Fair comment Richard. I guess the trade off is high and inflated vs folded and uninflated, and with no pressure in the air lines. So maybe axle stands under the chassis to high ride height -1 inch, and then exhaust the EAS is a better compromise? Or fit High calibration blocks and send to Access height
For the EAS: I would just depressurise with nanocom and leave it on the bump stops. Disconnect the battery (from an unlocked state). If you're keen put axles stands under the axles.
Fronts I don't know/ don't have. The rear bumper is an ABS skin over a steel bumper. You will need to drill into both, therefore. For the steel, something like one of those conical drills works quite well. Where you need to drill both layers will be slightly curved, not difficult, but just so you know, as it means you wont get an exact circle. You don't need to remove the bumper, indeed I probably recommend you don't if your bumper hasn't been off for some time. Then thread the wires through the holes/ fit the sensors to the bumper. The wires on mine then go up into the spare wheel well, where they're plugged into the controller, and link up to the speaker provided
On Richard's point, if you can get 18mm rather than 21mm I probably would, just for ease of fitting.
Hi Leo
Welcome... you're right, rr.pub is less trying than the other RR sites, more support, less abuse... Where you based? Did you come over from LZ?
Lpgc wrote:
Is the ATF cooler built into the radiator and is the gearbox full of coolant...
Good idea, but the 50th has separate rad and gear cooler
Gilbertd wrote:
Although checking it with the engine running as you're supposed to could get rather messy if it's blowing fluid out the dipstick tube......
True... in which case better to just drain whatever's in there and start again...
Ah. so my clue was in " i turned engine off and checked the level", in the original post. You'll need to check it the right way Phil, and then report back.
ok, so now a. it works, or b. it exposed the next problem... ?! (Gearbox aside)
I saw ur vid, No 2, so was waiting for the question :o) You checked the level while running, changing through the gears etc ? But breather sounds a good suggestion. Or maybe the fluid needs changing, after this long God knows what's happened to it, could even be full of EP90 !!
BTW, my gearbox level happened to be Min the other day and it took me two turkey baisters (60ml) to get to Max, which I know is not the question here, but I've seen it asked lots of times, and never truly answered
The o2 sensors are hopping around at idle too.
Just to close this one out for anyone following. Injectors were professionally cleaned, problem solved...
Maybe... on my GEMS the plug from engine harness to gearbox (behind left rocker cover) was unplugged. On the nano it gave me a message to say something like "invalid throttle angle data", when I drove it the gear changes were very clunky, although it did change below 2600. Take a look at the tps/ its connection, most likely. Just a thought, no doubt there are other, scarier, possibilities :o)
FYI I had a long standing request with Black Box on whether or not turning off EKA deprives the operator of one means of remobilising a non NAS car or disables the active immobilisation. They just replied referring me to RAVE ie they, or the guy who does their Forum updates, don't know themselves.
Perhaps if someone has Testbook documentation it might be described in there?. I have now asked BBS, but it seems they're not really bothered
can you find a counter sunk screw with a head big enough to fit in the channel on the rubbing strip, but a thread fine enough to push into the cupsac?
Dave 3d, your tow hitch looks awesome
i'd be more worried about what extra problems my P38 would present after being laid up for a few months... then the saving of a few months road tax might not seem so attractive
About 30 years ago (before Google) at Billing Aquadrome (just a Land Rover show, at a country park, albeit on the off-road course) a winch cable snapped, and killed the driver (cable shot straight back through the windscreen). If a recovery point fails you may well be worried about more than cutting and welding a new one. You want the strongest recovery gear you can get - rated to exceed the pull of the winch (or snatch etc etc). Of course if the standard towing eyes are the only option in the field then that's what you'll have to go with, but better to be prepared if you can. Many moons ago I had to get a tractor to recover my Series 3 from a "green lane" they're not all dirt roads, and this time of year are likely to be more brown than green. This is why most LR clubs have the rule about recovery points, it sounds like overkill, until it's not.
On the rear, as I said, you should be able to find a bow shackle to fit the towbar directly, assuming you can get the swan neck off. And don't forget to remove the lower skirt on the front bumper
kultur wrote:
There are 2 recovery points on the vehicle from the factory. They protrude from the bumper and are fairly obvious when you see them. One in the front and one on the back.
These are not to be confused with the factory tie-down points used during towing. The tie-down points are underneath the car and face downward.
Not sure I wd trust those for off road recovery, fine to be winched onto a flat bed by the AA though
You shd always have a recovery point, most wd say front and rear, but you're stuck for a front on a RR, unless you start drilling, so one may do. make sure you're in front :-)
I wd suggest you remove the ball hitch ( if you can!!) it's held on by an m16 bolt iirc and I had to beat it, heat it, and then grind the rust off... Then either replace the bolt and put a bow shackle around it or you may be able to get the pin of a large bow shackle to go straight through the bolt holes.
What am I missing? Type p38 pollen filters into eBay and you'll have them at the drop of a hat...