What are those things for ? Mine are the worse for wear, and I need some new ones...does anyone have a name for them? - or part code :o)
Either that or a D
I think now mine usually runs around 93/94 degrees (post a new rad, t/stat, ect sensor and water pump), a shade left of centre on the gauge. Bottom end of the gauge is around 85 or so, mid is 95-102. I think my light comes on a bit higher, like 103+. In an overheat IIRC the needle moves into the high range first, and then the warning light comes on. I haven't tested this recently, just based on my memory of observations of near-overheats prior to my overhaul - it often happened in slow motion - traffic jam on a high street, so I could watch the events unfold in front of me.
dave3d wrote:
I was Dave4x4 on Landyzone. Don't go on there now. I got fed up with the abuse.
I know what you mean, i only joined LZ recently, but it seems like a painful experience. I thought the same thing about rr.net too when I first joined, but the community has mellowed/ matured somewhat - if you can see past the fact that the site admin have trashed it as a resource
Hi Tony, welcome....Richard, quick qn for you pls, when we put Tony's diesel on the nanocom today it had Police enabled. Should we care? It's obviously been like that for some time... Tony your car looks great btw, very impressed with the engine bay
True - I will still be keeping the nano in the glovebox, for sure
Well, I'm the kind of useful idiot rr.pub needs, so I took one for the team, using the sill button/ open window method to get to engine disabled. v37/ GEMS.
First off I did it with EKA enabled, just to be sure when I disable the engine I could get back with a. the Fob, and b. the EKA code, and yes, all fine - dash message "engine disabled enter the EKA or press the remote". Since I hadn't gone battery flat then the fob signal didn't need synching. I tried to change the EKA to "disabled" in the BeCM while the engine was disabled, but it didn't accept the change in that state.
Then I disabled EKA, wrote settings, came out and went back in again - EKA disabled. Locked the door with the fob, opened with the sill button. Turned the ignition on, this time "engine disabled, press the remote". BUT, when I went into the BECM at this point the EKA option is marked "enabled". After entering the EKA code, and going into BeCM/ Alarm the EKA setting had now reverted to "Disabled". So it appears that the BeCM always leaves the backdoor open for EKA entry, even if the EKA option has supposedly been disabled, and it doesn't actually ask for the EKA on the dash.
And as a supplement to test the key blade only theory... with EKA enabled, simulated engine disabled, the key in the door unlocks only the driver's door, and does nothing to cancel the engine disabled message on the dash - as expected then. With EKA disabled - the key in the door opens all 4 doors, and does actually cancel the engine disabled state, and the car drives away...
So it looks as if you CAN disable EKA in the BeCM, but still be able to enter the EKA (even if not asked for) - but allowing the key in the door as an extra option to getting going. The only difference with a flat battery is that the remote most likely is out of synch too - but that gives you EKA and key in the door as recovery options still.
Interested to see if others get to the same conclusion
Looks like the logic of depressurising a workshop compressor is to reduce the amount of condensate produced on standing (and then to allow for said condensate to be drained from the plug). I guess the P38 EAS is better in that it will has some in-line dryer capacity. I've just made a mental note to go and drain both my shop compressor and the EAS
He's saying then just the key is reqd....but as I say, not sure if he's really tested it, or just crossed his fingers. He says in another post he trickle charges the batteries. So I doubt he has had the flat battery type scenario anyway. He also has diesels rather than V8s
They're also saying that the becm will accept eka enabling, but I doubt it would take the edit in an alarmed state.
There must be LR documentation on this, but I haven't come across it yet
If you're interested: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/ignition-key.357463/
But Harv, a tyre is a completely different animal (even if deflating them, once they're on stands takes less than a few minutes)... More comparable is my shop work compressor (also contains a pressure chamber, o rings, connectors, air lines etc), where the manufacturers recommend not to leave the system pressurised.
No biggie, clearly EAS is designed for it, and I wouldn't bother with it myself. I'm thinking more long term. I cant see any downside in doing it though, assuming damp air has not been introduced as part of the depressurisation.
The other thing I was wondering about though is whether there is any surface treatment recommended for the air springs eg wax or silicone spray to slow the wear/ ageing process. I've never fitted new air springs, but curious to know if the fitting guides come with any guidance like that
The LZ bloke reckons that EKA disabled disables EKA, and crucially, removes the need for a fob press to de-activate the alarm - so the mechanical key in the door (assuming micro-switches work) will de-activate the alarm etc. Says he has two P38s running this way - I'm just not sure that he's really tested it ie no flat batteries/ failed micro-switches have stress-tested the set-up. If you have nano and post v36 BeCM then disabling EKA just seems to be inviting trouble.
Just did a search and found Richard's 2017 experience about the lengths he had to go to to de-activate the alarm - so now I have the full picture... if your microswitches go down in the background, with EKA disabled, then you end up removing the door card and grounding wires, hoping at the same time you're not super-locked.
Guy on LZ reckons that disabling the EKA on nanocom ( as well as disabling the passive immobilisation) means that the car no longer requires the EKA in it s alarmed state ( obviously) but also no longer requires a fob signal - it will simply accept the key to restart from an alarmed state.
What do we think? Plausible? Still not sure I want to disable EKA until I see it in LR documentation with my own eyes
Fair comment Richard. I guess the trade off is high and inflated vs folded and uninflated, and with no pressure in the air lines. So maybe axle stands under the chassis to high ride height -1 inch, and then exhaust the EAS is a better compromise? Or fit High calibration blocks and send to Access height
For the EAS: I would just depressurise with nanocom and leave it on the bump stops. Disconnect the battery (from an unlocked state). If you're keen put axles stands under the axles.
Fronts I don't know/ don't have. The rear bumper is an ABS skin over a steel bumper. You will need to drill into both, therefore. For the steel, something like one of those conical drills works quite well. Where you need to drill both layers will be slightly curved, not difficult, but just so you know, as it means you wont get an exact circle. You don't need to remove the bumper, indeed I probably recommend you don't if your bumper hasn't been off for some time. Then thread the wires through the holes/ fit the sensors to the bumper. The wires on mine then go up into the spare wheel well, where they're plugged into the controller, and link up to the speaker provided
On Richard's point, if you can get 18mm rather than 21mm I probably would, just for ease of fitting.
Hi Leo
Welcome... you're right, rr.pub is less trying than the other RR sites, more support, less abuse... Where you based? Did you come over from LZ?
Lpgc wrote:
Is the ATF cooler built into the radiator and is the gearbox full of coolant...
Good idea, but the 50th has separate rad and gear cooler
Gilbertd wrote:
Although checking it with the engine running as you're supposed to could get rather messy if it's blowing fluid out the dipstick tube......
True... in which case better to just drain whatever's in there and start again...
Ah. so my clue was in " i turned engine off and checked the level", in the original post. You'll need to check it the right way Phil, and then report back.