HI Tanis
Where did you find the regulator?

Rob

Is it worth changing EKA to enabled too? Clutching at straws, as it should have nothing to do with fob sync, and yet, who knows... maybe the extra validation (from an EKA) gets the BECM to a happy place

Mine was a bit like that too. Now it's dead level, it'll still lift a fraction when I start off, but it's a uniform amount, so possibly the air bags are just all equally cooler after sitting overnight. The height sensors were working, but not all working the same IMHO, and so if they're not set up right you can get some self-levelling happening.
Quick build on the compressor, and then i made some calibration blocks for the "high setting" from a soft wood pole to put on each axle. Pull the high ride settings up on nano and write the settings back to the ECU. For the other ride heights then you will either need to make blocks for those heights too, or do the maths yourself and write the individual values to the ECU (I did the latter). I did run around spraying the EAS with washing up liquid - nada.

Haven't needed to touch it since

Are we going to have a new one of these each day? I'm gonna go visit a condemned P38 tomorrow and pull some bits off.

4.0 GEMS (Defender) done about 90k. Had it 15 years. properly serviced, never any problems. Replaced an exhaust gasket once

4.6 GEMS RR 138k miles. Bought at 130k in 2018. Limited history, but the big/ significant stuff... had a replacement engine at about 80k. Since 130k I redid both HGs, refurb'd injectors, replaced rear diff, changed gear oil cooler, radiator and a/c condenser, as well as the water pump. Removed poly bushes from front radius arms. Obviously lots of low level stuff in between.

Sam H - here's my bodge for the IAT sensor reading low https://www.rangerovers.net/threads/iat-sensor.327734/#post-2284752

I did exactly this job today... personally I put RTV under the top edge of the metal filter housing/ cover on both sides, and rtv'd the screw holes. I changed the filters a week or so ago, and they were sodden, there was a fair amount of water in there, but it hadn't got past the secondary seal (the square one in your second picture). I'm not sure it's the filter lids (put a long rubber band around the raised lip on the housing), but i RTVd the screw holes on the lids. I may RTV the top edge if i'm bored. While you're in that far blow out the drain holes in the body work with some compressed air

Logically yes, I think that's what Richard was suggesting above. at least then you'll have confirmed the issue. Presumably the dealer cd also have screwed up the vin coding in the first place

:o) i thought I would struggle too, but apparently not, i'm just letting it sit on top of a 90 degree engine. When the pump's running/ fuel recirculating the incoming fuel from the tank is all pretty cold and keeps things at 20-30 degrees, but switch off for 15 mins and you can see the fuel rail temp climb (on nano).
Now I can go back to worrying about where my mystery clunk is coming from.

Conclusion: injectors... Over the the last few weeks/months I could reliably predict that if the fuel rail was over 60 degrees at restart the engine would struggle to start. I shipped the injectors off and had them professionally tested and then cleaned. Although the pre-test did not report any leaks, and only a 1% improvement in flow, the cleaning improved the spray patterns quite alot. Today I got the fuel rail to 65 degrees, turned the key, instant start, without hesitation. Will keep my eye on it, but i think this is it. Injectortune.co.uk - good service & price

My Loctite 577 arrived. It's yellow, and quite viscous. The packaging is great, standard loctite top, and a concertina-type tube for easy application. The bead it creates is nice and small, so perfect for the narrow mating face on the top of the ram housing, and also for the lower join to the inlet manifold. Beats smearing hylomar out of a tube. At £25/ 50ml it's also "reassuringly expensive". I guess I won't really know how good it is until i next pull the plenum off and can see how it fared.
There was a comedy moment as the usual white loctite top disappeared out of sight down bore no 2 of the inlet manifold - my life flashed before my eyes as I imagined having to pull off the inlet manifold, but fortunately i managed to fish it out with a coat hanger and a bore scope

Hi Frank, On some of the younger P38s you can unlock with Nano. eg my 1998 GEMs can. Do you have (access to) a nano?

I also got a car with only one fob (admittedly it did work properly), but then invested 150 quid or so to get a spare from a dealer. Since i'm rubbish with keys that has been indispensable. For you the expense is more existential ie you have no working fob, but shop around for a better deal eg my dealer did not make an extra charge for turning the lock a couple of times and synching the fob (that's just silly). If i were you I'd spend the money on a new one, and then tinker with the old one

fair enough... both PCV hoses are good, i replaced them when I changed the HGs earlier this year, but yes, they were not in good shape, and the one on the LH rocker cover had a hole on the underside.

V8 Gems... should i care that my crankcase breather hose does not have an oil separator in it? Never has since i've had it. The exhaust smells a bit at idle, but the car doesn't noticeably burn oil. Just wondering whether I need to buy an over-priced piece of plastic or not?

Interestingly though - if you go to the Defender V8 supplement, there IS a separate section for ram housing where it recommends Hylomar for the inlet manifold to ram housing, and Loctite 577 for the ram housing to chamber

Richard, as you say, no GEMs reference for ram housing to inlet manifold - I'm just assuming that if they recommend 577 for the ram housing to plenum chamber then you can/ shd use the same.... bit of a stretch, but both joints will operate under the same temperature/ pressure conditions, bolts are torqued the same, and both are ali/ ali joints

Re the eBay link above, don't go by plug colour only, there is more than one type with a grey plug...i made that mistake, cost me a week, and an extra few sessions under the car in sub zero temps trying to figure out what the hell was wrong. You need to do part no's...to deal with a breaker you will probably need the zf part numbers which are stamped on. My 98 took an 0501 210 740. The incorrect one I got (grey plug, no breather) was 0501 211 036. Biggest difference is the foot length of the Ali casting, electrics are the same, but it won't fit and gear change properly

Nope, 19.22.46 no 49, "apply Loctite 577 to mating surfaces". 577 is also spec'd for plumbers as pipe/ thread sealant, i was hoping I would have some in my plumbers kit, but sadly no.

Hylomar Blue has been my go-to gasket sealer for a very long time, but now i'm starting to think more about when to use it. It hasn't worked at all well on the plenum mating faces, and it's a new tube.

No worries Sloth. Rave suggests Loctite 577 which is a specific "pipe sealant". I've used Hylomar twice now and it has dissolved/ disappeared. I'm going to go and find some 577

Ok, so the answer to this is, that the bores on the Thor inlet manifold are laid out as two flat pairs and two diagonal pairs, whereas the Gems is 4 diagonal pairs, so the Thor gasket won't fit.

xyz switch needs looking at. They're riveted together, but you can open them up and put bolts back on. there's also a breather hole on the earlier ones which you could just try and blast with contact cleaner first. D&R showing 3 shouldn't be possible (as all 3 micro-switches need to work to display 3), but anyway, take a look... Maybe get a 2nd hand one off ebay that you can bolt on while you fix yours. There are a few types, and they look very similar, so make sure you get the right part code.

Also, if you have any starting issues before you manage to fix the switch, fiddle with the gear selector until you find something that the dash says/thinks is P or N...