I’m wondering if a little heat and some gentle persuasion would straighten that bumper,,

Have you checked the TPS, they can make it pop, fart, not respond to throttle..

I’m another that wouldn’t mind mine done, I’ve seen yours and they look ace

Just a heads up, there’s a nano on eBay, £270 at the minute,, £355 buy it now, on gems ,,

Ebay number 363061680520

dhallworth wrote:

There’s one bell housing bolt on the drivers side of the car, feel down the side of the engine. It’s not easily visible and is tucked above the starter motor. It can be awkward to see if you don’t know it’s there. I made the same mistake when I took my first couple of engines out.

The starter motor is bolted to the block and not the gearbox so can be left in situ when removing/reinstalling the engine.

Once all the bolts are out it should split very easily.

David.

I’m with David on this one, just above the starter if I recall correctly,, just run your hand round, engine side, then gearbox side, they hide that one bolt somewhere 😂🤣

I agree with the rad taken out, it’s sometimes easier to get at the top bell housing bolts with the inlet manifold removed, put a ratchet strap around the chassis and under gear box to take the weight, last but not least, fold the bonnet back to the screen, flip down the locking tabs on the inside of the hinges, that bonnet weighs a lot..

The turning of the hub won’t show any play, it’s near on impossible to get it to show play, if you had new joints you’d see how much harder there are to move side to side, keep an old disc for if ever you need to remove the hub bearing, ( bolt on backwards, and beat crap out of it) the ball joints I find relatively easy, some have had fights with them,, if you go that direction drop me a message, I’ll run you through it start to finish

My leds light up the kerb as well,, I can actually see when it’s dark now, lol

That sort of money, I’d hang on for one of the halfords advanced, they often come up on eBay around that price.. (£50)

Gilbertd wrote:

and not only the oil. One reason why I keep well away from diesels, other than I know naff all about them, is your hands go black just by opening the bonnet.....

Ain’t that the truth 😂🤣

I’ve known island4x4 since they were based in a large shed on the isle of sheppey, they were always helpful, wouldn’t send out a part that wasn’t upto spec, the starter motor in a blue box,, if you order air bags ( suspension) they can come in a blue box, but, there genuine Dunlop, as long as it’s OEM there shouldn’t be a problem, starter motors aren’t exactly rocket science, so I can’t see there being any problems with it, if there was island would change I don’t doubt for one second.

The beauty of lpg, clean running, unfortunately my isn’t working, grrr and now there taking lpg away from only garage near me

Gilbertd wrote:

Chop the ends off a track rod......

You might have a great idea there, I’ve got all the steering bars,, if not, bit of pipe off ebay, all the decent metal merchants seem to of closed down ☹️

Just on the off chance, does anyone have a spare jack handle floating around they want to sell, I did a dump run and other half’s daughter threw it away thinking it was rubbish 🤬😡

That’s classy, I must order a set 🤣😂🤣😂

romanrob wrote:

Retired welding engineer ? A useful guy to have on the team !!

Luckily we don’t own discovery’s, or he would be bombarded 🤣😂

Welcome tarphenry

Lpgc wrote:

I've been on the floor under many thousands of vehicles for extended periods including hundreds of P38s.

If I'm doing 'on the floor' and not working on wheels/suspension my favourite method for raising a vehicle is to drive it onto concrete blocks.

But with Rangerover's it's so handy to be able to press a button and have the car lift itself up, no driving onto concrete blocks necessary.

With most of the Rangerovers I converted I just pressed the button and crept underneath, loads of headroom. On only a few of the Rangerovers I've been under have I felt it necessary to prop the body (including a few P38s I converted that were on bump stops when they came in...).

If I have to jack anything I'll try to leave both jack and axle stands under the vehicle sharing the weight and adding stability. Still, if a spring failed... But considering the vehicle has been driving around for years/miles and the spring hasn't failed it would have to be 'my time' and a freak accident for anything that untoward to happen. Although electronics on Rangerovers may decide to vent air from airbags at anytime, or airbags might suddenly blow, I've come to trust that won't happen.

But I do sometimes push the risks a bit... some of you have seen (on forum) pics of the Nissan I had resting on gas tanks while I dropped it's engine out from below..

After addressing all the obvious crush safety concerns my biggest worry under cars is the amount of crap I'll be getting in my eyes. I get loads of bits in eyes, mostly very minor issues but around 3 times per year I'll get something in an eye that messes with my eyes for several days. Can't wear goggles etc, can't see well enough through them.

Simon,
I’m like you, don’t like Goggles, I found a pair in tool station, more like a diving mask, find them quite comfortable to be honest, saved my eyes from a load of c#@p,, might be worth a look, I’ll see if I can find a link, no 64367,, made by UVEX

https://www.toolstation.com/workwear-safety/safety-eyewear/c243

The two problems I’ve ever found is either the pressure switch, or the sphere , both are readily available, i don’t know anyone whose pulled these apart yet 🤣

You say bad wobble, are you sure it’s not the tyres, death wobble ( as it’s known ) is awful, try putting back wheels on the front.. otherwise it’s my favourite, ball joints, or radius arm bushes, it’s worth doing both if you intend keeping for any time.
As for jacking the car, I’m like Richard, I put on high and shimmy under,, I understand concerns, but Richard has covered it..

Does that mean I’ll finely be able to upload pics 🤣😂🤣