Re the eBay link above, don't go by plug colour only, there is more than one type with a grey plug...i made that mistake, cost me a week, and an extra few sessions under the car in sub zero temps trying to figure out what the hell was wrong. You need to do part no's...to deal with a breaker you will probably need the zf part numbers which are stamped on. My 98 took an 0501 210 740. The incorrect one I got (grey plug, no breather) was 0501 211 036. Biggest difference is the foot length of the Ali casting, electrics are the same, but it won't fit and gear change properly
Nope, 19.22.46 no 49, "apply Loctite 577 to mating surfaces". 577 is also spec'd for plumbers as pipe/ thread sealant, i was hoping I would have some in my plumbers kit, but sadly no.
Hylomar Blue has been my go-to gasket sealer for a very long time, but now i'm starting to think more about when to use it. It hasn't worked at all well on the plenum mating faces, and it's a new tube.
No worries Sloth. Rave suggests Loctite 577 which is a specific "pipe sealant". I've used Hylomar twice now and it has dissolved/ disappeared. I'm going to go and find some 577
Ok, so the answer to this is, that the bores on the Thor inlet manifold are laid out as two flat pairs and two diagonal pairs, whereas the Gems is 4 diagonal pairs, so the Thor gasket won't fit.
xyz switch needs looking at. They're riveted together, but you can open them up and put bolts back on. there's also a breather hole on the earlier ones which you could just try and blast with contact cleaner first. D&R showing 3 shouldn't be possible (as all 3 micro-switches need to work to display 3), but anyway, take a look... Maybe get a 2nd hand one off ebay that you can bolt on while you fix yours. There are a few types, and they look very similar, so make sure you get the right part code.
Also, if you have any starting issues before you manage to fix the switch, fiddle with the gear selector until you find something that the dash says/thinks is P or N...
I would if I could,but eBay's selling policy is hyper-narrow, and doesn't allow you to submit free text, it also doesn't seem to have a policy against fake/ misleading photos ie you can voice an objection, but can't explain why, which seems kind of pointless.
I changed the pollen filters the other day. I think what may have happened is some (spray) cavity wax that i was using to coat the windscreen wiper mechanism may have contaminated the cabin air intakes in the plenum, and to an extent the filters themselves. Changing the filters has helped, but I'll probably need to pull the filter housings, and make sure everything is cleaned out, and then make sure the drains are completely clear, for good measure
This guy (aka Lancashire Sports and Performance) was responsible for selling me my P38 a couple of years back off of Car and Classic. He claimed to be a "P38 specialist" but his inability to fault check basic things makes us look like Charles Spencer King ( ie he's either incompetent, or a liar). Apart from a load of cr** he spun me about the car, MOT etc, he also advertised it using fake pictures - when you're advertising a numbered limited edition that's a pretty dumb thing to do, right?
Anyway - this guy is so brazen he is now using the same set of pictures (ie the ones that were supposedly of my car, but weren't) to sell another 50th Range Rover. I guess he got kicked off car and classic and so has just set up an ebay account, feedback 1. I know we pub-folk aren't necessarily in the market for a second/ third P38 anyway, but just be warned, go in with your eyes wide open if you do ever get tempted to deal with him.
Gents,
I know the GEMS does not "need" a gasket between the inlet manifold and the lower plenum/ trumpet section. But on the other hand is there any harm in fitting one? Whenever i've unbolted the section (ok, so only 3 times) there seems to evidence of the inlet galleries talking to one another (though not that there is leaking to/ from the outside) ie i can see a brown oily film between galleries, where there wd only have been blue hylomar on assembly. I though I could nail it with the ERR6621 gasket ? Thoughts?
Unfortunately my injectors are off for cleaning at the moment...along with plenum/ trumpets
There's a technical service bulletin on this. I did what it said , and it changed nothing. Lowering the seat base helped a bit
My cruddy video on here - 136 views, lol
I hand-tightened an M5 nut on the stud just now, so that's your boy
Maybe just the one I did, but if you press the rubber bushing out you can then use a hacksaw blade to put a relief cut in the outer metal casing of what was the bush. Then get an air chisel and push it out, while at the same time not damaging the panhard rod itself. Its v easy. I still don't own a hydraulic press.
Using the bearing race method for the radius arms is v easy, it just goes down the m12 thread. Minimum hands required
Gents - in the vid the rev counter registers nothing even though the engine cranks - should it?
BTW David, if you are going to replace the a/c compressor (why do you think you need to? ) you will be wanting to replace the receiver/ drier too
Well, you can understand it if they're being asked to redo the air con, cooling system and alternator, none of which can be completed without an engine which starts. But on the other hand I agree, they must be pretty crap mechanics if they can't check the fuel, spark and air.
David and I have been conversing off-line, hence my head start. I forgot to tell him when recommending rr.pub that he will be burned at the stake here if he is on coils :o
David, see if you can get this working https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.flemcodesign.gems.gemsutility
Welcome David. David's dropped in from Hawaii - he has a 1998 4.6L. Unless Bolt pops up he won't have Nanocom access any time soon. Agree on fuel... hit the schrader valve on the fuel rail, covered by a rag, and check you have pressure; check all the multi-plugs you see are connected (esp TPS/ IACV on the plenum, and ECT on the nose of the engine. Check the HT leads are firmly on, and that the ignition coil multi-plug (rear RHS of the engine as you view from the front) is all hooked up. I was also thinking CKP/ CPS - the engine cranks but does not fire. So not immobilised. Just need to keep the battery topped up/ trickle charged.
No need to worry about EAS/ cooling system/ air con just yet - in fact i'd almost recommend you send those parts straight back for now, so you don't get sucked into replacing parts for the hell of it (which can make diagnosis even more difficult). The alternator you said looks sick, but once the car's running it's worth testing with a multi-meter to be sure. For later, but is your truck on coils or air bags?