Yes, if you have access there are music shop specialists that can re-cone and put new membranes to your old speakers.
Have done this to a friend old Audi and another with a G-Klasse, both with unique speakers.
Although I have put new speakers on mine directly, just a matter of matching size and impedance.

Nice car!
Good luck on the sale!

PS: what's that rear wing thing with the third brake light? Never seen such ... is it unique to the 50th-s?

Might be a stupid question, but how old are those plugs? And while you check 'live values', can you get access to the lamda data? I am very wary of both spark plugs and O2 sensors failing over time, perhaps not entirely but sufficient to give wrong readings which upset the fuel trims ...

Wholehearted agree on the visco removal, really makes life easier. I've replaced recently my top-hose while, to the t-stat, and it is much easier. Plus you can re-set it at the right torque, whereas I had a lot of trouble loosening up what the previous mechanic did ...

What a curious thing that the 'pub' it's got two members who hail from remote and tiny Bulgaria, and that are into P38s :-)
Indeed worth noting.
Awaiting these developments, there is always interest to 'upgrade' some aspects to the XXI century ...

If you push the cam a little bit into place, together with moving the handle and wiggling the entire contraption, it will go into place! Do not lose heart!
PS: do not forget some harsh language, always helpful!

I tried and tried to do it with the zip tie and was unable to do it that way. I also did not understand much the wording, but if you have everything disassembled in front of you, it becomes clearer. In any case, I used only one zip tie, to keep the key barrel "aside" from the spring area, the rest pure brute force and lots of swear words, a lot.
Have fun!

I've checked again ... 0.00 and/or 0.06 randomly, depressing the pedal makes no difference. With engine "on", same data, even depressing the pedal.
I've tried when on gear but I get a "ERROR connection" message, likely the ECU does not support movement after a certain speed ... maybe I should try in L1 so it goes very slow under whatever threshold was defined at Solihull ....

I saw them all at 0.00 and randomly 0.06 but I will check again tomorrow more carefully ...

However, the readings I want to know is whether the two brake light switches should both be the same (both open and then both closed when the brake pedal is pressed) or if they should swap over so one open and one closed as on my GEMS.

Overcome with joy as I finally have a faultless ABS-TC system, I confirm that both switches change position at the same time on my '99, I have checked with the Nano a while earlier.
In my case only one was "switching" (number 2 with the CC vacuum pipe), the problem was a faulty connection in the damn C0229 by the RH footwell, pin 14 with a Green/Purple wire, that sends a signal to the ABS ECU when the pedal is depressed. Finally fixed!! Finally the thing is working and no bothering beep beeps.
I suggest to all to check that connection, and also pin 9 Yellow/Purple cable on the same connector, again from brake switch to ABS and ECM ECUs (probably this is the TC signal).

What a drag! Drilling and pliers were successful, but a lot of struggling!
The culprit was the metal part on the lid to close the batteries' circuit, it had dislodged and thus blocking the movement.
The replacement lid would not fit with the o-ring, discarded and hops it fits.
Everything works, albeit randomly (1 time in 5) decided "not" to work so I have to use the key. No big deal, I least I got rid of the damn chime and key battery low message ...

With some dexterity you can get at it if you remove the fog lamp ... a lot of dexterity! :-)

This thread is priceless, as is the whole "pub" :-)

I am in despair as I have been fighting the damn battery lid on the fob, so far just mangling the darn thing, which I had already replaced few years ago. It seems every battery change goes along with a battery lid ... shucks.
Next attempt will be the twin-hole drilling and pliers as indicated here ... really a bugger.

Great to have always someone ahead with a solution to every problem!

Great then! Live on, and drive on happily!!!

My money is on the window regulator, either the glass "loose" on its plastic (nylon?) bushes, or the entire mechanism to the door (I had this on my rear left door, one of the rivets had become loose). I think when the window is "up" and wedged against the frame, it has nowhere to go and thus does not rattle.

Is a common problem across older cars ... my woman's former car (Micra) has been doing this for a long time (10 years now), the rattling persists, but the mechanism does not break. Lazily, I don't deal with it yet ....

If I recall correctly, is a small silver-ish box located besides the steering wheel, inside the dashboard. For mine LHD is on the left of the wheel, towards the door, I assume the position in a RHD vehicle should be same, but "right" of the wheel.
I think you get to it only by removing the under steering wheel cover.

Except a passenger door handle from a LHD car won't have a lock in it......
No, the lock no certainly, but that is why I was wondering if the thing can be taken apart sufficiently like to fit one.
I will next week do my driver's side (with the lock) and make some photos of the innards.

Some parts are swappable - for example the forward part of the handle (the one you pull), for my front passenger side I used a "rear" one, that was like new (the plastic bit that gets into the cam), and they are the same.

Darn, my English must be worse that I thought .... :-) will try to re-phrase
It is clear that "left" and right are the same whether the car is LHD or RHD.
What I was trying to say is, if the "right" side (RH) becomes difficult to source new, one option could be to use a good LHD "passenger" door handle, generally less used, and good for you UK guys on the "driver" side.
It is an advantage of parts that are swappable in between LHD and RHD cars ...

In my previous life, for several of the cars we were restoring we would do as described: wire brush, normal brush, various thinners, etc.
Then one time one of our upholsterers told me "why you make my life difficult, leaving residues of the goo, or worse, making a mess with the thinner? When the foam starts to disintegrate and is time to remove the old headlining, just lay it on the floor, start the high-pressure washer and just spray it all away!".
It was like my eyes opened for the first time, I have never imagined cleaning a headlining would be so easy!
After that revelation, cleaning and prepping the headlining for reupholster became a very straightforward affair.

I admit I have not tried that on the P38, that was in an the earlier stage ... but all the ones that came later went super easy.

From another topic, it seems NTC3064, which is the repair kit for the door handle, RH side, is becoming difficult to find.
That would be the driver's door for you guys "on the wrong side" :-)
I've replaced mine and noticed the cam of the lock are sided, you can't swap left to right and vice versa.
As a (possibly hopeless) alternative, we could compare a RH RHD driver handle with a RH LHD passenger handle, if the cam is located in the same position, then it could be a source for you RHD guys that use the RH door way more than the rest ...
Seeing STC3063 (LH side) is readily available I've order it and will take apart the handle and make photos for comparison.