If I recall correctly, is a small silver-ish box located besides the steering wheel, inside the dashboard. For mine LHD is on the left of the wheel, towards the door, I assume the position in a RHD vehicle should be same, but "right" of the wheel.
I think you get to it only by removing the under steering wheel cover.

Except a passenger door handle from a LHD car won't have a lock in it......
No, the lock no certainly, but that is why I was wondering if the thing can be taken apart sufficiently like to fit one.
I will next week do my driver's side (with the lock) and make some photos of the innards.

Some parts are swappable - for example the forward part of the handle (the one you pull), for my front passenger side I used a "rear" one, that was like new (the plastic bit that gets into the cam), and they are the same.

Darn, my English must be worse that I thought .... :-) will try to re-phrase
It is clear that "left" and right are the same whether the car is LHD or RHD.
What I was trying to say is, if the "right" side (RH) becomes difficult to source new, one option could be to use a good LHD "passenger" door handle, generally less used, and good for you UK guys on the "driver" side.
It is an advantage of parts that are swappable in between LHD and RHD cars ...

In my previous life, for several of the cars we were restoring we would do as described: wire brush, normal brush, various thinners, etc.
Then one time one of our upholsterers told me "why you make my life difficult, leaving residues of the goo, or worse, making a mess with the thinner? When the foam starts to disintegrate and is time to remove the old headlining, just lay it on the floor, start the high-pressure washer and just spray it all away!".
It was like my eyes opened for the first time, I have never imagined cleaning a headlining would be so easy!
After that revelation, cleaning and prepping the headlining for reupholster became a very straightforward affair.

I admit I have not tried that on the P38, that was in an the earlier stage ... but all the ones that came later went super easy.

From another topic, it seems NTC3064, which is the repair kit for the door handle, RH side, is becoming difficult to find.
That would be the driver's door for you guys "on the wrong side" :-)
I've replaced mine and noticed the cam of the lock are sided, you can't swap left to right and vice versa.
As a (possibly hopeless) alternative, we could compare a RH RHD driver handle with a RH LHD passenger handle, if the cam is located in the same position, then it could be a source for you RHD guys that use the RH door way more than the rest ...
Seeing STC3063 (LH side) is readily available I've order it and will take apart the handle and make photos for comparison.

I had this problem and it was exactly that, the CKP which was going KO after some minutes into warm operation.
Luckily you could take it to the garage to have it replaced and did not leave you stranded somewhere!
RAVE says "there is no backup or alternative procedure for engine start if CKP fails" so is worth replacing it beforehand.

Made a beginner's mistake parking in the garage and nicked the front bumper ... darn, did not need that ... it broke like glass, now I need also to add that to the long list of things to do ... never a moment of rest :-(

I have never seen that type of tape before, I will ask some friends that are in construction.
The one Pierre mentions, you can find it easily in LIDL on offer sometimes, made by 3M comes on grey or black, very strong and resistant. It is quite "large" for something like a P38 door, but I cut it through its length and make it ... "slimmer"

Anyone know where to find one of the mythical Safety Devices racks?

That really would be a unique find!!!
I think they must have sold a dozen or so, and disappeared from the catalogue early on ... pity

Interesting to see they are still available - good to know.

Do not put any chemicals to try to wipe or clean, you will make a mess the "goo" starts to liquify (?) or "melt" you will not want to clean that mess lol! Ask me how I know...
As suggested, scrape as much as you can and then put the new one on top... you can "squash" it fairly good upon mounting - just be careful to press on the door metal and not on some "hole" and therefore breaking the shedder.
I have taken them out and refit them a number of times, even with some taken from a breaker car, and never "cleaned" more that the old with a putty knife ... a little left does not affect the "new" one, the material does not break down on time.

Just don't scratch it with your fingernails ... also a bad idea :-)

I am also from "another side" ... and do not drive on the wrong side of the road LOL

This place is of invaluable worth for the P38 enthusiast, and not only, but motoring as well, intended as real motoring and not just cruising around in a tin can like the future that are shaping for the car driver.
Also has the right "vibe", very difficult to find nowadays.
And, being a forum, the information "stays", always to be retrieved as the need arises.

If this place could "materialize", I imagine it cozy with all wooden tables and chairs, a slight haze of smoke, big jugs of beer and other spirits, and busy conversation with repetitive explosions of laughter!
Can't visualize yet other types of "jugs", but I assume we can work that out too!

Welcome!

This was a lot of money, but surely looked like a nice lot!
Only the sunblinds were worth 1/3 to half of the asking bid, if you ask me ...
https://auction.dunsfold.com/lot/518

Likewise this "pub" has saved my life :-)
Me for one, always interested if parts come about ... you never know!

Well, not much info to start with ... what "ecm" are you talking about? Engine? or airbag?
If you cannot connect after a few attempts (I have such issues with the hevac, he connects randomly), consider the possibility that the airbag ECU has no power, and therefore does not "talk" at all. Is one simple option (check fuse), but to get to the ECU you need to get some stuff out ....

To get the rocker covers out, how do you deal with the Thor "bunch of bananas" intake? Is it in the way?
Someday I gotta do this job as well. ....

JCML, don't despair, you never know! Keep searching!

I've had a little loss since a long time, and I also gave it as "endemic RV8 issue", until I found that by pure chance that my 'top hose' has a weep, most wicked on its rear, towards the alternator pulley! Nearly impossible to see, I've discovered only because I was running my fingers through it seeing how to change the aux belt!
You never know ....

My oil also goes down, I've always suspected is burnt, but after the episode above I've run my hands (gloved!) through the entire engine and found out a 'weep' at the rear of the rocker gasket (where the coils are), and down the engine in the bellhousing. Better to leak than to burn, if you ask me ...
It is very relaxing and pleasant to "touch" your engine, has some sort of almost erotic thing to it ... lol

All is well that ends well :-)

The "box of bits" that comes with a new (used) car is invaluable to understand what the PO was trying, or succeed at, doing.
Always very indicative ...

Agree with the above, in winter these cars excel, much better than similar vintage four-wheel drives and nowadays called "suvs". But is expected ... is a proper Range Rover, after all.

Mine, after a suspicious and persistent noise at cold start-up, I've identified the culprit in the idler pulley. I find it strange, and hope I am right, but I've ordered one (genuine of course), and related serpentine belt.
I've ordered the same that it was mounted on (Contitech 7K2337, Made in UK), but rummaging through some spares I've found I had a brand new Dayco 7K2335 (again Made in UK). Darn...
Now I wonder which one to fit. The Conti worked seamlessly for 30K km now, but it became noisy. Thoughts?

I've also found a weep in the top-hose, remnant of when the fan disintegrated and probably damaged it. Ordered as well (genuine, don't want to take no chances with the cooling ...).

Finally came time to do this long postponed task.
I obviously did not remember to check in advance the topic (which I had earmarked since long time), so I did not think of the zip tie trick. Lots of fumbling and swearing came handy to finish the job however.
I will try the zip-tie trick when I do the driver's door (LH as I am LHD), as I see to have misplaced STC3063 ... I did only the passenger's door as I found only STC3064 in my spares' box.

I also replaced the pull-handle from a spare I had laying around. I recommend that if your original part is very worn. It wears in the rod that sticks to the cam, and also in the front (towards front of the car) where it pivots every time is used.
Both front and rear handles are the same in this regard, so you can use a rear one, less used.

The part that is unique is front vs. rear, so you need to re-use yours, provided is not too worn.
I wanted to replace also the plastic cover, as mine was very "whitish", but I was unable to remove the cover from the metal assembly. Any tips there?

To be fair to LR their plastics are no more shitty than anyone else’s and they really only design for a product life not exceeding 10 years. When dealing with 20 year plus plastics then some brittleness is to be expected no matter who the manufacturer is.
Garvin, I tend to disagree ... plastics from Mercedes and Audi cars until the mid 90s are far more robust, and pliable as well. They just resist better on time, regardless of use. I guess it all depends, as you rightly put it, on the "product life expectation". A W124 Mercedes seems designed and built with a far greater expectation ... so were the times!
Pity.

But back on the subject, how did it go with the dreaded fan?