Good stuff, thats the sort of thing I was hoping to hear. Thanks for the reply.

The one used for the throttle body heater on the V8 is used for the return from the EGR cooler where its fitted to the TD5.

I'm looking for a couple of parts - specifically iyt100000 and NTC5147 or https://www.lrparts.net/ntc5147-clip.html and https://www.lrparts.net/iyt100000-pin-spring.html

The usual suspects don't seem to have these both in stock, but https://www.lrparts.net/ does, I've never used them and just wondered if anyone else had used them before?

Not tried personally, but taking the seat out from the inside and then removing the door card might be a better method. At least if you can find another door card, destroying it from that side might be easier to put right afterwards. Not sure how easy it would be to remove the seat without being able to open the door though. Not sure if you can access the bolts for the strike plate though the door pillar, but I'd doubt it.

At a guess, your shim might be just causing enough pressure on the latch to prevent it unlocking fully somehow, though hard to see how without having it apart. Not exactly like you could remove any pressure from the door pillar either if that was the case.

Greyhound5 wrote:

Thanks for the help guys. Now if anyone can tell me how to get my D2 drivers door jammed latch un-jammed, so I can get into it that would be great. Me thinks that's a question for a different web site though.

I take drives to Abilene KS. every 6 or 8 weeks to pick up Greyhounds to foster. Thats about 3 hours round trip. That will be a much better test.

Depending how its managed to jam itself, you might get more luck trying to undo it with the key once the battery is disconnected. Most likely cause of it being jammed is some sort of superlocking failure.

I had to go through 4 different drivers door locks (mostly ebay "tested and working") ones before I ended up getting annoyed with it and deciding to buy a new one instead (every one of them failed to lock, couple of them had other failures as well, but that one fault was consistant across all of them). The new one worked fine, so clearly every one of the used ones wasn't as well tested as they were supposed to be.

I'd take it your jammed state means it won't unlock?

I've known of it to be referred to more commonly with diesel engined cars than with petrol vehicles, particually those with more sophisticated variable turbos (which is most of them now). Its probabbly more relevent to cars that rarely get used at a decent speed though as well. But its always a bit of fun to see how well it goes too.

The green dye might be more useful if you were trying to locate a leak, though if the sodium silicate did what its supposed to do, you'd have no leak there anymore. Its possibly slightly more useful in other applications in that respect. That said, a pressure tester usually will allow you to locate a water leak used correctly anyway.

Island 4X4 list airtex - https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/water-pump-1994-airtex-stc4378-p-6826.html as well as Meyle or Britpart.

Rimmers seem to list the genuine with a surcharge attached for return of the old one, so I'd guess those are refurbished parts?
https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-STC4378

LRdirect seem to mostly list Britpart (most of the proflow ones look to be Britpart ones when looked into further).

https://www.lrdirect.com/STC4378-Water-Pump-Rr-4.0-4.6-V8-Efi-94-O/?keep_https=yes

Onedrive also works, just find the pic on onedrive (if you have it on the pc rather than browser right click it first and choose view online) then click the embed option and it will give you a code, copy that into the photo link and it should display then.

I've got the same fault on the Focus - a couple of points on the sender have failed, so if the tank is full, it reads empty and a couple of other points cause odd readings as well. But at least it still starts at that regardless.

You really want to avoid running the petrol tank that low on a gas vehicle, running it dry is a good way to finish the petrol pump off if luck isn't on your side.

Well thats easy to find out, create your own test account in another browser or on another device, and then replicate the process switching between the browsers. I'd imagine it says your not allowed to access this forum or not allowed to post as your banned?

I think a lot of it is to try to drive their sites up the search results on Google etc more than to actually just mess up content. That said, some people are just asshats who would mess up a thread for the sake of it as well.

sarfarm wrote:

My local garage have just replaced the steering tie bar and top and bottom ball joints on both sides.Total cost Parts and Labour £300
Which knowing the difficulty of the ball joint replacement is good value,too bloody old to do it myself.

Sounds like you got a very good deal there to me. Good work on the MOT post above too, unfortunately some of the testers about seem to think they know what they are doing when they really don't.

Regarding question 4, I'd also wonder if the HC test is valid - Do you know they replaced the coolant when the skimming was done (not taken it out and put it back in after maybe?). It somewhat ties in to Richard's point about does it pressurise the cooling system really at the same time.

I'd wonder if you could solder a green LED in place of it, though you'd have to drop the voltage to avoid blowing it. You might also have to play around to get the right level of brightness. That price seems to be one of the cheapest around though for the green ones.

Maybe buy another switch to raid the bulbs from instead?

dave3d wrote:

I was running Microcat on my 64 bit Windows 10 pc using VMware running as a virtual XP machine. It worked fine until a recent W10 update disabled it. It said it was incompatible. Rave is fine however. I have all the acrobat .pdf files.

Still works for me - exactly the same setup, running the vm as an XP machine. I know there is a bios setting that can effect the ability to run VMware that can cause issues. Its vmware player I'm using (the free version) but it seems to be fine here with windows 10 20H2 64 bit. I don't run the app in the mode that allows it to hide the rest of the VM, just use it as a second desktop in a window.

It may be worth trying to update vmware to the latest version if you haven't already done so, Hyper V can cause issues with it as well though you don't need both Hyper V and vmware as they both do the same job anyway.

The info in Rave is from the manufacturer and far more detail than you will find elsewhere. Stereo and multimeter should allow you to narrow it down somewhat, if you look at the wiring diagram at the same time you can check each point to see where the problem is.

As far as i know the P38 uses standard connectors for the stereo so they shouldn't need to alter the plugs. That wouldn't rule out them having trapped a wire somehow or having done something odd and would be a good place to look as its been altered. There is usually an illumination feed to the stereo power plug even if it isn't actively used by the head unit fitted.

The ETM shows the same RW wire on pin 2 of that connector for the backlight. I'd guess you don't have 12v on either of them with the lights on?

There is a diagram of the whole circuit for both switches in the ETM, Unless someone else comes back with a common failure point your probabbly looking at tracing that back to see where the 12v feed is being lost. It shows you the various connectors and such in there. Gillbertd has posted a link to the download for Rave previously on here.