Looks like you're back in business again Richard? I see your replies on the check the brake lines thread...

Just got back to base after taking the Defender to Dorset, and popped the bonnet on the P38 to spray up the connection from the engine loom to the gearbox at the rear LH of the engine by the transmission dipstick (since I was getting multiple errors ie both throttle and torque seemed like an obvious place to go). Once i'd done that and plugged it back in then the gearbox fault still registered, but the difference this time was that the Nano cleared the errors... Can't be sure the connector was properly clipped up in the first place (doh !! ). Problem solved. Tnx for your help GD

I did the tracking ( but not toe) myself after having to change one of the TREs on the drag link. Get the wheels into dead ahead. Use a silver pen/ paint and mark off the orientation of the adjuster. Your steering wheel is marginally left or right at this point.
Keeping the steering lock off :-) Loosen both clamps on the tracking adjuster, and then adjust the drag link to correct s/w alignment, put a spirit level on top of the steering wheel if you want - the s/w wheel will turn as you adjust the drag link. Tighten, and then check alignmnent on a road run. The paint marks of your start point will help you work out which way and how much you may need to adjust again, if at all. Before you tighten remember to make sure both TREs are aligned in the same vertical axis.

This won't help if someone refitted the s/w wrong, obv

That's not a bad looking engine bay

+1 on Irwin nut removers, give them a few good whacks with the hammer before turning. Don't worry about the exact size, pick the smallest one that fits. Irwin just seems to follow imp sizing, and thermoset metric equivalent. Those splines will cut into the soft nut, once it's on though leave it on until you have got it off ( ie don't take it on and off).
Nut splitter (and impact wrench) if you have enough room to get one on ( the supporting outer ring is very thick, so you need enough clearance around the nut).
I know the grinder option has been discounted, but do you have a dremel and cutting disc? That saved me a bunch of times, ie being able to cut from a different angle and better access

Shame you got banned without knowing why, GD/RG, I was looking fwd to hearing that story

yes, could be worse. I whipped off the TPS itself just now and sprayed that up, made no difference.

v odd. The wiring to the TPS looks in fairly decent nick, tbh. Rave seems to confirm that dodgy TPS signals will mess with the gearbox and gear changes, so it does seem to be something along these lines. I've disconnected the battery again. How long will it be before the P38 forgets it had a gearbox fault ie stops flagging it before I can even start the engine? (Nanocom won't let me delete it). I was just hoping if it was a bogus error it might go away after cutting off the power :o)

yep, makes sense - seems like wiring or a sensor. The closed throttle position is giving 0.625 v, which I understand is in range. It's annoying as I suppose it is just one little fix away. Anyway, I'm away for a week, so guess I will take the trusty Defender.

btw - have reset adaptive values on nano, following the HG rebuild. Also, nano is not able to clear the gear box fault, even at position 2 on the ignition ie engine off.

No sooner had I fixed the RH head gasket than .... gearbox fault....

I don't believe it's the battery,.... nanocom says "invalid throttle angle data", and then scrolling right says "engine torque fault.... On a short test drive i feel the box changing down as i brake (where before all was silky smooth), and it doesn't feel happy.
When I was doing the HG it was on a 10 degree slope (to my garage) for a couple of weeks. There's definitely D3 in it, need to wait until it has cooled to be sure of the level, but it was all v smooth before, and there's no reason to believe there's been a catastrophic leak while it has been stationary. The battery was disconnected during that time, I've put it on charge just in case.
And the sunroof spat out a rubber seal today too, but i'll deal with that another time...

Took a while to get machined - now back in and engine seems to be fine, first time, however, I shall be starting a new thread with something else !!

Hi Dave, I just use EP90. My local motor factors sell Granville everything, and I decided that my 20 y.o. vehicle doesn't really warrant high end branded lubricants. My eyes glazed over at the synthetic gear oil recommendation - a bridge too far IMHO
Re Loctite I have blue 243 that I use 99 pc of the time (medium strength), then I have red 270 (for parts that do not require disassembly) and green 648 (retaining compound, for things that really, really do not require disassembly). I'm frightened to use the 648 - it's actually designed to apply to the half shaft/ diff or half shaft/drive flange to stop any clunking when drive is taken up so seriously heavy duty. I didn't use it in the end, as it turned out it was the diff itself that needed replacing, and the half shafts were fine.
I noticed (on the larger bolts especially) that the loctite needs to be fresh when it's bolted up, else it can be hard work (feels as if there's a crossed thread), which will also throw out the torquing-up process.

Get a Defender Mazz, I have not spent 1/10th of the time on my V8 Defender that I have spent on the P38 . That said, there are still plenty of second hand shockers to watch out for, depending on how much they have been abused, but far fewer points of failure than a P38. Find one that has lived in the city (it will probably be silver lol).

+1 on BF Goodrich AT - they're standard on the 50th Defender as 265/75 R16, and seem to last 40k+ miles. On the P38 i'm using 255/55 R18 Goodyear efficiency at the mo, c 140 pounds fitted and balanced

They go in at 40 pound foot, easy enough, but coming out they'll be corroded in, and I wd avoid Allen sockets like the plague, torx at a push. I wd stick with the 12 point 3/8 coarse, not perfect, but ok.

Might be worth considering studs, but it will then be harder to remove the manifold in situ ( ie you will need to clear the ends of the studs)

So are we the Judaean People's Front, or the People's Front of Judaea?

Maybe it's cos Boris Johnson's in, the CIA is sensitive about intelligence sharing with the Brits now

I just got the same message... still at least we have each other, right? :o)

I never used to on my S3, but now I carry 3 different Loctites. It's amazing what a difference it makes - though I'm starting to use only one thread's worth it's so efficient, and you need to drive it while it's fresh. It's also great in the rad bottom plug - plasticizes completely. Dave, weren't your brakes pulling a tad to one side?