Slip rings appear to be available - hopefully of decent quality though when i get round to pulling it off to sort it will find out I guess.
Cheers Richard. thats the news I was hoping for as its at least fixable with the parts available. Never used to be able to find anywhere selling the brushes and bits but they seem available for these on Ebay very easily.
Not sure how close this will be, but this may help (Its a Disco in this case, but it would seem the main difference between the 150 amp and the smaller units is that the bracket for the 150 is different, so you can't fit a 150 in place of a smaller one without also swapping the bracket as well).
https://landroverforums.com/forum/discovery-ii-18/how-disco-ii-alternator-disassembly-51103/
Chris - When you say its normally the brushes that go, what sort of symptoms does that give? I get an initial failure to get charging voltage out of mine, which goes within around 1 mile of driving upto 14v (it typically sits around 11v until that point).
There were lots here too, happy new year to all on here.
Definitely, if you can get it out and refitted. I've discovered why the carpet in the Disco has been wet on the drivers side is down to a hole in the channel next to the windscreen. Too close to the screen to weld it without taking the screen out first, and if the screen is coming out it will probabbly need replacing anyway as its already got a stone chip, several scratches and has started to delaminate in the same corner as the recently discovered hole. So for the minute the hole has been filled with some windscreen sealant to try and stop further water coming in that way.
Donald
Unfortunately, yours shows a Tinted screen, but with both heated and unheated as options. So thats no help at all this time. Usually it will tie it down to a specific part number. Yours is showing either CMB000010 (unheated) or CMB000020 (Heated)
Rimmers show the unheated as £518.81 and heated as £745.85 for the genuine LR part. I'd suggest speaking to someone from the fitters to get the price on whatever your going for (In most cases these are pattern screens not original at least the ones I've had have not been, so there may be a significent difference in price overall).
Microcat with the VIN for your vehicle should show the correct screen type. Can have a look if you want to PM me your vin across and don't have Microcat. Otherwise best best is either ask your windscreen repair place as they should be able to tell you, or have a look for the wiring and see if it comes on when you press the switch. You might be able to have a heated screen fitted if you speak to them anyway if you decide to go that way.
Can't say conclusively that its the case, but the Disco I've got has extra plugs for bits it doesn't have fitted (Sunroof controls have the wiring there even with manual sunroof fitted, just no switches). Its possible someone fitted the switch in place, though I can't see a good reason for doing so if it didn't have a heated screen in the first place, More likely someone has gone with a cheaper screen for some reason (not covered by their insurance being the likely reason I can think of)
I've had a windscreen replaced (not on a p38) by Autoglass, and they seemed to know what they were doing. Unfortunately its only lasted just over a year before falling victim to another flying stone on the m4 and needs replacing again (both incidents down to stones thrown up from vehicles in front whilst doing motorway speeds so neither screen really had a chance)
The topics vs posts could be explained where either spam has been posted to an existing thread, or where a user has deleted their own post after replying. Its still not a lot of spam overall though, not even 1 a day if you counted all the deleted posts there.
The other thing to bear in mind with the flashlube setup, is that the plumbing has to get the fluid to all the cylinders. If its using a spider or similar to do that, provided all the legs of the spider provide the lube you should be ok. Guess you will find out soon enough once its delivered.
Of course, it might be something easy to fix and not VSR at all.
29940 currently (will be 29941 with this post)
You can see it if you check the main forum page - its at the bottom
https://rangerovers.pub/
Gilbertd wrote:
You can smell the difference in the exhaust between running petrol and LPG, so if you've just arrived somewhere while running on gas, anyone that is familiar would notice it.
Yeah I will give you that, though its more a case that you can smell its running on petrol whereas you don't really smell anything much on gas I've found, just notice a bit more steam at times. Maybe I just don't smell it though.
The only review of them on Google isn't exactly positive. Wouldn't expect to smell gas on a multipoint as it only starts supplying gas once it's running, unlike a single point. PC38 does mention injectors so must be a multi point injection of some type. And it is leaking, even a small leak you would smell it.
Does sound like one to avoid for sure.
Gilbertd wrote:
It couldn't get much worse. Christmas has just been cancelled here. I'm in tier 2 but my daughter, who only lives 4 miles away, is in tier 4.
Here we have gone from Tier 2 yesterday to 3 today due to goto 4 at midnight. I could walk from here and be in Tier 2 in 2 1/2 miles.
Merry Christmas all!
You can also choose size on onedrive - default is original size. Probabbly worth also saying, that if you give it a go and find you've mucked it up somehow, you can have another go using the edit function (Green pencil button at the bottom of your post) to correct the error and try again. Or use the preview button first to check it. Easiest to delete your link from the post and start that bit again though rather than trying to correct the error with onedrive links.
Gilbertd wrote:
Like that. What you are doing is linking to the page that has the picture on it and not the picture itself. What I just did with your post was click the links to go to the page the images are on, then right click on the actual picture and select copy image location, then paste that in the pop up box.
The best option to use if your using onedrive is the embed option from the photo, that gives you a link to use, you can just copy that hyperlink straight into the box on this forum for insert picture.
Can you make the how to topic sticky? It seems not to be so currently?
Nice work on the mod @PC38
For anyone using Onedrive to share photos, the right option to use is to open the photo in onedrive, then click the embed option. This will bring up another box, with a code like this
Paste that into the box in point 7 and you should have your photo linked sucessfully. Sensible to put said photo into the public folder first on your onedrive.
That makes more sense now, So the remaining question does the gearbox output shaft stay on the gearbox when your doing it, or is it attached to the transfer case?
Gilbertd wrote:
Didn't get too cold but didn't get it finished so it's still on the ramp with the transfer case on the bench. Old chain must be at least an inch longer than the new one so not surprising it could be made to skip. Front output shaft bearing had slack in it as well as being noisy and rear output shaft oil seal was slowly filling the parking brake drum with ATF. So a good job I bought the seal and bearing kit as well as the chain. Following the instructions in the overhaul manual, having changed the chain, bearings and seals, it came to putting it back together. Would it go together? Would it hell. One thing I couldn't understand was that when putting the interlock spool back in, it says to put it in low ratio even though it had been in high when taken apart. Looking at the way the cogs line up, this actually made sense. But the cover wouldn't go on. We must have taken it on and off at least 6 times trying to work out what was stopping it about 15mm short of going on fully home. Finally twigged it. All the pictures in the manual show the transfer case with no range change motor fitted. As the motor was in high and the mechanism in low, the two didn't line up and was stopping the two halves of the casing going together. Pull the motor off and the casing slotted back in. Then rotate the drive to put it back into high and refit the motor.
At this point, we'd spent so much time with the thing in bits on the bench, we decided to call it a day and finish it off tomorrow. Should be pretty straightforward not having to do battle with bolts that haven't been undone for many years.
Reading between the lines there, does the p38 use ATF in the transfer case? That explains something thats been bugging me (your remark somewhere on here about not replacing the input shaft seal and ending up with ATF over the rear end of the car and having to pull the transfer case off again to sort it) thats been puzzling me somewhat, as I'd expected the ATF to be from the gearbox not the transfer box. I've just had the box off the Disco to sort out it leaking from various points and a faulty switch and whilst its obviously different I couldn't see how the ATF could leak given the seal on the gearbox wasn't touched.
Also thought you getting it done in a day was somewhat hopeful, Mine took a few days working on a 2 post lift to sort it, though some of that was waiting for a new brake drum to turn up after discovering 2 cracks through it.
Didn't notice it before (maybe because it wasn't there), but the bottom of the photos on Devonprint also shows battery megastore's logo in the corners > https://www.batterymegastore.co.uk/
At least you paid on the credit card! Good luck getting it sorted and a good warning for others too.