OK, you mean to use the aux battery as a "buffer" ... makes sense. I was planning it all along, but thought just of running the cable(s) now and leave that option open for later, to save time effort and some expense ... well better do it once and proper then.
Will update when I get something done.
I would have thought a black car would have come with silver originally. It seems that light colours got basalt while dark ones got silver.
I am under the same impression. And now that I look more closely at the photo and compare with mine, I think these are not the P38 emblem letters. P38's have a 'crease' to them (don't know how to explain), sloped towards the edges, while these look "straight" and most likely L322 and subsequent letters.
I have a friend with a Microcat copy and he took out for my VIN these specs:
Though useful to resurrect this great topic to ask some details to get acquainted on how you guys done some of these mods, some of them in my mind since long time. I am gearing up to make some wiring to bring "powerful" 12V to the rear and also to run the condenser fans in the proper way...I start by the 12V to the rear ... my plan is to run а wire, or wires, to power the portable winch on the trailer, so I can ditch the drag of bringing along a dedicated battery... my idea was similar to Marty's, now it will be very similar if not identical ...
Any suggestions to the "megafuse" (how much? max winch draw should be in the 200A region). I have good thick gauge wiring so that is covered (from our scrap Audis which had the battery under the rear seat), the P.O. already made some holes in the firewall I will reuse, and my idea was to arrive to the rear, to a a connector like this:
https://www.electricwinchshop.co.uk/400-amp-snap-connectors.html
and from there on to the winch when needed, or also to have a set of mobile jumper cables (want to do this also for the front, from the main battery). Was thinking to splice and run another wire from the connector (with a separate 40A fuse) to the spare wheel well, to put there the air compressor. Electrically, would this be a good idea? This is to avoid using the left 12V "permanent" which Marty mentioned is max 20/30A thru BeCM ... and to avoid running another 5m of wire just for the compressor ...
Next question: what to do with the ground? Can I safely run it to someplace in the body or chassis around the trunk area (where?) or is more advisable to run back another (thick) wire back to the - terminal on the battery?
Well, this became longer than expected but if you guys still with me, my next item is to address the manual control of the condenser fans, following upon what Sloth did. In my darkest times overheating the engine, out of desperation I made a bridge with a cable in the AC pressure switch by the radiator, and with a "flying" manual switch in the dash I was able to run the fans, but I am unconvinced this is the safest option ... looking for ideas to make a more permanent arrangement, maybe getting the direct signal for the fans from the fusebox instead of messing around with the AC system?
And so it begins ... got plenty crazy ideas to turn mine RR in a more versatile and usable platform :-)
Sorry Marshall (glorious brand of great RIB of a bygone era), I missed on this one.
I run on LPG so fuel tank holds just a handful as needed. And I can force-start on LPG if necessary.
In any case, I know when the time comes it will be a drop tank operation ....
You guys think I should stay with the basalt 'RANGE ROVER' emblem or go silver?
I would stick to the original emblem that came with the car. And please don't put the cheapie L322 emblems! lol!
Hat off to you, that is an impressive mileage! Bravo!
wow!
indeed what a GREAT find!
actually, it was the ONLY reason I've ever bothered accessing rr.net website ... sorry I know many of you hail from there, but that forum always left a lot to be desired, for me
Now you tell me! LOL!
I will think about it ... still got a few weeks if not months before getting it all back together...
I want also to thanks Marty in "public" for helping me sort out the remote access which had never worked on my RR!
I knew sooner or later I was going to end up in some BeCM "service" type thing, but I am happy I held until we got in contact (probably should secretly partially thank the COVID-19 but this not nice to do....).
I finally got the beast running again, Marty did a lot of stuff on the BeCM and fobs everything is sync. There was some problem as I could not get the thing started, and we exchanged a lot of emails wondering which pin/cable/connector to address, until one of my mates suggested "get a jerrycan and put some fuel on it just in case" and ... and ... it was just empty! No wonder was never going to run! I had totally forgotten how much fuel was left ....
Now I am re-energized to tackle the remaining, starting by finishing wiring additional stuff (aux instruments, aux lights, 12V in the rear, and much more), finish the seats, re fit the dash, in a way, get the interior back so I can move on to the next stages of the refurbishing!
Will fish back my topic and update there ... so far so good!
I am also eager to see the results here!
Cutting vs. dropping, I had the change to go at it while the car was "naked", but I decided against it. The moment the pump goes, it will not be a bad idea at all to remove a +20 years' old tank and give a good scrub to the entire area, and the tank itself as well. Knowing you might end up doing this just once in the lifetime with the vehicle, might as well do it all and proper ....
Welcome!
Engine bay looks much more cluttered ... not a worthwhile upgrade in my opinion.
Is not so dramatic, considering the frequency of working there ... expensive as well.
But good that there are guys always thinking alternatives, this means there is still a market and interest!
I got mine in island4x4, britpart for like 12 gbp, oe was double the price (around 25). 40 sounds a lot ...
Besides the useful advice here, if you shoot me your email on PM and I can try to send you (today will be busy most of the day but I'll try)the "official" LR procedure I've found some time ago. If there is a way to upload it somewhere for the pub, I'll be glad to do it as well.
Sorry for the partial hijack - thanks Marty for the heads' up! I was going to add 12V and USB charger to the rear cig lighter also, so I think this is enough to fill up F8 in the BECM's capacity. I'll run the compressor separately with its own cable and fuse. We'll shoot you an email later on today or tonight!
Mine did dry out fully, in last year's summer soaring heat. But it took more than two full days, full day exposure. The carpet face (did that one first) was fast, the foam part (turned over) was more ... complicated. To help it I would squeeze it a little with my hands (wear gloves if necessary). I would not drive over the carpet or similar "shock" activities, the foam can break or disintegrate, or detach from the carpet backing. I know most people would not notice it, but to me a warped or ruined carpet is a disgrace to a maintained/restored interior ...
I was actually planning to use that connector (the permanent live one) to feed a 12V plug in the boot, exactly to use with the fridge. Mine draws max 6-7A, honestly I believe it should be fine.
The switched cable feed I was planning to running to besides the LPG tank and run an old Viair compressor is sitting in my garage doing nothing ... that draw is the one I am having concerns with (I think the comp draws 21 or 30 cannot find exact info).
https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1777-leather-wood-steering-wheel-restoration
Check out his job, very nicely done :-)
we wants to hear it!!! must be awesome!
Great job so far! Following with interest ...