I had this problem and it was exactly that, the CKP which was going KO after some minutes into warm operation.
Luckily you could take it to the garage to have it replaced and did not leave you stranded somewhere!
RAVE says "there is no backup or alternative procedure for engine start if CKP fails" so is worth replacing it beforehand.

Made a beginner's mistake parking in the garage and nicked the front bumper ... darn, did not need that ... it broke like glass, now I need also to add that to the long list of things to do ... never a moment of rest :-(

I have never seen that type of tape before, I will ask some friends that are in construction.
The one Pierre mentions, you can find it easily in LIDL on offer sometimes, made by 3M comes on grey or black, very strong and resistant. It is quite "large" for something like a P38 door, but I cut it through its length and make it ... "slimmer"

Anyone know where to find one of the mythical Safety Devices racks?

That really would be a unique find!!!
I think they must have sold a dozen or so, and disappeared from the catalogue early on ... pity

Interesting to see they are still available - good to know.

Do not put any chemicals to try to wipe or clean, you will make a mess the "goo" starts to liquify (?) or "melt" you will not want to clean that mess lol! Ask me how I know...
As suggested, scrape as much as you can and then put the new one on top... you can "squash" it fairly good upon mounting - just be careful to press on the door metal and not on some "hole" and therefore breaking the shedder.
I have taken them out and refit them a number of times, even with some taken from a breaker car, and never "cleaned" more that the old with a putty knife ... a little left does not affect the "new" one, the material does not break down on time.

Just don't scratch it with your fingernails ... also a bad idea :-)

I am also from "another side" ... and do not drive on the wrong side of the road LOL

This place is of invaluable worth for the P38 enthusiast, and not only, but motoring as well, intended as real motoring and not just cruising around in a tin can like the future that are shaping for the car driver.
Also has the right "vibe", very difficult to find nowadays.
And, being a forum, the information "stays", always to be retrieved as the need arises.

If this place could "materialize", I imagine it cozy with all wooden tables and chairs, a slight haze of smoke, big jugs of beer and other spirits, and busy conversation with repetitive explosions of laughter!
Can't visualize yet other types of "jugs", but I assume we can work that out too!

Welcome!

This was a lot of money, but surely looked like a nice lot!
Only the sunblinds were worth 1/3 to half of the asking bid, if you ask me ...
https://auction.dunsfold.com/lot/518

Likewise this "pub" has saved my life :-)
Me for one, always interested if parts come about ... you never know!

Well, not much info to start with ... what "ecm" are you talking about? Engine? or airbag?
If you cannot connect after a few attempts (I have such issues with the hevac, he connects randomly), consider the possibility that the airbag ECU has no power, and therefore does not "talk" at all. Is one simple option (check fuse), but to get to the ECU you need to get some stuff out ....

To get the rocker covers out, how do you deal with the Thor "bunch of bananas" intake? Is it in the way?
Someday I gotta do this job as well. ....

JCML, don't despair, you never know! Keep searching!

I've had a little loss since a long time, and I also gave it as "endemic RV8 issue", until I found that by pure chance that my 'top hose' has a weep, most wicked on its rear, towards the alternator pulley! Nearly impossible to see, I've discovered only because I was running my fingers through it seeing how to change the aux belt!
You never know ....

My oil also goes down, I've always suspected is burnt, but after the episode above I've run my hands (gloved!) through the entire engine and found out a 'weep' at the rear of the rocker gasket (where the coils are), and down the engine in the bellhousing. Better to leak than to burn, if you ask me ...
It is very relaxing and pleasant to "touch" your engine, has some sort of almost erotic thing to it ... lol

All is well that ends well :-)

The "box of bits" that comes with a new (used) car is invaluable to understand what the PO was trying, or succeed at, doing.
Always very indicative ...

Agree with the above, in winter these cars excel, much better than similar vintage four-wheel drives and nowadays called "suvs". But is expected ... is a proper Range Rover, after all.

Mine, after a suspicious and persistent noise at cold start-up, I've identified the culprit in the idler pulley. I find it strange, and hope I am right, but I've ordered one (genuine of course), and related serpentine belt.
I've ordered the same that it was mounted on (Contitech 7K2337, Made in UK), but rummaging through some spares I've found I had a brand new Dayco 7K2335 (again Made in UK). Darn...
Now I wonder which one to fit. The Conti worked seamlessly for 30K km now, but it became noisy. Thoughts?

I've also found a weep in the top-hose, remnant of when the fan disintegrated and probably damaged it. Ordered as well (genuine, don't want to take no chances with the cooling ...).

Finally came time to do this long postponed task.
I obviously did not remember to check in advance the topic (which I had earmarked since long time), so I did not think of the zip tie trick. Lots of fumbling and swearing came handy to finish the job however.
I will try the zip-tie trick when I do the driver's door (LH as I am LHD), as I see to have misplaced STC3063 ... I did only the passenger's door as I found only STC3064 in my spares' box.

I also replaced the pull-handle from a spare I had laying around. I recommend that if your original part is very worn. It wears in the rod that sticks to the cam, and also in the front (towards front of the car) where it pivots every time is used.
Both front and rear handles are the same in this regard, so you can use a rear one, less used.

The part that is unique is front vs. rear, so you need to re-use yours, provided is not too worn.
I wanted to replace also the plastic cover, as mine was very "whitish", but I was unable to remove the cover from the metal assembly. Any tips there?

To be fair to LR their plastics are no more shitty than anyone else’s and they really only design for a product life not exceeding 10 years. When dealing with 20 year plus plastics then some brittleness is to be expected no matter who the manufacturer is.
Garvin, I tend to disagree ... plastics from Mercedes and Audi cars until the mid 90s are far more robust, and pliable as well. They just resist better on time, regardless of use. I guess it all depends, as you rightly put it, on the "product life expectation". A W124 Mercedes seems designed and built with a far greater expectation ... so were the times!
Pity.

But back on the subject, how did it go with the dreaded fan?

Please be very careful with the small screws Richard is talking about. The level of flimsiness in the RRP38's plastics here reach one of its top levels, as the screws are long and thin, and the fan has some plastic "tubes" to which the screws attach to. Force your way and you'll break the housing, which means the fan will be dangling around and making noise as it moves around.
There is also not much place where to glue it back, so long story short ... be gentle.
One wonders what where these chaps thinking during design phase, with their endless faith in shitty plastic.

I think you, like me, need an exorcist!
I have a recurrent failure that is addressed as "brake switch failure" but I went through three already.
I discovered I have a "rough road" input even when the vehicle is standing, so I suspect ABS sensor(s) are the culprit.
When I have time I will pursue that option, since all data to the ABS ECU comes actually from them.

Many newer vehicles come with the same type of barrier.
Assuming yours has never been messed around with, the only way I have found to take it in one piece is to take a sharp utility knife, and cut/slice through the black goo. Take your time and cut slowly, "peeling" the cover away.
Particular care must be taken around the door lever area, and note the white "studs" holding the sound box (if you have high end audio) and the woofer/speaker are put 'after' the barrier. Just cut squares to leave the studs in place and free the barrier (easier to do it than to explain it).
If you are careful and take your time, can remove the barrier whole and re-use it multiple times. The "goo" attaches again every time, no need for duct tape or other unworthy methods :-)

Lately, have not been using the queen too much, so I decided to do a long time planned thing ... first a good pressure wash the underside, then on ramps and armed with brush and Fertan went through every spot with some corrosion.
Let it dry and wiped the excess, and then another few hours (around 4, actually) with Protecta (I assume is equivalent to the Hammerite you find in UK) ... I think it should be good and ready for the winter season!

About my ABS woes, I have not time to go through the wiring, but I noticed connecting the Nano that the "rough road" signal fluctuates between 0 and 12V even when I am doing manouvering speed in flat tarmac. I suspect then one of the sensors is acting up, and sending a signal the ABS ECU interprets as "rough road". Will follow this on the next possible opportunity.

Airbags: I recently bought rears from Island, they were marked 2016. Interesting fact, they replaced the ones that had "dis-soldered" themselves (the rubber from the plastic cup, that is), that were also marked 2016 ... and I bought them "in" 2016.
Oh well.
Maybe we will all move to normal springs after supplies run out, and live happily ever-after :-))))