Well, I solved the riddle .... passed by one of my "dealers" today to talk about, and I came home with 6lt of Mobil 1 5W-50 for 64 euro ... will see how it goes with this one :-)

@Harv, no I do not think is the same thing, I do remember the "magic of the nano rebuilder potion" from some years ago and dismiss it as you did.
This is just a anti-friction anti-wear additive. It costs a few euro, so I guess does not hurt to try it ...
https://www.bluechemgroup.com/en/produkt/nano-motorinnenversiegelung-schutz/

Been a while ... time for oil again!
My use has been very irregular in the last times, and I made the mistake (!) of having the P38 out of commission a couple of years with the old oil in. Thus when I had the last oil change (270K km) it did not come out nice, was very darkish and with several "blobs" or "clots" ... which I assumed it was gunk on it for the years it stayed there. Ugh ....
I put then the Comma X-Flow 10W-40 and promised me to replace it at no more than 5K km, to try to clean it up a little.
As expected, I am now hitting 280K km and had not touched it :-(

What would you guys suggest? Go again for a lesser oil and this time go for a earlier replacement, or bite the bullet and go for a proper thing? I am tempted to go for a higher grade (50 or 60), as hotter temps are coming into play and I use the beast mostly for longer, higher speed trips, and obviously the towing.
But besides the readily available 10W-60 or 15W-50, I was looking at something like the "Motul Classic" which claims it has among the highest quantity of ZDDP additive, which I gather is a welcome plus for our venerable powerplants ....
The Motul Classic on 15W-50 does not seem to hold the same viscosity at higher temps like the 8100 10W-60 for example, but the ZDDP additive should be a valuable contribution. I am wondering if a 15W isn't too much for winter, though, which here is not so bad as years ago, but cold nevertheless ...

A friend has also suggested I try a product called Pro-Tec Nano Engine Protect ... which I might try, shouldn't hurt!

Ideas? Suggestions?

What causes them to leak, other than old age, is heaving on the pipes where they go through the bulkhead if you are trying to get the underbonnet hoses off.

I soon need to address the hoses as they look awful and 'seeping' coolant (plus I want to reroute the LPG reducer) and to minimize the 'stress' on the pipes by simply - and carefully - cutting away the hoses' ends with a sharp knife. Will see....

I recently had the chance to hear a lot of P38s in different configurations ( I actually need to update you guys on recent developments), and I can tell the 'straight pipe' with the original backboxes and the cats, there is no droning, but a hearty and robust sound.
straight pipes and sport backboxes (those small that look like cherry pipes) and is LOUD, and very pleasant but ... loud!
another dude has straight pipe and no cats and no backboxes (just straigh out) and it is LOOOOUD you cannot survive it.
lastly, no cats straight pipe and backboxes is pleasantly rumblish resembling an American muscle car, but it does drone and is very bothering if your ears do not like that frequency.

Thus I meant ... and is an L320 Sport spoiler. Thanks!

Yes, if you have access there are music shop specialists that can re-cone and put new membranes to your old speakers.
Have done this to a friend old Audi and another with a G-Klasse, both with unique speakers.
Although I have put new speakers on mine directly, just a matter of matching size and impedance.

Nice car!
Good luck on the sale!

PS: what's that rear wing thing with the third brake light? Never seen such ... is it unique to the 50th-s?

Might be a stupid question, but how old are those plugs? And while you check 'live values', can you get access to the lamda data? I am very wary of both spark plugs and O2 sensors failing over time, perhaps not entirely but sufficient to give wrong readings which upset the fuel trims ...

Wholehearted agree on the visco removal, really makes life easier. I've replaced recently my top-hose while, to the t-stat, and it is much easier. Plus you can re-set it at the right torque, whereas I had a lot of trouble loosening up what the previous mechanic did ...

What a curious thing that the 'pub' it's got two members who hail from remote and tiny Bulgaria, and that are into P38s :-)
Indeed worth noting.
Awaiting these developments, there is always interest to 'upgrade' some aspects to the XXI century ...

If you push the cam a little bit into place, together with moving the handle and wiggling the entire contraption, it will go into place! Do not lose heart!
PS: do not forget some harsh language, always helpful!

I tried and tried to do it with the zip tie and was unable to do it that way. I also did not understand much the wording, but if you have everything disassembled in front of you, it becomes clearer. In any case, I used only one zip tie, to keep the key barrel "aside" from the spring area, the rest pure brute force and lots of swear words, a lot.
Have fun!

I've checked again ... 0.00 and/or 0.06 randomly, depressing the pedal makes no difference. With engine "on", same data, even depressing the pedal.
I've tried when on gear but I get a "ERROR connection" message, likely the ECU does not support movement after a certain speed ... maybe I should try in L1 so it goes very slow under whatever threshold was defined at Solihull ....

I saw them all at 0.00 and randomly 0.06 but I will check again tomorrow more carefully ...

However, the readings I want to know is whether the two brake light switches should both be the same (both open and then both closed when the brake pedal is pressed) or if they should swap over so one open and one closed as on my GEMS.

Overcome with joy as I finally have a faultless ABS-TC system, I confirm that both switches change position at the same time on my '99, I have checked with the Nano a while earlier.
In my case only one was "switching" (number 2 with the CC vacuum pipe), the problem was a faulty connection in the damn C0229 by the RH footwell, pin 14 with a Green/Purple wire, that sends a signal to the ABS ECU when the pedal is depressed. Finally fixed!! Finally the thing is working and no bothering beep beeps.
I suggest to all to check that connection, and also pin 9 Yellow/Purple cable on the same connector, again from brake switch to ABS and ECM ECUs (probably this is the TC signal).

What a drag! Drilling and pliers were successful, but a lot of struggling!
The culprit was the metal part on the lid to close the batteries' circuit, it had dislodged and thus blocking the movement.
The replacement lid would not fit with the o-ring, discarded and hops it fits.
Everything works, albeit randomly (1 time in 5) decided "not" to work so I have to use the key. No big deal, I least I got rid of the damn chime and key battery low message ...

With some dexterity you can get at it if you remove the fog lamp ... a lot of dexterity! :-)

This thread is priceless, as is the whole "pub" :-)

I am in despair as I have been fighting the damn battery lid on the fob, so far just mangling the darn thing, which I had already replaced few years ago. It seems every battery change goes along with a battery lid ... shucks.
Next attempt will be the twin-hole drilling and pliers as indicated here ... really a bugger.

Great to have always someone ahead with a solution to every problem!

Great then! Live on, and drive on happily!!!

My money is on the window regulator, either the glass "loose" on its plastic (nylon?) bushes, or the entire mechanism to the door (I had this on my rear left door, one of the rivets had become loose). I think when the window is "up" and wedged against the frame, it has nowhere to go and thus does not rattle.

Is a common problem across older cars ... my woman's former car (Micra) has been doing this for a long time (10 years now), the rattling persists, but the mechanism does not break. Lazily, I don't deal with it yet ....