Only time I had fuel go off, was my first motorbike, my dad took it off me cos I was only 15, 3 months later went to start it, nothing, fresh petrol and it went, but I'm sure fuels will have more additives now than near on 40 years ago, lol
Gems are a pita to do the torque converter bolts, a bloody great plate removed, but only 2 points you can get at, I'd rather do a Thor through the hole any day, I normally mark the front pulley after I've got first one lined up at 3.6 & 9. Then even alone it's easier to do. Glad your up and running
Cheers mark
Does it use the same screen set up as the old one ? As my screen hasn't changed and I've still not got postcode option when inputting data
Sloth wrote:
If its a later P38, it'll have the two speakers on the top of the box, and either an amplifier inside, or a small black box on the outside (like a door amp).
If you've got a later one with the two speakers, once the screws are out from each speaker, you should be able to prise each speaker up and out - its probably got some sticky foam rings under the rim of each one that are quite well stuck in there. But they will come out.
The early ones have a single speaker mounted internally, with an amplifier on the outside.
I think there's 2 types, (with twin speakers) as with mine with the HK system, the amp is mounted to the bottom of the speakers, so as said, it's a complete removal of sub , then split the casing, great idea or wot , lol
You can use other speakers, just mount the pcb on the side and extend cables to speakers, the thing with second hand speakers if from a p38, they will be minimum 15yrs old !
If it's like mine, the pcb board is inside the sub, bolted to the magnet part of the speakers, so you need to split the box, a pita I know !
I've rebuilt a few engines now, and never have a problem with air locks, I fill the engine from the top hose, then connect that to rad, I then lift the expansion bottle up as much as I can and crack the heater hoses, lpg regulator, then start the sucker up, might take another litre after that when the stat opens.
Any top up after that is minimal , and usually nothing needs bleeding again.
The sensor is on the air box, the wiring should be a continuation from the maf, if it's gems, as for upper cylinder lubricant, it's not a standard part of an lpg conversion, it's an extra that I've looked at, but not come across any yet fitted to any of the p38s I've worked on
RutlandRover wrote:
Do you live on the moon?!
The nearest store to my house is 10 miles away which isn't too bad but I do at least get delivery as an option.
One just down the road, obviously has a crap stock. When I tried others it was pick up only from Kent, I live in Essex, straight line mileage,, but my rangie don't like going across the Thames estuary without the bridge, lol
Wow, seems as though where I live, not available for pick up or delivery. Tried different hand tools, and a new tool chest, If I wanna drive 50 miles to get anything I'm ok, lol
I saw this in the other 'similar items' area on eBay:
16grand, 12 k on the clock, at least mine with 145k has still got the battery cover, must put the price up by 20 quid, lol
Notice how they don't show the boot, bet the gun cabinets aren't there, lol
Mine sits really high on normal, think the idiot before me played around, I use manual and drop it to motorway.. another thing to do when laptop decides to recognise my lead,,
Will pop down to neighbour and email you them, I still haven't sussed how to post here yet,,
Sent pics
There's many bad installs of lpg, some of the conversions are more diy than professional install, instead of splitting and joining into the loom, they're plug and play, but it leaves a lot of excess wiring.
My system ( landi renzo) may not be the best around, but at least it was all soldered into the loom, so it's reasonably tidy..
Having that box behind the battery on the Thor is a god send, my LPG ecu is tucked away in there.
One I've just done has cats and middle box only,, straight through after that, certainly lets people know it's a v8, I've worked on quite a few with that set up. I got stainless all the way ( including hi flow cats) from east coast for less than 200quid, the cats are still in my garage, will/ might get round to fitting at some point, I like the quietness, then the rumble as you floor it, then they know it's a v8 😁
Watching this thread with interest. I've always had both my cables set with no slack, I've never had any problems with gear change or kick down , as mentioned you could work it by hand and I don't think it would make the slightest difference. Is it possible that maybe there's some pattern sensors on some cars,, I used one once, lasted a few months before I had problems, readings were all over the place, which would of course cause problems.
We've all bought our cars second hand and don't know the full history,,
Our cars rely on running 100% as so many sensors are linked to something else, will carry on following the thread with interest..
dhallworth wrote:
I tried Euro Car Parts in Glasgow today for the water pump and belt tensioner as I want to get on with it but there's nothing in stock anywhere. Drives me nuts! Patience isn't a strong point!
David.
I know what you mean about no where stocks our parts, I had the fan belt snap on my old dse, I was right outside GSF, no problem I thought, as it's a BMW engine,, WRONG ! 2 days to get a belt,,
You can get the software free from rsw solutions , then either buy or make a lead, you can just pull the pipe, but you will get pressure from the pipe, it could be o rings gone ( there's 2) or a bad pipe, I always take a small slither off the end and chamfer with a pencil sharpener, a scratch on the pipe can cause as many problems as a bad o ring. As you've said, once done, fire it up with door open, if your compressor is good it will lift after 4-5 minutes,,