New windscreen and top moulding, new wiper blades, newly painted s/h bonnet following the little disaster at Xmas (thanks mad-as), new bonnet lettering, replaced the fuel tank purge valve with a known good one, swapped out a set of after market O2 sensors for a known good pair of Sagem ones, tracked down a minor rain leak in the back (still after sitting out in a 6” deluge, it is allowed to leak a little). That was pretty much it for the day.

The brakes are now on. It stops straight, no wibbling. Hurrah!
I'll do the break-in in 200 miles time (EBC specify a very pedantic routine).

I probably missed the click on the torque wrench when I snapped the bolts, but this time I just tightened them down and gave them a tweak.

Post cylinder head job I had a coolant leak at the T that sits near cylinder 2. Well I finally looked at it and found the 3 hose clamps there were just tight enough to keep from moving around but otherwise doing nothing. It's been two days with no leaks and a steady coolant level in the reservoir.

Fitted Lockheed rotors n pads all round on mates 4.6 ---- so now I owe no favours anymore we even again till end of June when he resprays disco 1 🤗

Finally I had some time to play ...
... first I wanted to remove the LPG tank as it has "expired" (so says the law) and need to be replaced. Plus I can clean the underside and see why is "damp" there (which I don't like), plus I stupidly dropped couple days ago a M6 tap there (another story), and I can also put the new tank and don't bother that area anymore. The tank is empty, so I can proceed.
I managed to remove the nuts holding the tank (rusted underneath), but to my dismay the valve is external and mounted towards the rear seats, which means to remove it, I need to drop the exhaust. While that is also something in the works, in the small garage where I am working that would be stupidly difficult. Will have to wait until I move the RR out, so that was the end of that activity.
... so then comes moving on to understand why the seats' backrests were not engaging, which I resolved and illustrated on my other topic. I also fixed the seats (finally!) and wonder why oh why Land Rover never bothered to protect the underside so these crappy bolts will not rust perennially ... anyway. Invigorated by this progress, I moved further.
... moving further I moved the car out of the garage, to finally pass the darn 12V for the aux battery in the rear (you might remember I mentioned this elsewhere). Moving indeed, but the garage door was not fully open and while the roof was somehow for paint, as the rest of the car, now def it is. Bugger. Anyway, I passed the cable as we discussed in Sloth's topic and now I wait to close the rear trunk panels and trim and see what will look lilke.
... and with that I moved on to the rear again, namely rear leftside (driver side for us normal people). Fitted the two bosses I had my guy made on the lathe, and drill through the small side-carpets and pass the bolts. This is to replicate "DIY" the "Load Retention System" accessory, STC8530, which is either unavailable or exhorbitantly priced. Left side first to make, since after it came the time to position the rest of the trim and works ...
... which were to position the subwoofer to see if the amp would fit - I will run the original sub through a Blaupunkt GTA270, directly from the source, and not from the HK system, although will use its powered line to the rear.
In between positioning the sub and the cables, the amp, the trim, etc. I think I put the thing on and off at least five times ... but it seems not only to work, also it fits in the slot/cradle where the CD changer was, great result.
So the last job was to cut couple slots for some luggage area additional lights - will reuse the central cubby ones, I have a couple spare, and that was a day, considering I had also two hours babysitting in the meantime, and moved three times between home and the garage ferrying around stuff I'd forgot.
Not bad. Hope I will get it in shape and running by 2029 at this pace, but hey, it was a start!
I had not touch it since a while ... can't wait to get it going again!

Will post pictures as well :-)

A simple one, new lettering on the bonnet. Gloss black lettering on Beluga. Lettering from Powerful UK. I have used their kits before and they are good quality.

not done nothing with mine today had my head buried in RAVE on the laptop looking at FIP set up and how to remove it

Did front steering hubs on discovery 1 and noticed P38 easier to do brake rotors ---- same as discovery 2 td5 I think

Yes they are, Disco 2 and P38 share the same axles and brakes.

AHH that's handy to know -- thanks for the information

Except some muppet at Solihull thought it was GREAT idea to swap the transfer so the axles are the "other" way around ...

Axles are different and if memory serves the Hats on the discs are slightly deeper on the D2.

Changed the coolant. The stuff that came out was nice and clean, so that was pleasing.

Refilled and, so far, it's stayed there.

leolito wrote:

Except some muppet at Solihull thought it was GREAT idea to swap the transfer so the axles are the "other" way around ...

I know the Classic and D1 had the propshafts running down the RH side of the car rather than the left as on a P38 but I'd always assumed they'd swapped it over on the D2 and used the same bits. The hubs and driveshafts are the same design (but different part numbers it turns out) rather than the exposed swivel joint and the wheels changed over to the same PCD as the P38 at the same time. Brake callipers are the same too but the D2 gets vented discs on the front that we don't. Considering the V8 uses the same engine and gearbox as the P38 I'd always assumed the D2 was the budget P38 the same as the D1 was a Classic underneath.

In fact thinking about it, there were some pretty odd decisions made by LR in the past. The Classic got a completely new wiring loom and interior when the soft dash came out for the '94 model year, yet the P38 was announced later the same year so why bother upgrading the Classic? If they'd upgraded and used parts that were destined for the P38 that might make a bit of sense but they were completely different again.

Gilbertd wrote:

Today I refitted my windscreen top trim. When I had the screen replaced a few weeks ago, I checked RAVE to see how to remove it. The instructions say to slide a credit card between the trim and the roof and push the clips towards the left side of the car. Yeah right Mr Land Rover, not when they've been there for over 20 years. I suspect using a metal paint scraper and a hammer you might be able to move them but I failed with a plastic card

Except that at speeds over 75 mph, there was this pretty horrendous wind noise from the top of the windscreen. Decided to get some new clips and do it again.

I must have been lucky getting my clips to shift, but I think I used a plastic trim removal tool and a gentle 'tap' with a hammer. Like you though, of the 8 that came out about three or four remained intact, but even they are really fragile.

But what I wanted to ask about was the 'noise above 75mph'. It looks to me as if my trim piece had some sort of adhesive strip/thin foam on the leading edge - but I can't see how that works when the trim needs to be slid into place? Anything sticky would surely bind to the glass and make sliding the trim over a lot more awkward?

Am I over-thinking this, and have you got a silent fitment without the sticky strip?

I suspect the sticky strip was put there by someone to stop the noise, there was nothing on mine although the leading edge does seem to be more flexible. The trim isn't slid into place though. The trim is put into place and the clips slid to one side to lock them on the pins or, if you do it how I did, the clips are slid onto the pins and the trim then pushed downwards so it clicks onto the clips. The clips will then pull it in to contact the screen.

Thanks Gilbert - that makes sense. I have new clips to hand for when I get to that stage so hopefully they'll be robust enough to do the job properly.

To be fair a D2 ES Premium is a far cry more comfortable and better equipped than the equivalent P38.

ACE and Rear SLS for a start makes it a very nice drive...

Only downside I suppose is you don't get the 4.6 V8 in the Uk, probably because if they offered the TD5 and both V8 variants nobody would of bought the P38 LOL