Looks like the logic of depressurising a workshop compressor is to reduce the amount of condensate produced on standing (and then to allow for said condensate to be drained from the plug). I guess the P38 EAS is better in that it will has some in-line dryer capacity. I've just made a mental note to go and drain both my shop compressor and the EAS

He's saying then just the key is reqd....but as I say, not sure if he's really tested it, or just crossed his fingers. He says in another post he trickle charges the batteries. So I doubt he has had the flat battery type scenario anyway. He also has diesels rather than V8s

They're also saying that the becm will accept eka enabling, but I doubt it would take the edit in an alarmed state.

There must be LR documentation on this, but I haven't come across it yet

If you're interested: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/ignition-key.357463/

But Harv, a tyre is a completely different animal (even if deflating them, once they're on stands takes less than a few minutes)... More comparable is my shop work compressor (also contains a pressure chamber, o rings, connectors, air lines etc), where the manufacturers recommend not to leave the system pressurised.
No biggie, clearly EAS is designed for it, and I wouldn't bother with it myself. I'm thinking more long term. I cant see any downside in doing it though, assuming damp air has not been introduced as part of the depressurisation.
The other thing I was wondering about though is whether there is any surface treatment recommended for the air springs eg wax or silicone spray to slow the wear/ ageing process. I've never fitted new air springs, but curious to know if the fitting guides come with any guidance like that

The LZ bloke reckons that EKA disabled disables EKA, and crucially, removes the need for a fob press to de-activate the alarm - so the mechanical key in the door (assuming micro-switches work) will de-activate the alarm etc. Says he has two P38s running this way - I'm just not sure that he's really tested it ie no flat batteries/ failed micro-switches have stress-tested the set-up. If you have nano and post v36 BeCM then disabling EKA just seems to be inviting trouble.

Just did a search and found Richard's 2017 experience about the lengths he had to go to to de-activate the alarm - so now I have the full picture... if your microswitches go down in the background, with EKA disabled, then you end up removing the door card and grounding wires, hoping at the same time you're not super-locked.

Guy on LZ reckons that disabling the EKA on nanocom ( as well as disabling the passive immobilisation) means that the car no longer requires the EKA in it s alarmed state ( obviously) but also no longer requires a fob signal - it will simply accept the key to restart from an alarmed state.

What do we think? Plausible? Still not sure I want to disable EKA until I see it in LR documentation with my own eyes

Fair comment Richard. I guess the trade off is high and inflated vs folded and uninflated, and with no pressure in the air lines. So maybe axle stands under the chassis to high ride height -1 inch, and then exhaust the EAS is a better compromise? Or fit High calibration blocks and send to Access height

For the EAS: I would just depressurise with nanocom and leave it on the bump stops. Disconnect the battery (from an unlocked state). If you're keen put axles stands under the axles.

Fronts I don't know/ don't have. The rear bumper is an ABS skin over a steel bumper. You will need to drill into both, therefore. For the steel, something like one of those conical drills works quite well. Where you need to drill both layers will be slightly curved, not difficult, but just so you know, as it means you wont get an exact circle. You don't need to remove the bumper, indeed I probably recommend you don't if your bumper hasn't been off for some time. Then thread the wires through the holes/ fit the sensors to the bumper. The wires on mine then go up into the spare wheel well, where they're plugged into the controller, and link up to the speaker provided
On Richard's point, if you can get 18mm rather than 21mm I probably would, just for ease of fitting.

Hi Leo

Welcome... you're right, rr.pub is less trying than the other RR sites, more support, less abuse... Where you based? Did you come over from LZ?

Lpgc wrote:

Is the ATF cooler built into the radiator and is the gearbox full of coolant...

Good idea, but the 50th has separate rad and gear cooler

Gilbertd wrote:

Although checking it with the engine running as you're supposed to could get rather messy if it's blowing fluid out the dipstick tube......
True... in which case better to just drain whatever's in there and start again...

Ah. so my clue was in " i turned engine off and checked the level", in the original post. You'll need to check it the right way Phil, and then report back.

ok, so now a. it works, or b. it exposed the next problem... ?! (Gearbox aside)

I saw ur vid, No 2, so was waiting for the question :o) You checked the level while running, changing through the gears etc ? But breather sounds a good suggestion. Or maybe the fluid needs changing, after this long God knows what's happened to it, could even be full of EP90 !!

BTW, my gearbox level happened to be Min the other day and it took me two turkey baisters (60ml) to get to Max, which I know is not the question here, but I've seen it asked lots of times, and never truly answered

The o2 sensors are hopping around at idle too.

Just to close this one out for anyone following. Injectors were professionally cleaned, problem solved...

Maybe... on my GEMS the plug from engine harness to gearbox (behind left rocker cover) was unplugged. On the nano it gave me a message to say something like "invalid throttle angle data", when I drove it the gear changes were very clunky, although it did change below 2600. Take a look at the tps/ its connection, most likely. Just a thought, no doubt there are other, scarier, possibilities :o)

FYI I had a long standing request with Black Box on whether or not turning off EKA deprives the operator of one means of remobilising a non NAS car or disables the active immobilisation. They just replied referring me to RAVE ie they, or the guy who does their Forum updates, don't know themselves.
Perhaps if someone has Testbook documentation it might be described in there?. I have now asked BBS, but it seems they're not really bothered

can you find a counter sunk screw with a head big enough to fit in the channel on the rubbing strip, but a thread fine enough to push into the cupsac?