Kultur- I'm not sure what you though I was dishing out, but I think I was being pretty polite and trying to be inclusive.
I've done plenty of off-roading thanks - in an SIII/ Defender/ Camel DIsco - I happen to prefer a Series/ Defender as a base for off road mods - I personally have no time for lifts/ snorkels on a P38, but winches and off-road tires no problemo. Poor Leolito - you completely hijacked his welcome thread
Tnx for the vid Morat - that was pretty impressive. Kultur- fight xenophobia with xenophobia, that's what I say, you must really get wound up by Top Gear. 90%+ of these off-road mods are just for on-road posing. There are a handful of people, like your good self, that make use of the mods, but i don't think Gilbert D was referencing you - us lesser mortals just end up watching youtube off-road videos. Anyway the P38 is a poor choice of off-road vehicle, for as long as you have the terminals of every electronic system in the car lying on the floor.
In these times of coronavirus, and social distancing, I decided to whip the dash off and dig into the HEVAC looking for the source of a noxious smell. The dash came off without too much trauma, I buttoned a shirt around the s/w, so didn't bother removing it. All I found so far was that the the foam gasket on top of the heater box was completely u/s. Now contemplating removing the heater matrix to take a look at the outside of it (no loss of coolant though) - for now I'll probably plug in the dash and HEVAC and see how the HEVAC powers up. Bunch of other things now i'm in there - put a relay on the earth for the headlight switch, fix my centre console where some idiot PO cut it open, grease up the blend motors, clean out the temp sensor and tidy up the routing for the wiring.
So far I fished a rusty torx bit, and a one pound coin, out of the heater unit with a magnetic pick-up, god knows how they got there
Had a look, and found the same bulge as you, injected a bit of RTV for now. And yes, the back edge of the sunroof has a bit of give, probably around 5mm
I feel exhausted just reading that. I hope you manage to get back to the UK alright
Ah OK, so 4 big ones, and is the smaller one, by the screw-in stud for the spare, also removable? I don't want to try and pull it out if not.
Smart that they worked out how to drain the spare wheel well after wading but not protect the BeCM
Tanis - your "cut the seal" fix... how's it bearing up? would you recommend it, and what did you use to fill the gap. Ive just remounted my old seal, but it may well have shrunk and so need a cut too
What are those things for ? Mine are the worse for wear, and I need some new ones...does anyone have a name for them? - or part code :o)
Either that or a D
I think now mine usually runs around 93/94 degrees (post a new rad, t/stat, ect sensor and water pump), a shade left of centre on the gauge. Bottom end of the gauge is around 85 or so, mid is 95-102. I think my light comes on a bit higher, like 103+. In an overheat IIRC the needle moves into the high range first, and then the warning light comes on. I haven't tested this recently, just based on my memory of observations of near-overheats prior to my overhaul - it often happened in slow motion - traffic jam on a high street, so I could watch the events unfold in front of me.
dave3d wrote:
I was Dave4x4 on Landyzone. Don't go on there now. I got fed up with the abuse.
I know what you mean, i only joined LZ recently, but it seems like a painful experience. I thought the same thing about rr.net too when I first joined, but the community has mellowed/ matured somewhat - if you can see past the fact that the site admin have trashed it as a resource
Hi Tony, welcome....Richard, quick qn for you pls, when we put Tony's diesel on the nanocom today it had Police enabled. Should we care? It's obviously been like that for some time... Tony your car looks great btw, very impressed with the engine bay
True - I will still be keeping the nano in the glovebox, for sure
Well, I'm the kind of useful idiot rr.pub needs, so I took one for the team, using the sill button/ open window method to get to engine disabled. v37/ GEMS.
First off I did it with EKA enabled, just to be sure when I disable the engine I could get back with a. the Fob, and b. the EKA code, and yes, all fine - dash message "engine disabled enter the EKA or press the remote". Since I hadn't gone battery flat then the fob signal didn't need synching. I tried to change the EKA to "disabled" in the BeCM while the engine was disabled, but it didn't accept the change in that state.
Then I disabled EKA, wrote settings, came out and went back in again - EKA disabled. Locked the door with the fob, opened with the sill button. Turned the ignition on, this time "engine disabled, press the remote". BUT, when I went into the BECM at this point the EKA option is marked "enabled". After entering the EKA code, and going into BeCM/ Alarm the EKA setting had now reverted to "Disabled". So it appears that the BeCM always leaves the backdoor open for EKA entry, even if the EKA option has supposedly been disabled, and it doesn't actually ask for the EKA on the dash.
And as a supplement to test the key blade only theory... with EKA enabled, simulated engine disabled, the key in the door unlocks only the driver's door, and does nothing to cancel the engine disabled message on the dash - as expected then. With EKA disabled - the key in the door opens all 4 doors, and does actually cancel the engine disabled state, and the car drives away...
So it looks as if you CAN disable EKA in the BeCM, but still be able to enter the EKA (even if not asked for) - but allowing the key in the door as an extra option to getting going. The only difference with a flat battery is that the remote most likely is out of synch too - but that gives you EKA and key in the door as recovery options still.
Interested to see if others get to the same conclusion
Looks like the logic of depressurising a workshop compressor is to reduce the amount of condensate produced on standing (and then to allow for said condensate to be drained from the plug). I guess the P38 EAS is better in that it will has some in-line dryer capacity. I've just made a mental note to go and drain both my shop compressor and the EAS
He's saying then just the key is reqd....but as I say, not sure if he's really tested it, or just crossed his fingers. He says in another post he trickle charges the batteries. So I doubt he has had the flat battery type scenario anyway. He also has diesels rather than V8s
They're also saying that the becm will accept eka enabling, but I doubt it would take the edit in an alarmed state.
There must be LR documentation on this, but I haven't come across it yet
If you're interested: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/ignition-key.357463/
But Harv, a tyre is a completely different animal (even if deflating them, once they're on stands takes less than a few minutes)... More comparable is my shop work compressor (also contains a pressure chamber, o rings, connectors, air lines etc), where the manufacturers recommend not to leave the system pressurised.
No biggie, clearly EAS is designed for it, and I wouldn't bother with it myself. I'm thinking more long term. I cant see any downside in doing it though, assuming damp air has not been introduced as part of the depressurisation.
The other thing I was wondering about though is whether there is any surface treatment recommended for the air springs eg wax or silicone spray to slow the wear/ ageing process. I've never fitted new air springs, but curious to know if the fitting guides come with any guidance like that
The LZ bloke reckons that EKA disabled disables EKA, and crucially, removes the need for a fob press to de-activate the alarm - so the mechanical key in the door (assuming micro-switches work) will de-activate the alarm etc. Says he has two P38s running this way - I'm just not sure that he's really tested it ie no flat batteries/ failed micro-switches have stress-tested the set-up. If you have nano and post v36 BeCM then disabling EKA just seems to be inviting trouble.
Just did a search and found Richard's 2017 experience about the lengths he had to go to to de-activate the alarm - so now I have the full picture... if your microswitches go down in the background, with EKA disabled, then you end up removing the door card and grounding wires, hoping at the same time you're not super-locked.
Guy on LZ reckons that disabling the EKA on nanocom ( as well as disabling the passive immobilisation) means that the car no longer requires the EKA in it s alarmed state ( obviously) but also no longer requires a fob signal - it will simply accept the key to restart from an alarmed state.
What do we think? Plausible? Still not sure I want to disable EKA until I see it in LR documentation with my own eyes