I agree, South Africa is a wonderful country. I lived in Durban for a number of years.
I could finish work at 5pm and be walking the dog on the beach by 5.30pm. Not see another sole on the beach. Just me, the wife and the dog.
There are pluses and minuses wherever you live.
Another place to add to the ever-expanding list, thanks.
Jacked her up and took a front wheel off to confirm my suspicions about the front brakes. Yep, the pads have gone all the way down and trashed the disks. Stupid me.
New ones ordered for Friday, a little brake job this weekend methinks.
Same here.
My disks might as well be bent at right angles as well
I'm used to driving BMWs which have pad wear indicators. I'd better start checking more often!
Today I have mostly been....
...... Snapping caliper bolts.
Arse :(
SO. It would seem to be time to replace the caliper slides/bolts. OEM for £27 a side or Shitpart for £7.49?
I mean, a bolt is a bolt, right? but they are quite important bolts :/
I replace the whole carrier, cheap enough if you go for Shitpart and it's only a lump of metal so they can't really get it wrong https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/rear-brake-caliper-carrier-britpart-stc1907-p-26995.html or actually not that more expensive if you go for TRW https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/rear-brake-caliper-carrier-stc1907g-p-823.html assuming rears. If it's fronts, Britpart are even cheaper https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/brake-caliper-carrier-front-britpart-stc1917-p-28133.html but TRW are quite a big jump https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/brake-caliper-carrier-front-stc1917g-p-819.html or if you've just come up on the lottery, you could always go for genuine https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/brake-caliper-carrier-front-stc1917-p-33256.html.
Problem with just replacing the slides is the hole in the carrier is likely to be worn too so they will be a sloppy fit.
Fronts...
Good point about the potential issue with old holes and new sliders.
I've got full Shitpart. I feel dirty!
But at least she'll be back on the road in a couple of days.
Cheers Richard!
Ha, Morat, tell me about breaking bolts and stuff. I posted my fun and games when refitting the sunroof cassette yesterday, in the " Roof lining retrim" thread.
I had a lot of aggravation trying to refit the sunroof motor, which turned out to be the dumb-ass method of using rivnuts in a metal mounting plate. If you haven't done this job it is one to take care with. There are three plastic spacers, which just pressed into the motor legs and are a loose fit. They are also suicidal:
The bolts that you see have about 5mm thread to go into the rivnuts, but if you apply even a little bit too much torque then "boing", away goes the thread. Those bolts are about 4mm thread and give way far too easily. Then the motor drops a bit and away goes the plastic spacer. In my case one spacers disappeared under the passenger seat and down under the plastic heater vents under the seat. The second one legged it behind and under the brain-box under the drivers' seat !!!
Then I had to find three 4.5 self-tappers to replace the bolts with something a bit more "butch". The motor is now firmly held and working OK.
I probably spent more than an hour looking for both the original bolts, and spacers, during the afternoon. I was getting really cheesed off before I eventually decided it was time to go down the DIY route and make up bigger screws. One thing that was important was grinding down the self-tappers to avoid them being too long and screwing into the car roof !!
Pierre3.
Today I refitted my windscreen top trim. When I had the screen replaced a few weeks ago, I checked RAVE to see how to remove it. The instructions say to slide a credit card between the trim and the roof and push the clips towards the left side of the car. Yeah right Mr Land Rover, not when they've been there for over 20 years. I suspect using a metal paint scraper and a hammer you might be able to move them but I failed with a plastic card (although I did use a Nectar card and not a credit card so maybe that had something to do with it) and the windscreen fitted failed with his special trim clip removing tool (which looked like a credit card with a handle on it). Between me and the windscreen fitter we managed to slide the trim sideways out of the clips but in doing so, some of them broke. When it came to putting it back there was about 3 that were beyond being reused so we spaced the remainder out evenly, fitted them to the car then pushed the trim downwards so it clicked back into the clips. All fine and back together.
Except that at speeds over 75 mph, there was this pretty horrendous wind noise from the top of the windscreen. Decided to get some new clips and do it again. For some reason I had it in my mind that there should be 11 in total, so I bought 15 (https://www.lrdirect.com/DCE10038L-Clip/). They arrived the other day and came in 3 packs. Genuine Rover parts in packs of 5. Got stuck in today, off with the A pillar trims, slide the top trim towards the left side of the car and the clips all came out, albeit not all of them in one piece. Fit the new clips to the studs on the body and realised there aren't 11 but 8 of them. Push the trim downwards one clip at a time and a nice healthy click was heard as it snapped into place. A Pillar trims back on and took it for a quick blast, no wind noise even up to 85 mph, job done.
But if anyone needs any replacement clips, I've got 7 brand new, genuine Rover ones, going spare. That means you only need to be able to get you trim out without breaking 1 of the original ones......
Completed my replacement of the water pump and the head gaskets. While I was there I also did an SAI delete.
The vehicle started up w/o issue and after a week the engine has smoothed out nicely. I have a small but steady coolant leak from one of the small return lines just left of pistons 2 and 4. I'm going to wait and do it when I replace the heater core o-rings.
fitted new wipers.
Damnit - snapped another caliper slide bolt, this time it was brand new :/
I set the torque wrench to 30NM and PING. To make it even more annoying, the recycling went on Monday so I didn't have one of the old ones to use as a spare so I'm waiting for another new one to arrive from Island.
I'm sure this must be my fault in some way, probably because I put (a tiny) bit of copper anti seize on the thread. Or I shat on God's lap in a previous life.
charged mine up again as left the radio on silly me
getting old girl prepared for a new fuel injection pump to be fitted so be looking up how to set it up to the engine
Morat wrote:
Damnit - snapped another caliper slide bolt, this time it was brand new :/
I set the torque wrench to 30NM and PING.
Are you sure your torque wrench is accurate? 30 NM is only 22 ft/lbs so not much above finger tight? I must admit I don't use a torque wrench on them, I just do them up finger tight then nip them up with a ring spanner. Mind you, my torque wrench doesn't go down that low, it starts at 30 ft/lb.
Hard to say.. it's new if that matters.
I got a pair of them to cover the range required when I replaced the UJs on the front axle of my jeep. That was IIRC 220lb/ft for the axle nuts, down to 12 lb/ft for the caliper bolts.
I'll just give them the old "tight and a bit" with a 3/8" ratchet and call it good next time.
I've tightened mine with a spanner and a little tap with the hammer, never sheared one ;)
a twenty minute job is only one broken bolt away from becoming a 3 day job:😂
But if anyone needs any replacement clips, I've got 7 brand new, genuine Rover ones, going spare.
Will keep this in mind when I tackle this job as well, mine has always been noisy above 75mph and it has a small gap on the right side. Being a non-original replacement, I suspect poor refitting.