rangerovers.pub
The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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If mine event got nicked, I've got receipts and photos for everything I've done, if the buggers didn't pay out THERE valuation I'd kick off for sure, with the work done its most probably worth more, but another one would give me something to do, lol

Island4x4 were better when they were on isle of sheppey, was a lot smaller, more personal and good service, I think they've grown so much they've lost that personal touch, Sam who works there was always helpful and went out of his way to help.. Back to thread though, are they gonna change them ?

You've got the proof in there message they knew it was damaged, I've never heard because someone belongs to a Range Rover club, qualifies them as an engineer, total bull, I would get a quote to have it drilled and tapped, if they don't want to at least pay for that then I'd get onto eBay, I understand you need the heads, but there's plenty of other breakers

Well there's a great advert for emmotts, note to self AVOID them,, what complete wankers,, excuse my French. They advertise something that isn't as described,, did you get through eBay, or use PayPal, I'd get in contact with them if you did and show pics and response from them,

Any chance of running a tap down it and inserting a stud ? Must admit if I'd received them I might be tempted to take a trip and insert them somewhere 😁

Bring back the good old days, when with a dynamo you could bump start a caf with no battery in it, lol, although stuff pushing a rangie to bump it

I've not used, so don't know about sequence changing, but sounds a bit odd too be honest, as for torque I would of though 70-80 max, I had a read up and it's said stretch bolts are about 85 torque after the 2 x 90 and once settled,, wish someone told mine that, lol

There's times when I wish someone would steal mine, insurance company valued it at 4.5 k , sure I can find another for that, lol

riddlemethis wrote:

Thats the problem Chris, we spend so much doing one repair that when the others come along we feel compounded to get our money's worth .

Just reading your car history, cant believe youve had 14 RR, that really is an addiction to pain and suffering .lol.

Remember my first, a 71 classic 2 door, no power steering, clutch you needed 2 feet to push, couldn't pass a petrol station,, being 6'4 I find they suit me,, did look at RRS and l322 , but still stuck with p38,, I must be a sucker for punishment 😀

I know what you mean about spending, I renewed everything on my front end, just bought a short engine after finding my block is twisted, I'm wondering what's next, gotta luv ya p38

Gilbertd wrote:

They ain't Titanium, they're steel. They have the course UNC thread on one end to go into the block and a much finer thread and a hex hole on the other end so you can screw them into the block. The finer thread means there's much more control on the tension. That and the fact you only need to torque them down to 65-70 ft/lbs means you don't need a scaffold pole on the end of the socket to do them up!. For ease of use alone, I wouldn't use stretch bolts ever again.

I'm only going on what I was reading last night re arp studs, and it said they were titanium, slap on the hands for believing what I read, lol.. I've actually used stretch bolts on the first 4.6 I had and torqued them down to 70lb, I just presumed that was the torque, worked ok surprisingly enough,, was thinking old school and didn't read up on stretch bolts,,,

riddlemethis wrote:

I missed that in my link, must read more carefully.
So still cheaper at Rimmer Bro's though. I think I will stick with the original LR stretch bolts, I cant justify the cost .

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID009546

I agree with you, after all it's just a bit of studding made from titanium, never had any problems using £10 stretch bolts from island4x4

Glad you got the final bolt out, must of been really buggered if the griptight socket was slipping off.. Your find you will use these sockets often if you got the same as me, sometimes rather than fight the crap, I just use one of them to undo bolts, cleans the crap off at the same time, lol, I'm wondering how much valve guide replacement is, I've got 2 heads that have had seats recut ect sitting in my garage, not saying that the guides need doing, just matching recon.

Try Dave at east coast rangies, he doesn't list all his stuff on eBay, I think he's back from hols this week,, 07527953807. If he doesn't have id be surprised

Morat wrote:

You know it makes sense :)

Was thinking more of a sticky plaster or duct tape 😀

That's interesting, when my engine comes out in a few weeks, I'm going to strip front right wheel area down, will pop the bag out and have a look, drop steering box, generally have a good look around that wheel arch area, ive changed everything on the axle, so know that's not the problem.. Will report back when I do it..

Oh dear, the famous rear head bolt, I bought a set of griptight sockets ( made by Chicago brand) to get mine off, not cheap, but have used many times since. If you get, make sure 1/2 drive, I snapped the 3/8 drive one, guy said you didn't use air gun ? No I said, just forgot to mention 2 ft torque wrench and 3 ft scaffold pole, lol. Otherwise I could post you my socket to use if it helps you out,, if you need to borrow, drop me a pm,, chris

Just realised mentioned these before, offer still stands if you need to borrow

Orangebean wrote:

That's an interesting one Chris. <br>
From what I remember your Kahn's didn't look super wide. Do you run a lot of extra offset on them or something? <br>
I've not seen anything like this reported on other forums when others have put beefy boots on. Looks like you've discovered that rare beast- a truly new P38 problem...

Looks like mine has possibly had a front ender before, so could be a weak point, as I mentioned he's only come across this once before, but I'm grateful for his knowledge

OldShep56 wrote:

I can just see the tears if you repair said crack and it still clunks lol

It's something my step father has only come across once before, he's such a smart ass, lol, took him 3 days to find before, so I'm lucky in some respects..

OldShep56 wrote:

I can just see the tears if you repair said crack and it still clunks lol

Don't know about tears, can see a can of petrol and a box of matches