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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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Took my son to his teams Lacrosse tournament in New Jersey. While sitting in the P38 between games he asks me why the red oil light is on. I look at dash and it’s not on. Thinking he’s looking at the TC light that was on, I’d just turned vehicle on to get some AC air as it was 38C outside, I told him that it would go out when we drove off and that the light was orange. He says it’s the red light and it’s an oil can. I look again and LO and behold the oil light is flashing every few seconds. I turn vehicle off and hop out to check oil level. Stick measure ZERO, ZILCH, NADA, NOTHING, EMPTY, FUCK ALL! Christ I think as I drop to my knees expecting to see and a Exxon Valdez slick. Underneath is dry as a bone, oil sump plug surrounds are dry, rocker cover joints dry…. I clean dip stick and put it in again. Nothing. I ask my son to google nearest petrol station…. It’s 1.5 miles. Do I risk it? We are 95 miles from home…. Do I drive 1.5 miles on what could be a dry oil sump…..
I flag down the first car passing the parking area. Explain the situation to him and he says he has to see this….. ( don’t know if he thought I was trying to hustle him or if he wanted to see what a dry oil dip stick looked like). After seeing it he goes to his car and hands me a quart of oil….. I thank him and start putting it in engine…. He comes back and gives me a second… no payment just a thanks is all he would accept.
My son and I have now time to go to petrol station where I buy 4 quarts of oil. Without thinking, I add the 4 quarts and drive back to the tournament. After his last game I go back and decide to check oil level….. BOLLOX….I’d overfilled it by about 2 inches on dip stick!! How could I be so daft? Knowing that the capacity of oil sump is 7 quarts +/- and having assumed that the oil dip stick went to the bottom of the oil sump I went and added 6 quarts to the engine…. Now I figured I just have 9 quarts in the sump. I needed to drain it…… I drove to Auto parts store and bought an oil bucket for collecting oil during an oil change and went to hot engine and removed the oil filter then drained it, installed the filter, cranked engine and repeated 10 times until I got about 2 quarts of oil from engine and dip stick show a few mm over MAX……
Lesson learned….. the oil dip stick does not measure oil level from the bottom of oil sump…..
Suppose I also have to figure out where 4 quarts of oil went since I serviced the engine 4356 miles ago….

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A US quart is 0.95 litres and the whole system holds 6.6 litres (7 US quarts) from dry or 5.8 litres (6 quarts) after a drain and refill. Difference between low and high on the dipstick is 1 litre so you can work out that if it isn't reaching the oil level, you a couple of litres short. The fact that it was running without sounding like a bag of nails with the oil light on permanently, means you probably already had 2 or 3 litres in there. The first 2 you put in would have been enough to get it up to the minimum mark anyway without the additional 4!!

Now you need to work out who stole your oil......

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I thought about giving the TPS and IACV a freshen up. Replacements are very expensive for a GEMS, but I was lucky enough to pick up a NOS plenum for peanuts, with all the kit on it, ready to fit. Rather than fit it whole, I took the two sensors off and replaced them on mine, gave theMAF a good dose of cleaner, and reset the adaptives. It might be my imagination of course, but she does seem to be running sweeter and a little more go.

I should also say that the old IACV had worn on one side as well, no longer the perfect cone.

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Finished clearing all the cardboard boxes out the car that made it look more like a parts shop and a dumping ground. Changed the HT leads to new ones as i couldn't tell how old the ones on it are.

Got to change the plugs but not keen with me being so heavy handed and it being an aluminum threads if I'm guessing right. Also need to buy some new plugs as well. So any recommendations for that would be helpful and might nudge me on to do it

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'95 will be GEMS so NGK BPR6ES plugs. Yes, they are steel into aluminium so can be tight if they've been in there for a long time. I always smear the threads with Graphite Grease when I put new ones in although others use Copper Grease. Don't suppose it makes much difference but anything to prevent them seizing in has to be worthwhile.

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Those spark plugs have 7822 in brackets aswell. Is that also correct for the P38

Thanks again

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Yes, 7822 is the NGK part number.

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JMCLuimni wrote:

Suppose I also have to figure out where 4 quarts of oil went since I serviced the engine 4356 miles ago….

You haven't checked the oil in about two thirds of the service interval?

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Gilbertd wrote:

Yes, 7822 is the NGK part number.
Super. Best get them ordered then

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Super will get them ordered

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@Gordonjcp-adm…. I change the oil in my vehicles every 5000 miles religiously. Ive never once had reason to check the levels in between. When changing the oil I will check the levels prior to draining and they have never ever been below the Full line….. I suppose, moving forward, I will be checking oil levels every 1000 miles or so. Lesson learned….
Still doesn’t explain where 4 quarts went to.

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JMCLuimni wrote:

@Gordonjcp-adm…. I change the oil in my vehicles every 5000 miles religiously. Ive never once had reason to check the levels in between.

I would never run any 20-year-old vehicle without checking the oil at least once a week, and certainly before any long journey (which is every time I put the keys in, these days...)

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I check fluid levels every Saturday ---- few minutes can save on big bills

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Yesterday complete strip down on front hub and rebuild outside in the lovely weather and today did other side and fitted braided hoses too ---- tomorrow put 300tdi engine back into disco after full rebuild so should last my lifetime

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Changed the Oil in mine..

10w40 Comma XS and a Mann w930/20 filter.

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Found out why the inside of the glovebox was cooler than the rest of the car. Ducting to the passenger side vent, the one on the end of the dash, has a sliding joint in it which had slid so the air that should have been going to the vent was filling the underside of the dashboard.....

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Today I got very hot and sweaty. One minor problem that can occur on a V8 with top hat liners and ARP stud kit, is head gasket leaks. Not the usual sort of head gasket leak but oil and/or coolant leaks. Engine runs fine but it can leak from the block to head joint. The fire rings are firmly clamped between the top of the liners and the heads but the rest of the gasket isn't and with the 65 ft/lb torque for the studs, it will eventually start to leak. Not a huge leak, not enough to drop on the floor but enough to put spots on my back bumper and tailgate. Bear in mind that my engine was bolted together 158,000 miles ago so it isn't something likely to happen at any moment. The LH head was leaking coolant at the rear coolant passage at a rate of about half a litre every 500 miles but it was dripping onto the front propshaft UJ and being thrown around everywhere. The RH head was leaking oil (half a litre every 2-3000 miles) which was dripping onto the starter motor. Lots of current, potential of sparks and a covering of oil could have meant it fired up in a different way to how I would like.

So, I started it last night when it was a bit cooler and got it down to the heads in about 3 hours. Continued this morning and initially It was quite pleasant but by mid morning it was getting a bit warm. I was working outside with the nose of the car facing West so I had the sun on my back a lot of the time. I turned the ignition on at one point (with the fuel pump relay pulled as the fuel pipes were disconnected) and the HEVAC said the external temperature was 32 degrees C. My AC testing thermometer sitting on the fusebox lid didn't agree and was reading 48.3C and it felt like it! Anyway, heads came off, cleaned them up, cleaned up the top of the block and, despite having to keep going into the house for another pint of water to offset the amount I was losing in sweat, had it all bolted back together and fired up by around 5pm. Had I thought about it I could have left it for a few hours so I would have been finishing it off this evening when it was cooler but I had already arranged to go out at around 6pm so had it finished, tools all put away and into the shower by 5:15. Shouldn't need to touch the engine for another 150,000 or so now.

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I seem to recall you doing the HG's a few pages ago for an engine Oil leak?

Anyway great work, the heat would of immobilized me to be fair.

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Not on mine, that was on another one.

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Cleared out load area of tools / outboard engine parts etc so roof liner swap tomorrow 👍