Finished clearing all the cardboard boxes out the car that made it look more like a parts shop and a dumping ground. Changed the HT leads to new ones as i couldn't tell how old the ones on it are.

Got to change the plugs but not keen with me being so heavy handed and it being an aluminum threads if I'm guessing right. Also need to buy some new plugs as well. So any recommendations for that would be helpful and might nudge me on to do it

'95 will be GEMS so NGK BPR6ES plugs. Yes, they are steel into aluminium so can be tight if they've been in there for a long time. I always smear the threads with Graphite Grease when I put new ones in although others use Copper Grease. Don't suppose it makes much difference but anything to prevent them seizing in has to be worthwhile.

Those spark plugs have 7822 in brackets aswell. Is that also correct for the P38

Thanks again

Yes, 7822 is the NGK part number.

JMCLuimni wrote:

Suppose I also have to figure out where 4 quarts of oil went since I serviced the engine 4356 miles ago….

You haven't checked the oil in about two thirds of the service interval?

Gilbertd wrote:

Yes, 7822 is the NGK part number.
Super. Best get them ordered then

Super will get them ordered

@Gordonjcp-adm…. I change the oil in my vehicles every 5000 miles religiously. Ive never once had reason to check the levels in between. When changing the oil I will check the levels prior to draining and they have never ever been below the Full line….. I suppose, moving forward, I will be checking oil levels every 1000 miles or so. Lesson learned….
Still doesn’t explain where 4 quarts went to.

JMCLuimni wrote:

@Gordonjcp-adm…. I change the oil in my vehicles every 5000 miles religiously. Ive never once had reason to check the levels in between.

I would never run any 20-year-old vehicle without checking the oil at least once a week, and certainly before any long journey (which is every time I put the keys in, these days...)

I check fluid levels every Saturday ---- few minutes can save on big bills

Yesterday complete strip down on front hub and rebuild outside in the lovely weather and today did other side and fitted braided hoses too ---- tomorrow put 300tdi engine back into disco after full rebuild so should last my lifetime

Changed the Oil in mine..

10w40 Comma XS and a Mann w930/20 filter.

Found out why the inside of the glovebox was cooler than the rest of the car. Ducting to the passenger side vent, the one on the end of the dash, has a sliding joint in it which had slid so the air that should have been going to the vent was filling the underside of the dashboard.....

Today I got very hot and sweaty. One minor problem that can occur on a V8 with top hat liners and ARP stud kit, is head gasket leaks. Not the usual sort of head gasket leak but oil and/or coolant leaks. Engine runs fine but it can leak from the block to head joint. The fire rings are firmly clamped between the top of the liners and the heads but the rest of the gasket isn't and with the 65 ft/lb torque for the studs, it will eventually start to leak. Not a huge leak, not enough to drop on the floor but enough to put spots on my back bumper and tailgate. Bear in mind that my engine was bolted together 158,000 miles ago so it isn't something likely to happen at any moment. The LH head was leaking coolant at the rear coolant passage at a rate of about half a litre every 500 miles but it was dripping onto the front propshaft UJ and being thrown around everywhere. The RH head was leaking oil (half a litre every 2-3000 miles) which was dripping onto the starter motor. Lots of current, potential of sparks and a covering of oil could have meant it fired up in a different way to how I would like.

So, I started it last night when it was a bit cooler and got it down to the heads in about 3 hours. Continued this morning and initially It was quite pleasant but by mid morning it was getting a bit warm. I was working outside with the nose of the car facing West so I had the sun on my back a lot of the time. I turned the ignition on at one point (with the fuel pump relay pulled as the fuel pipes were disconnected) and the HEVAC said the external temperature was 32 degrees C. My AC testing thermometer sitting on the fusebox lid didn't agree and was reading 48.3C and it felt like it! Anyway, heads came off, cleaned them up, cleaned up the top of the block and, despite having to keep going into the house for another pint of water to offset the amount I was losing in sweat, had it all bolted back together and fired up by around 5pm. Had I thought about it I could have left it for a few hours so I would have been finishing it off this evening when it was cooler but I had already arranged to go out at around 6pm so had it finished, tools all put away and into the shower by 5:15. Shouldn't need to touch the engine for another 150,000 or so now.

I seem to recall you doing the HG's a few pages ago for an engine Oil leak?

Anyway great work, the heat would of immobilized me to be fair.

Not on mine, that was on another one.

Cleared out load area of tools / outboard engine parts etc so roof liner swap tomorrow 👍

…. And the best part about ARP studs, no need to buy a new set of head bolts…..

Removed& repaired seals on sunroof & change glass also fitted new roof liner

Installed exhaust system, manifold back, in 4.6. Easy enough project. Hadn’t realized how loud the old thing was getting until I drove it with new pipes.
Atlantic British for $449.