Fuel, air, spark...do you have any/all? Is MAF connected, what is the MAF reading (v)? Does the fuel rail hold pressure? What is the pressure ( if you have a gauge). Test the spark (cheap lighting up testers are available) on all cylinders.
If you've a nanocom now then what are the ECM input readings for air and fuel?

I've posted to the BECM section. Feel free to add there to the framing of the question... but BBS are not the fastest to respond

Sorry, I was being slow. I tossed my old idler unfortunately

I don't know sorry, but I doubt you can change the size? I replaced the idler last year, not expensive

I paid a guy to do it on the Defender (10+ years ago) and the RR (a year ago). (Nigel Trickett. Dorset). Waxoyl wd be a waste of time IMHO it's not hard wearing/ thick enough, trouble is I'm not sure what he DID use. I use Dinitrol cavity wax in the door frames, so would probably go for their underbody wax if i was DIYing. I out-source nothing on my cars, but under-sealing is a really filthy job, even if you have a lift for the car. There's a "Before'n'After" guy who advertises in the LR magazines - fixed price

Mahle or LR genuine (the latter's not expensive and the white cannister marked Genuine Parts makes me feel good when I'm in the engine bay - bit like buying Chanel for the wife)

I quite like Mad's idea of reversing the polarity on the pump. Do you know if ithe pump is drawing current ?

Phil, If you are under the car you should be able to hear the whine of the pump. Orange and white to blue and white should have provided power to the pump (A1-6). Perhaps disconnecting white purple to the BECM would prevent any alarm from happening. Using a clamp meter see what the current is on the blue/ white wire, or get an ammeter in line - I guess no current is not a good thing. Maybe if the car had been laid up for that long the fuel pump just died and no-one could ever be bothered to fix it? Maybe try and get the filter off next (because it looks original, which means >20 y.o., read my "difficult restart" thread for an exciting account of how to/ not to do it - heat and dremel, in the end). If it makes you feel better, if i had to get to the fuel pump I'd be seriously considering the hole in the floor method, 50th or not, the less time spent prostrate under a 2 tonne car the better IMHO and then there are all the other things which will be rusted up and a PITA to remove. The 50th may already have a hole in the floor :o) you never know your luck

Hi Don, welcome to the pub.

BTW all, are we going to do a meet in 2020? I don't have anything in particular to do to mine - maybe headlining... I also have a few Thor (i'm GEMS) parts I've accumulated that I could bring along to swap/ hand over

lpgc, you have the best stories in the pub

Determined not be the only one in the pub not to have the latest cool thing, and acknowledging Clive/ Sloth's learn-ed opinion I have ordered one too.

Hurry while stocks last.

"Quite clean" filters? Lol

HNY from Finland,
Rob

I've lost touch with two that are probably lower mileage than that, but I'd have to make some enquiries.
Mine had also sat for 5 yrs

Thanks Dave, I'll have a look at the Wade range too

tnx, I'll take a look

Richard, those little Legris fittings you found at RS... did you go the next step and put a T in the line from the EAS compressor to the block? Just curious..I wouldn't go the whole hog and put T's on all corners, but quite like the idea of being able to bypass a non-functioning pump

interesting, there's nearly an experiment there - if it were 4 on one side and 4 on t'other then we cd see what happened to the fuel trims and work out which plugs were "better"

Cheers guys, have a good one. Apart from drinking too much and playing with the kids, don't forget to set some time aside for your P38 - no better time to start on the head gasket tear-down, or EAS compressor rebuild than Christmas Day

Is it close enough to the house to leave the battery on a smart charger (at least then you have reliability)? Is your alternator definitely charging properly? For a few pounds you can get a usb socket/ voltage indicator to put in the cigarette socket and it will give you the voltage of the battery/ alternator charge - just eliminates some guess work. Perhaps unplug the blue RF receiver overnight to see if anything changes, other than that JMCs method seems as good as any