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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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When I've been in the passenger side of my mate's Series III you do notice round here other Land Rovers do seem to wave or at least acknowledge you even the odd P38 you see. Not so much the newer ones than the P38 or D2 era except for Defenders though.

Theres nothing suggested in the master change log about a relevent issue with the HEVAC getting left and right confused either.
https://nanocom-diagnostics.com/downloads/download/master-change-log

1.35 is the current one, there is a 1.36 in beta available.

I'd guess the permanent fault is more indicative of it not being an intermittent fault thats been detected (connection is completely broken eg by an unplugged connector or broken wire, rather than bad contact or a faulty clockspring type issue).

I'd note you don't mention any welding required, which lets face it is rare on most cars by the time they are getting towards their 20th birthday, if they even get that far. So you can be thankful for that!

It vanished sometime around May. I thought I'd had a copy of it, but only had a link to the folder it turned out in the end. I did mention it in the thread when i noticed, but noone came back about it.

I know when I had issues on mine (Granted it was a D2 rather than P38 but has a very similar switch and issues) it only had to see the switches change in the wrong sequence to upset it, You could watch it do it with the nano in front of you, two of the swtiches would go across every time, the 3rd would work most of the time and then fail occasionally to do it when it should, then would drop a second or two later. That would be long enough to get a flashing gear display though did keep the led on the stick lit once it would get the expected input the gear display would keep flashing all the same.

If you look at the table with the outputs you mention above, it also shows pins 8 36 and 37 are the outputs from the switch. Might be worth checking those at the ecu or work out which pins they are as they exit the switch and that should prove if the switch is the problem. I'd posted the above before your reply above popped up.

The reverse light according to Rave is controlled by the becm, which will operate it based on the xyz switch outputs. if you don't have access to a Nano or other diagnostics, then you could test the switch directly with a multimeter, though I'd suspect it would be more difficult to do so. Worth noting that there is a bit of adjustment on the actual switch itself (it pivots a bit on the bolts once they are loosened) and it may need a slight adjustment to get it in the right place. Easiest to do with one person watching the dash and moving the stick, whilst the other moves the xyz switch around.

What needed fixing on the BECM though? This fault/issue or something else?

Does sound like your XYZ switch is playing up, if you have access to a nanocom it will show you the various outputs from the switch, Rave will give you details of which combination will show up for each gear, I would guess you have one of the contacts not working as it should do, If its the same as the one on the Disco then if it goes into limp mode D will effectively put it in 3rd gear I think.

You might get some luck trying to take the switch apart and cleaning it with contact cleaner, when I investigated mine one of the spring contacts had gone weak and would work some times but not others. Would randomly either refuse to start, or go into limp mode when trying to drive forwards. The usual mentioned failure is down to the AC drain dripping onto the switch.

I find the same when its cold on the Disco and its been sat for a while (couple of weeks or so). Been told its the oil in one of the boxes or the Diffs likely to be the cause. Feels like a thumping for the first mile or so but soon disappears after that. But not got any further into looking at it. Fine if its been used recently and fine when its warmer too.

I do also notice if its been sat for a week or so, that I have to give it a few seconds after putting it into drive before it will go anywhere at more than a snails pace, like its refilling something in the gearbox almost.

Wouldn't the gearbox lack of display suggest the XYZ as well for the not-starting issue? If it doesn't show N or P I know the Disco won't even crank for obvious reasons, I'd suspect the same on the p38. Thats if its not cranking of course, rather than cranking but failing to start, it isn't clear from the first post which it was doing.

Not a P38, but I've known crank sensors to play up intermittently for a long while before they suddenly fail, The last one I had fail did so after filling the car up, got halfway out of the petrol station and it then would crank but not start. I'd been chasing running issues for a while before that which were cured with the new sensor.

The GSP as offered by eBay seems mostly a money making exercise for Pitney-Bowes as far as I could tell, mostly due to the markup on their customs fees as well as their shipping. It does seem to be a desperation only option. As said above, stuff from China seems to pass through with no issue regardless.

I'd suspect if you could find a more economical shipping option (likely slower than the GSP offering) that those could work out a good deal, if the seller was willing to use it.

The shipping o that one shows $233 to the uk, I would guess that's a GSP price. Which would give you the reassurance of not getting stung for import duty on top at least, but seems high even so.

The 7 seat versions of the Disco 2 should have air springs on the rear from new. I gather the difficulty with the ACE pipes where its fitted, is that they run ontop of the chassis so access to them is difficult (To the point of needing to remove bits of the body to replace some of them). And it can have rear air springs without ACE as well. Its very believeable that they suffer from corrosion, as the rest of the underside of them does as well as most here will already know.

I've had no problem with Rimmers, they are a bit pricier than the competition though. Depends what you want to some degree. LRdirect mainly, some stuff I've sourced from eBay as well, or Bearmach https://bearmach.com/ directly depending on price/availability.

I tend to avoid Island 4X4 as I've found sometimes you can't tell your getting Britpart bits from them.

John Craddock I had major issues getting any response from and took ages to get simple parts from them back earlier in the year, I know someone else who found the same issue so I've been avoiding them since that. Was for some shims for a series IIa diff in that case, and they were the only place that had the particular ones that were wanted.

Since you paid by Paypal, it might be worth disputing it with them, I've had luck with them in the past when eBay was being stupid (ordered 3 items from seller and only received one of them, sender just kept replying like a moron with a tracking number saying its been delivered even though I'd shown a photo of the package with the tracking number visible and clearly only big enough for a single item).
I'd agree personally they have provided you with a defective product, the shipping cost is clearly on them not you. The claim for shipping is clearly therefore their problem not yours.

Good warning for others though.

j_rov wrote:

20 times = a lot of coffee breaks for me! I always seem to buy a coffee when i fill up abroad!!!

How do you find the LPG filling stations? I've never just "noticed" them and my old map with them all on is well out of date/crap

Cheers

https://www.filllpg.co.uk/ lists lots of them, there is an app, though you have to manually install it now. Not 100% coverage of Europe.

See for detail about the app here > https://www.lpgforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=15962

https://www.mylpg.eu/ also has a lot of European coverage though the UK coverage is a bit hit and miss for correct locations. And also has an App

https://autogas.app/ has a lot of UK ones as well. Theres an App of sorts for that if you want it mobile, though its only really a shortcut to the website.