Aloha!
Thanks for all the great feedback!
I am going back for the EAS parts for the Borrego, and will see if I can find a mobile glass man near the breakers to remove it. I have watched several done, and it is indeed a learned skill, so based upon where I am on the curve.....
That would be: on the bottom looking straight up......
I will pay someone to attempt removal.
No worries on the "Silicone".....I have spent lot's of time in New Zealand and Oz, where any kind of ooozy sticky stuff inna tube is "Silicone"....I was confused at first as well.
Having been on and around boats all of my adult life, I know of some truly nasty PU adhesives......We use one in particular that must be heated to like 120deg (F) before application, but it goes
off like a shot! Gotta be sure the parts are where you really want them.
Looks like an new non heated windscreen is about 350 bucks and the heated version is like $800- $1200
Hmmmmm....Thinking about it more, I find the gold wires annoying at some sun angles, so may just get a non heated version fitted.
It's not like I live in the frozen North.
Shoot! I will use the Govt Covid-19 hand out $$ I got for it! Perfect!!
Ahhhh The pleasures of a Hoon on the beach in Tazzie! Great POV video.
We did the same drive at a Champ Meet 10 years ago. Great fun, and the Champ was superb riding!
We are looking forward to next year which will bring another wave of Champs to Tazzie!
We have done Taz every 5th year and this will be our 5th visit as a group.
I will be in the 85 Classic next time, as I have passed my Aussie Champ to a keen bloke in Vic.
We will have to do same beach run in it, for the sake of comparison!
Cheers!
Aloha Gents,
Took a spin to the breakers today ("Essential" industry, thus open!) There is a 2001 beautiful dark green, EAS still holding air! and
a new headliner. I found a 4 inch blow out in the main Rad hose, so I think we know why it is at the knackers yard. Sad!
The owner obviously took good care of it other than the hoses......
I will probably return to grab all of the EAS stuff to put back under the Borrego.
Among the bits I scored another DSP amp (2 good spares now!) and all of the temp sensors for the AC
3 working blend motors.........Gotta get rid of the "chequebook!" on the HVAC But that's not what I need to know.
My windscreen has a slowly creeping crack that was just under the rear view mirror mount when I bought Bolt, and has now crept
down about 6 inches.....Also a stone chip on the passengers side, about 50% of the wires
do not heat.... I think it will be time to replace it soon.
The 2001 at the breakers has an pristine windscreen that can be had for $40 bucks.....I just need to remove it intact.
I have seen wire saws in use in the past, but have never tried them out.
I am assuming it is simply glued in with some really good snot?
Any clips or fastenings I should have in hand before starting?
Any words of wisdom? advice? If I break it trying to remove it, I will not be charged......What could possibly go wrong?
I will probably enlist the help of a proper glass fitter to re install it......Maybe......
Cheers!
Tom
25 watts is a serious "Trickle" charger.....
3-5 watts from a "Self regulating" (Read: 15voc) panel is usually adequate
I have had good luck with something like this:
Sticks on the inside of the windscreen, and has plugs and leads for hooking to an always hot terminal.
Yep! I suspected he would take the bait and be lured onto the dark side!
I am sure Richard / Gilbert will be a benevolent overlord.........
"Time for the fun to start......" ........I distinctly detect an "Bwahhhh Ha Ha Ha Ha......." after that statement!
Oh, for the record, (most) Yanks do indeed understand Irony......In this case though, it is the Canuks Eh'?!
Now, let's have a contest to see who can get themselves banned for life by their freshly minted Mod! FUN!!!
Once we have been banned, perhaps we too can be a mod and get the BIG BUCKS!.......
Ahoy!
Thank you so much for that!
I was just contemplating what will happen when we head off shore for a few months and leave the Rangie under it's cover. With battery disconnected, I am not worried about the 5%/mo self discharge, as it is a big group 31 battery.
Will go and perform this procedure on the Borrego right now to try it out, as it is currently parked in the shed
awaiting a new owner. (Anyone need a nice Borrego?)
No fear of anything going amiss (!?) as it has good micros, an unlocked Becm, and working fob (Sadly, only 1)
On another note, if, as in Oz, the EKA is set to off, and code shows on nano as 0000, do you simply do the
"Prelude to EKA" with the turns from lock to unlock when it asks for it?....Just wondering.....
Cheers!
Tom
Aloha Dave,
I have used 2 sets of these on both my 02s:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CC3R8I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The hole patterns match and they sound pretty good as well. A surprise for the price.
No holes on the back for the Sub amp to mount to (if you have the Premium system), but easy to work around that issue.
Cheers,
Tom
To me it sounds just like something is rubbing on something.
That would explain why only under load as things are shifting around at that time due to the torque.
Possibly even a loose fastener which is allowing the two joined parts to rub just that bit.
Try the hose pipe stethoscope for sure, but include mounts and both ends of anything that moves with the engine and attaches to the frame.
As it is a low intensity high frequency sound, it would be a small part vibrating and rubbing.
It could even be in the bay but not on the engine itself, just an sympathetic harmonic vibration.
Put the same 75 w 140 full synthetic in the front diff. Interesting stuff it is crystal clear, and flows nicely when cold.
Checked all fluids, 28 psi in the fronts, 38 in the rears, ready for the trip up North at zero dark thirty tomorrow morning.....
So, I know this has been knocked around a bunch, but for my 16 in Yokohama's what do youse guys run for air pressure?
I have been running 38 and 38.............
I am in the midst of doing diffs, T-case, and engine services.
I noticed ~after, of course~ that I was sold 75-140 full syn gear oil, and manual calls for 75-90........
155k miles on the beastie, will there be any issue with the wider viscosity range gear oil?
Did a search, and found no answers......(Did not even bother trying on the dark side!)
Cheers!
Tom
As part of prep for next weeks 1500mi trip.
Doing all fluids on Bolt today. (except trans)
Hope I don't find as much metallic silt!
Going to put some strong magnets on all 4 plugs just because........
Thanks, Rob.
I lean towards Bilsteins, however as I do not get to drive the P-38 like I stole it, possibly Monroes will be just fine.
Cheaper too!
Sorry to hear that your traffic laws are getting even more draconian!
I have loosely followed the slow degradation of the driving conditions over there via Clarkson's rants on Top Gear over the years....
Not quite that bad here, in fact, if you do less than 80mph on most freeways, you are road kill!.
That's why when I want to go have a good solid off road hooning session, I go down to Oz and break out the trusty '85
Virtually no rules or regs once you leave the sealed roads! How cool is that??
On a recent 20,000km trip round Oz, about 50% off sealed roads, we saw exactly 3 cops, all parked in towns......Beaut!
I would love to get hold of a P-38 down there and do the trip again clockwise this time.....Just as a comparison.
I have here in the shed, 2 virtually identical 02s
Bolt is EAS, and the Borrego has springs Old Man Emu, if i recall (NO I did not castrate it, it came that way)
Having an opportunity to drive them under identical conditions back to back, which I have done, I will have
to say that at speeds 35mph and below, the springs are bloody awful. I would say about 25% more harsh.
Small bumps really hit hard.
At highway speed, they are about the same as long as you do not hit any bad pavement.................
On the LA Freeways, in the inside lane at 85-90 mph, if you hit a bump, and there are lots!
and you happen to be on any kind of curve, you MUST have a death grip on the wheel and be wide awake!
The front end will tend to try to jump sideways taking the rest of the car with it.
It is not really scary as such, just unnerving. Oh, Borrego has good shocks all round......
On smooth 85 mph sweeping turns, there is noticeable body lean and sway since, as Gilbert mentioned, it sits too high.
With EAS, it feels so much more planted. I hate having to swerve to avoid something in the road in the Borrego,
Bolt is much more stable on EAS. It just feels like you are much further from the edge stability wise.
I really do not need to sing the praises of a P-38 on EAS, as Bolt is. Let's just say, Bolt is the go to daily driver for local and long distance. It is just so much safer than the Borrego on springs.
In fact, we are heading off next week to the snow country 1500mi R/T.
I am selling the Borrego, and may or may not put the EAS back.
Car is so perfect otherwise, it is a shame it is on coils.
I had another enthusiast come round and try both as he was thinking about springs. He kept his EAS.
Over the years, I have used Monroes and Bilsteins.....I have liked both. Boge, I have no issues with
I have Bilsteins on the 85 and it has been truly off road rallied in the Outback.
Good performance in the worst conditions on the planet! (I tend to drive it like I stole it)
Any particular models of either that are liked or despised by anyone?
I have a young niece who thinks it's fun to make the lights flash on keyfob remotes.......
Took my second visit to my brothers to work out what was happening. Sticky fingerprints on the fob were the giveaway.
I have stopped leaving the fob on his counter......
Hey Morat, I am still chuckling about the pure evil of de syncing your deadbeat flatmates car! Well Done indeed!
Anyone tested just how many presses you do get? I may have to go try this...WCPGW?
Leaving a fob where your flatmates can get it is about as dumb as leaving your 35mm camera out.........
You pick it up and notice there are a lot fewer shots left on the roll!
Tip: Always pick up your own photos from the processor..... I got some very "creative" photos......
Come to think of it, both are similar to the old practice of leaving a bunch of disposable film cameras on the table at a wedding reception so the guests can take their own photos for you...........Ohhhhhh!!! The Horror!
But I digress.......
Aloha,
Looking for some consensus on new shockers for Bolt.
I finally traced a strange thumping noise to LF and RR shocks having worn bushes.
As they are probably original, and I have 155k on it now, I may as well replace all 4.
I have Arnott Gen IIs on it, so no extra height.
What do we like these days for shocks?
Cheers.
Tom
The CPS is a sneaky little bugger. one second it's good, the next, it's not. Sometimes they will warn ya a bit first....
Fuel pressure is a schrader valve on the rail, so just use a tire pressure gauge.
These beasts do not usually just stop dead unless the CPS or the inertia switch fail, and I do not recall ever reading about the inertia switch suddenly failing.....Have you checked that? Fuel pressure, if present, will also rule that out.
Obviously, fuel supply is also a fuse and a relay. Easy to check, just swap relay with another of the same colour.
Speaking of relays, the other thing that will cause a sudden change of state from well running car to massive inert sculpture, is a bad under-bonnet fuse box. Give it a good look, and a sniff test...looking for burnt bits and smelling like toasted electrics. Pull each relay and look underneath for blackened plastic. The Fusebox is a wear item, and usually need replacing at about 15 years........There are several versions, and they are not interchangeable, so if you find this is the issue, compare the part numbers.
Battery 16v without it running? (Seems I have heard this is a Nano glitch, but that's high)
Could be a failed Crank position sensor.
Now that I think about it, I am not sure if this can be read on a Nano, I have never looked?
Check the wires and plug on the little bugger first.
These can just quit, but with the errors you have logged, it may have spluttered a bit before dying.
The CPS is the only spare part I carry with me everywhere. No workarounds.
Dumb question, with you being in the Philippines, but was it hot? You can possibly test this part by getting
it cold. Freeze spray, dry ice, or just plain ice ~May~ get it to work for a few minutes. This is not
a totally conclusive test however as you will get no result if it has finally died and failed open.
Thanks for the tips!
I have a factory rack for each of mine, however, a mate, who is still in Hawaii wants something a
bit beefier than factory, so I am looking for parts for him as well.
Hoping that something for him will show up at a local wrecking yard......
Keep warm!
Cheers,
Tom
Yakima racks were priced in Hawaii, where everything co$t$ a bunch more.
-22??! I have a theory about folks that live where it gets that cold.......
Gotta be in a witness protection program of some sort, otherwise......Why would you do such a thing voluntarily?
(This from someone who has lived the better part of their years in Hawaii and is now "suffering" in 10C weather. Yea, I'm a wimp!)