Gilbertd wrote:

But when it's cold it has the viscosity of a 20 grade? It only remains thicker when it gets hot.

Yh.
But the only 20w50 i could get was the mineral halfords green stuff.

And tbh VR1 is a tad rich for me LOL

Changed the in tank pump today. Did the cut a hole method.

Engine oil and filter changed yesterday.
2 injectors changed

Gearbox oil and filter is on hold. The corner blocks are seized to the bolts :( Saving that job until after my next hols as need car.

Aircon condenser to change tomorrow. I changed the receiver/drier yesterday. That was a bitch of a job.

Busy week :)

Broke the drivers door internal opening handle. There appears to be a problem with the latch mechanism itself. Currently having to open the window to let myself out.

Put the same 75 w 140 full synthetic in the front diff. Interesting stuff it is crystal clear, and flows nicely when cold.
Checked all fluids, 28 psi in the fronts, 38 in the rears, ready for the trip up North at zero dark thirty tomorrow morning.....

So, I know this has been knocked around a bunch, but for my 16 in Yokohama's what do youse guys run for air pressure?
I have been running 38 and 38.............

As the book says, 28 and 38 no matter what tyres. Vredestein currently, previously Goodyear Wrangler and Pirelli Scorpion.

Smiler wrote:

Broke the drivers door internal opening handle. There appears to be a problem with the latch mechanism itself. Currently having to open the window to let myself out.

If the outside handle is working, it must be the bowden cable or the plastic part it connects to.
Both parts move a central lever.

The bowden cable connects to the metal part at the top and the inner to the v shaped lever.

Bolt wrote:

Put the same 75 w 140 full synthetic in the front diff. Interesting stuff it is crystal clear, and flows nicely when cold.
Checked all fluids, 28 psi in the fronts, 38 in the rears, ready for the trip up North at zero dark thirty tomorrow morning.....

So, I know this has been knocked around a bunch, but for my 16 in Yokohama's what do youse guys run for air pressure?
I have been running 38 and 38.............

28psi front 38psi rear.
235/70R16's
AFAIK all 3 standard tyre sizes have the same tyre pressures

tanis8472 wrote:

The bowden cable connects to the metal part at the top and the inner to the v shaped lever.

That's right. When you pull on the cable it pushes against the lever underneath it. I assume that picture isn't yours as it doesn't have enough pins in the plug but if you take it off, it's fairly obvious how the three levers operate. The rod from the outside handle pushes against the opposite side of the same lever.

Changed the oil again!!
sounds better when cold, 15w doesn't drain from the tappets like the 5w did!!

Pulled her eye out too!

Thanks for the pics Tannis.

The cable snapped two weeks ago so last weekend I replaced it. Worked ok but felt a bit odd until two days later the car wouldn't stay unlocked. The driver door latch wouldn't unlock properly even though it was trying and so the central locking would just re-lock. After trying a few things I forced the inner door opening handle which broke something inside but stopped the issue and it now locks and unlocks normally. I suspect that part of that mechanism had fouled. I haven't looked yet but suspect that the plastic bellcrank/leaver is not broken. Looks like I'll be visiting the breakers again soon.

Had that one, the crank that the cable attaches to has seized so isn't allowing the lever under it to return fully. Should be possible to free it off with a bit of lube and working it back and forth.

I run the tyres at 28/34 unless fully laden or towing. I find the rears wear the middle bit if I leave them at 38psi when lightly loaded. YMMV!

Interesting, I run at 28/38 but will sometimes up them to 30/40 (if I remember) when doing a long towing run.

Sounds fair enough to me - your towing is far more load than The Duchess ever sees.

This weekend I shall mostly be changing my coolant hoses that are at the back of the engine.

The hose from the cylinder head that feeds the heater has gone soft due to the diesel leak on number 6 injector.

Then on to clear some codes for a colleague and reset their icv after Halfords disconnected battery and didn't do a relearn on it .

The ABS and TC warning lights have magically vanished, prolly something to do with me fiddling with the heat shields.

I noticed that there seemed to be a bedraggled blackbird nesting in one of the tailpipes. A quick tug later and it turned out to be fibreglass wading from the back box
I snipped it off and went 1h20 up the road with the family. I checked when I arrived and found blackbirds in both tailpipe.
Hmmm
Back box is a Klarius (2year warranty) sourced andfitted by a local indy in may 18.
Whaddya reckon? I pay labour they provide parts?

Klarius is Euro Car Parts own brand, enough said......

Suggest they go for the Maltings Off Road one (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/range-rover-p38-exhaust-system-p38-4-0-4-6-exhaust-kit-V8-Petrol-exhaust-1994-02/272214709858) which is supplied by AllMakes, although I suspect they will just go back to ECP and get a replacement from them. You paying labour and them supplying the parts seems over generous actually. You wouldn't have need for any labour if the parts didn't need replacing.

In these times of coronavirus, and social distancing, I decided to whip the dash off and dig into the HEVAC looking for the source of a noxious smell. The dash came off without too much trauma, I buttoned a shirt around the s/w, so didn't bother removing it. All I found so far was that the the foam gasket on top of the heater box was completely u/s. Now contemplating removing the heater matrix to take a look at the outside of it (no loss of coolant though) - for now I'll probably plug in the dash and HEVAC and see how the HEVAC powers up. Bunch of other things now i'm in there - put a relay on the earth for the headlight switch, fix my centre console where some idiot PO cut it open, grease up the blend motors, clean out the temp sensor and tidy up the routing for the wiring.

So far I fished a rusty torx bit, and a one pound coin, out of the heater unit with a magnetic pick-up, god knows how they got there