lose" them somewhere ... try to find a replacement is not easy except in that specific car/area ... (don't) ask me how I know ...
Welcome!
First you will need to fix the starting issue as mentioned above ... if the 'EAS' (not EKA!) error stays on, whoever did the conversion to springs let the car 'brain' still believe the air suspension is still on ... sloppy job.
EAS - Electronic Air Suspension: air suspension system
EKA - Emergency Key Access: immobilizer/anti-theft code (you should have somewhere in the car documents a 4-digit code) which allows to temporarily (one time)* provide access to the vehicle and engine start.
Welcome to the world of the RRP38, that some fool at Solihull thought would be more valuable than a Rolls-Royce at the time and therefore protected with such Fort Knox gizmos, all who duly fail in a car at the end less valuable than an old Tata Indigo :-)))
If you have easy access because of the no dash it would be a pity not to do it ... at least that was my thought when I made mine - no leaking, but ....
I also silicone the way around the rings - you never know ...
Sunroof drain could be only from the top area, because after it goes down the A-pillar it exits the cabin - the outlet is in between the fender and the door, you can actually spot it if you open the door.
If blocked on the upper part however, you should have leak spots in the headlining or in the carpet.
On mine I get a drip (little) from the upper seal (roof/door seal), I've silicone it but still does drip (it is glued originally to the roof area, but with the years it lets go, and it also "smashes flat". The rear doors have the same problem... and all those one drip right into the sill channel area.
Hope you find the cause ... water ingress is one of my top hates in a modern car, nevermind a "British" car, and a "luxury" car ... :-(
Uh, I never took those one out (I've only replaced the latch, mine's cover was broken), but from what I've remember seeing you need to:
1) remove the other seat to give you room to work (4 large Torx, T50 methinks - with thread locker so be strooong!);
2) remove the plastic cover for the latch (three screws, one long two short);
3) remove the latch (bolt, keep washers etc)
4) remove foam cushion (puuuulll!)
5) access the mechanism - which I've never seen, sorry - as it is inside the seat from the back.
Have fun :-)