Please be very careful with the small screws Richard is talking about. The level of flimsiness in the RRP38's plastics here reach one of its top levels, as the screws are long and thin, and the fan has some plastic "tubes" to which the screws attach to. Force your way and you'll break the housing, which means the fan will be dangling around and making noise as it moves around.
There is also not much place where to glue it back, so long story short ... be gentle.
One wonders what where these chaps thinking during design phase, with their endless faith in shitty plastic.

I think you, like me, need an exorcist!
I have a recurrent failure that is addressed as "brake switch failure" but I went through three already.
I discovered I have a "rough road" input even when the vehicle is standing, so I suspect ABS sensor(s) are the culprit.
When I have time I will pursue that option, since all data to the ABS ECU comes actually from them.

Many newer vehicles come with the same type of barrier.
Assuming yours has never been messed around with, the only way I have found to take it in one piece is to take a sharp utility knife, and cut/slice through the black goo. Take your time and cut slowly, "peeling" the cover away.
Particular care must be taken around the door lever area, and note the white "studs" holding the sound box (if you have high end audio) and the woofer/speaker are put 'after' the barrier. Just cut squares to leave the studs in place and free the barrier (easier to do it than to explain it).
If you are careful and take your time, can remove the barrier whole and re-use it multiple times. The "goo" attaches again every time, no need for duct tape or other unworthy methods :-)

Lately, have not been using the queen too much, so I decided to do a long time planned thing ... first a good pressure wash the underside, then on ramps and armed with brush and Fertan went through every spot with some corrosion.
Let it dry and wiped the excess, and then another few hours (around 4, actually) with Protecta (I assume is equivalent to the Hammerite you find in UK) ... I think it should be good and ready for the winter season!

About my ABS woes, I have not time to go through the wiring, but I noticed connecting the Nano that the "rough road" signal fluctuates between 0 and 12V even when I am doing manouvering speed in flat tarmac. I suspect then one of the sensors is acting up, and sending a signal the ABS ECU interprets as "rough road". Will follow this on the next possible opportunity.

Airbags: I recently bought rears from Island, they were marked 2016. Interesting fact, they replaced the ones that had "dis-soldered" themselves (the rubber from the plastic cup, that is), that were also marked 2016 ... and I bought them "in" 2016.
Oh well.
Maybe we will all move to normal springs after supplies run out, and live happily ever-after :-))))

I use this old topic to mention a weird matter ... I had a brake switch error and I bought a new one and replaced it.
I cleared the fault with the Nano and start the car - no errors.
The moment I depress the brake, beep beep and ABS/TC failure.
Same error, 01-07 Brake Switch Failure. Clear fault and will not show up until I depress the pedal again.

Anyone has an idea of where to look, assuming the switch I mounted is not faulty from new?

The cruise control works fine, so I assume the other switch is okay.

Sorry to hear about this misadventure ... I had this happening to me on a engine that was "using a little oil" and ended up being worse than a 2stroke ... I am very wary now of buying such a complex item such as engine secondhand ...

Me progress? Well, after endless time I finally refitted the tubing for the cruise control ... it works again!
I noticed sometimes it raises and dips the engine revs, like "hunting" to stabilize the right speed. Might be normal, but I do not recall this behavior before.

I also re-sync the fob ... finally I can remote open and close the car, like every other modern car!
Unfortunately I was met with a "key battery low" message, but the lid in the fob is truly stuck! I will have to destroy and get another one .... darn

This is good to know!

After mine failed, and stupidly gave 30 euros to the wreck truck for something I have been thinking in years to replace, I recommend to plan to do it a specific intervals.
By the way, mine failed when getting warm, not hot. And the cooling was not necessary overnight, after a couple hours would start again - which was what tricked me ...

Good nice looking!

Me, I finally got around to change that pesky brake switch which was giving me continuous beeps and errors.
Hope later to get it out on the highway and see if the cruise control came back as well ...
Next in line refit door cards.

I know of no way to remove the switches except by getting the console in the dash off.
They fit from the rear, not the front, and the switches are actually larger than the hole you see in the dash :-)

I have to take everything off to replace a couple burnt bulbs, but the price of these is staggering so I am ... delaying that.

If you notice, the cable towards the OBD in the car is a plastic plug on both ends.
The "Nano side" plug has metal borders, like old PC cables, and the Nano chassis too.

Connect first the "live" OBD and sometimes you can touch in an improper manner plug/Nano chassis when connecting, and you can see a little spark and hop! it goes the 5A fuse. Not always, but after happening to me a couple times I understood better leave the Nano side connected first ...

If you lift the fusebox with the three bolts as Richard indicated, be VERY careful what you do with it and how you lean it while you mess around under it, unless you first take the battery out. It is live down there, I once propped it aside while testing something and it moved to touch something and burned out a bunch of fuses. Dunno what happened, I was messing around inside the car and I heard a crackle of electricity and stuff stopped functioning ....

Indeed differently ... in the time I "suspended" use of the P38, I used an Audi A6 30V (this is the '90s model) quattro for towing duties. Performance wise it was okay even with a heavy load, and the manual trans was also not a problem, consumption difference was not noticeable, but the car's behavior was: butt-heavy (remember the original weight distribution in old Audis is horrible), but especially more fore-aft "shaking" - don't know how to define it, like the car gets "moved" by the trailer back and forth. This was with standard suspension.
I have as a plaything a S6 of the same vintage, with sport suspension and that lovely V8 (always in manual) and the effect is much less noticeable, while the engine pull is considerably better ....

I would advise against removal, unless you need to. Better don't mess around with it ...

My experience with towing is far less than Richard's but I do agree with a proper "shape" the towing isn't that bad on the consumption. I recon 10 to 30% more depending on how enthusiastic you drive. There are other tow vehicles with are far worse ...
Certainly it isn't the fastest tower around, but is a good ride. I usually keep it out of D (4th) when loaded unless the road is absolutely flat, and engine is above 2k as above indicated. Between 2 and 2.5 I find is the sweet spot for a balance between a good response and a reasonable consumption.

Yeah, and is a good idea indeed!

At 50 quid for a new one you may not want to take the risk : o) this failure is starting to sound fairly common

To be honest, I did order a new one, I opened the box and ... left it there. I went and got a 2nd hand OE.
The quality is really SH*Tpart for this item, at least the one I got delivered ...

Mine also took the belt cover and the top hose.
Just imagine what would happen if the bonnet is open and someone working on the engine ....

Sorry to hear, I had the same happening to me, in addition to all the damage described above, I also had - have, as I have no mended them yet - a little squashed the gearbox to oil cooler pipes.
Mine was also original, and this occurred a few weeks after replacing the viscous and the water pump.
I put the culprit in the work done, which somehow de-stabilized the fan and accelerated its destruction, but I guess will never know.
On the other hand, thanks to this I found out my rad was 1/3 clogged, and this was the reason for my perennial engine heat/overheat.
So I think the fan failure was a result of fatigue from "over working".

Unfortunately, I still have not replaced the hood, but worse, I cannot find a sound deadener in reasonable condition ....

My drain pipes - and I assume many others - were full of crap and gunk at the very bottom, where there is a concoction that looks like a rubber flap/valve. This does not allow bigger debris, like leaves, to pass, and it clogs the flap/valve, and the water level ... rises.
I removed them all entirely, I never understood their purpose anyway.

About "raining in", once I left the sunroof slightly open in the tilt position, and got a stain inside after some summer rain with wind. Curiously, my mate's Audi was parked in the same position with the sunroof opened as well, and got nothing in. Teutonic supremacy?